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This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly takes us through forgotten kirks and mountain passes, from the ruins of Historic Kilbride near Oban to the winding route from Fort William to Skye via Glenelg. Writer Graeme Johncock explores how chance discoveries can uncover whole chapters of Scottish history, where stories lie waiting by the roadside.

We’re celebrating the arrival of Issue 11, now ready for dispatch, featuring wild saunas in the Highlands, family adventures on Mull and Iona, and a look at Scotland’s oldest tailor, Stewart Christie & Co. There’s also a closer look at Skye Shepherd Huts in Heaste, where donkeys wander the croft and mornings start slow.

Our 2026 wall calendar is back too, with a new collection of photography from across the seasons, ready to hang for the year ahead.

As always, the quiz returns — and the answers wait at the end.

We’re delighted to let you know that Issue 11 of Hidden Scotland Magazine has now arrived and is ready for dispatch.

To give you a glimpse of what’s inside Issue 11: we explore wild saunas across Scotland, from Cowal to the Cairngorms; travel to Mull and Iona on a family break; highlight Arran’s green valleys; and retell the mythic tale of Schiehallion, the ‘Fairy Hill of the Caledonians’. You’ll also find an interview with architect Mary Arnold-Foster, an ode to the red squirrel, and a look into rural life with Hamish and Liberty Martin.

Elsewhere in the issue, we visit Stewart Christie & Co – Scotland’s oldest bespoke tailor – The Free Company restaurant with its farm-to-fork ethos, and Yard 97, a haven for architectural salvage and reclaimed furniture.

Artist Zanna Wilson shares local tips from Aberfeldy, Lucy Gillmore delves into restoration work on historic buildings, and Emily Rose Mawson explores six stunning Landmark Trust properties.

What’s in issue 11 Spotlight - All Fired Up – 10 Wild Saunas in Scotland

From Shetland’s windswept shores to the forests of Perthshire, Scotland’s new wave of wild saunas brings fire, salt air and stillness together. In Issue 11, writer Emily Rose Mawson travels the length of the country to find the best wood-fired escapes — from Haar Sauna on St Ninian’s Beach to Glen Dye’s woodland retreat. Each one tells a story of heat and weather, community and renewal, where you can step from cedar warmth straight into cold sea or mountain stream. A reminder that adventure here doesn’t always mean distance — sometimes it’s about slowing down and letting the steam rise.

Exploring With An Open Mind - Historic Kilbride

When it comes to exploring Scotland, wandering certainly doesn’t mean that you’re lost. There’s nothing wrong with meticulously planning an efficient itinerary, especially when time is against you, but that isn’t always the best way to explore. Sometimes you need to follow your instincts and let curiosity take over.

Pick a direction, have some interesting stops in mind, but always be prepared to chase a rainbow if you see one. Be free, be flexible and above all be adventurous. It can be scary, but some amazing things can be found on the road less travelled.

That was how I discovered Historic Kilbride, on a meandering journey down the hidden peninsulas of Argyll. These fingers of land protruding into western sea lochs hold some fascinating secrets, well off the usual tourist routes. This is unfiltered Scotland, away from crowded bus groups and queues for curated photography spots.

You don’t need to travel far around here to feel remote. Just a few miles from Oban, on my way to nowhere down leafy Lerags Glen, a small sign jumped out that made me hit the brakes and reverse for a closer look. All it said was Historic Kilbride.

The name Kilbride gives a clue to what might be found here, with ‘Kil’ almost always indicating the presence of a church. This Church of St Bride was first mentioned in a charter from King Alexander II in 1249 but is thought to date back to the time of the 6^th-century saint, if not even earlier. Kilbride has changed much since those early days and the ruined buildings we see today are 18^th-century replacements.

There are hundreds of gravestones for people from all walks of life, each one documented and many telling fascinating stories. Shifting populations meant the end for several small churches and this ancient holy site was abandoned in the 19^th century, left to be reclaimed by nature.

That could have easily been the end for Kilbride, swallowed by foliage and forgotten about forever like so many other historic sites. Fortunately, thanks to the vision and efforts of one man, that wasn’t allowed to happen. After Liam Griffin moved into a new home next to the ruins of Kilbride, he was inspired to save what he had discovered on his doorstep.

Most people would have seen it as a lost cause, just a jumble of stones and debris punctured by fallen trees and wildly overgrown shrubs. However, Liam saw through that mess to the stories buried within. Here was an opportunity to restore an important part of local heritage, but it wasn’t going to be easy. He needed every ounce of his enthusiasm for the relentless task of clearing, restoring and researching what would become known as Historic Kilbride.

Of course, Liam couldn’t have done this on his own. The charity Friends of Kilbride was set up to preserve this historic monument and promote it as a place of national importance. It’s taken time, money and an awful lot of dedication but the volunteers have made an enormous impact and Historic Kilbride is fast becoming an Argyll highlight.

It’s not just the peaceful setting or the beautiful, old walls that make Historic Kilbride worth visiting, it’s the stories there, waiting to be uncovered. I was fortunate enough to stumble upon the site while Liam was available and found myself being regaled with local legends and hidden histories. All in the tireless manner of somebody who loves what they do and relishes the chance to share it with the world.

Historic Kilbride is particularly special for the MacDougall Memorial Aisle and two of the largest grave slabs commemorate clan chief Iain Ciar MacDougall and his wife Mary of Sleat. In the early 18^th century, the couple were based at the ancient stronghold of Dunollie Castle just outside Oban.

When duty called, MacDougall took up arms to fight in the 1715 Jacobite uprising, leaving his young wife Mary to look after her new home. Unfortunately, the rising didn’t go well and MacDougall was forced on the run. In the years that followed, the chief made his name as a legendary warrior in Ireland before joining his fellow exiled Jacobites in France.

MacDougall returned to Scotland but while he had been adventuring abroad, things hadn’t gone well for his poor wife. Mary had been evicted from the castle to work like a commoner amongst her former servants. Her husband’s return came with an official pardon and the couple moved back to Dunollie Castle, later becoming the first burials in the MacDougall Memorial Aisle at Kilbride.

Scattered around the small hill are the graves of people less noble than Iain Ciar, but no less interesting. They include Johnie, a local Campbell gentleman from the 17th century who was shot in the chest with a pistol and left for dead in his 30s. Against all the odds, Johnie survived.

It seemed like a miracle, but he went on to live a full, happy life, fathering more than his fair share of children. Legend says that when Johnie finally passed away, they cut him open and discovered the old man had two hearts. One had been shot by the pistol, while the other carried on beating.

There’s even an interesting grave that appears to back the story up, uncovered and maintained by Historic Kilbride. Lying amongst the long grass, Johnie’s stone is carved with two hearts, a pistol and what might be his guardian angel.

Whether you believe the tale or not, it’s still a great story that brings somewhere like this to life and I never would have heard it if I hadn’t investigated a road sign on a whim. Historic Kilbride proved to me that some of the best stories can be found where you least expect them. So, the next time you’re looking for an adventure, remember to keep both your eyes and your mind open.

Reach the story online here.

Words by Graeme Johncock

On 12 October 1511, the Great Michael was launched from the newly founded dockyard at Newhaven on the Forth. Commissioned by King James IV, she was conceived not just as a warship but as a statement of Scotland’s maritime ambition. At approximately 240 feet in length and displacing around 1,000 tons, she was the largest ship afloat in Europe at the time.

Built under the supervision of Sir Andrew Wood and master shipwright Jacques Terrell, the Great Michael carried a formidable armament of 24 heavy guns, three basilisks, and dozens of smaller cannons. Her crew numbered several hundred, combining sailors, gunners, and marines.

Her construction drew materials from across Scotland as well as France and Norway, making her one of the most resource-intensive projects of James’s reign.

The Great Michael’s fate, however, echoed the turbulence of the era. After James IV’s death at Flodden in 1513, maintaining such a ship proved unsustainable. She was sold to the French crown in 1514 and eventually allowed to decline, yet she remains a powerful symbol of a time when Scotland dared to rival the great navies of Europe.

Skye Shepherd Huts

Located on a croft in Heaste on the Isle of Skye, Skye Shepherd Huts comprises two cosy huts where nature and creatures become part of your stay. Each hut comes with a double bed, wood-burning stove, hot water, electricity and creature comforts. Just outside, you’ll find Gilbert and George, the resident donkeys, often strolling through the paddock beside the huts. Guests are welcome to offer a carrot or simply watch them amble by. Shared facilities include a “Big Shed” lounge and kitchen, and your private bathroom is a short walk away. Quiet, grounded, and filled with character.

Find out more here.

From Fort William To Skye Via Glenelg

Lots of people visit the spectacular Isle of Skye every year. Most take the bridge there, many use the large boat from Mallaig, but I like to arrive in style on the tiny Glenelg ferry! It’s more than just a unique way to travel, it’s a slice of history itself and the journey to get there is one of the best in Scotland.

Cille Choirril Church
25 Minute Drive

Leaving north from Fort William, it’s a short detour to one of my favourite spots. Built in the 15^th century by a chief of Clan Cameron, the church at Cille Choirril has roots that stretch back almost a thousand years earlier.

Not only does it have an immense feeling of historical importance, but the view from the top of the hill is incredible. Best of all, you’ll probably have it to yourself!

Well of The Seven Heads
35 minute drive

On the banks of Loch Oich, an unusual obelisk marks a bloody episode of history. In the 17^th century, seven men murdered the chief of the MacDonalds of Keppoch, but Lord MacDonnell of Glengarry refused to do anything about it.

The chief’s kinsman Iain Lom MacDonald was made of sterner stuff, eventually getting revenge on the murderers. As he brought their heads to Glengarry, he stopped to wash them in a spring here which became known as the Well of the Seven Heads!

Invergarry Castle
5 minute drive

A short distance away, the ruins of Old Invergarry Castle stand in the driveway of a more modern hotel. You can’t get inside, but you can peer through the barriers to see where Iain Lom was heading. Bonnie Prince Charlie stayed here in 1746 in the days after the disastrous Battle of Culloden!

Battle Of Glenshiel Viewpoint
40 minute drive

Mountains soar on either side as you weave through the dramatic beauty of Glenshiel and it’s worth stopping at one of the viewpoints as you go. The layby marked with a crossed swords sign marks the site of the Battle of Glenshiel, the only major conflict of the 1719 Jacobite Rising. Hard to believe people could fight on the steep slopes above!

Ratagan Pass Viewpoint
15 minute drive

Turning off the main road to Skye, you’ll begin to climb over the Ratagan Pass so prepare for a steep, winding road! Make sure to stop at the top for an amazing view across Loch Duich to the Five Sisters of Kintail.

Legend says there were once seven daughters of the Chief of Kintail who lived here. The youngest two sailed away with Irish Princes who promised to send their brothers back to marry the other five. The remaining sisters waited so long, a wizard turned them into mountains so they would remain beautiful and admired until the Irishmen came for them!

Lunch At Glenelg Inn
15 minute drive

After descending into Glenelg, reward yourself with a delicious lunch at the Glenelg Inn. It’s a very traditional spot with incredible food and if it’s a chilly day then they might even have the fire blazing to warm you up.

Dun Telve & Dun Trodan Brochs
10 minute drive

Don’t rush straight for the ferry, there are two very good reasons to explore some of the glen first. Dun Telve and Dun Trodan are two of the best preserved brochs in Scotland. These are roughly 2000 year old stone towers, built entirely without mortar, with a staircase spiralling between and outer and inner wall.

We don’t know much about how brochs were used, but there aren’t many better places to imagine them coming back to life than right here.

Bernera Barracks
10 minute drive

If you wondered where much of the stone from the brochs went, then look no further than Bernera Barracks. Built in the 1700s to guard the main ferry crossing to Skye, this was a government base designed to defend against Jacobite risings. It’s in a hazardous state so you can only look in from the outside, but it’s a reminder that Glenelg wasn’t always considered off the beaten path!

Glenelg Ferry
10 minute drive

I’ve taken the Glenelg Ferry hundreds of times, but it never gets old. This is the last operating turntable ferry in Scotland, with space for around 6 cars but thankfully the crossing only takes around 10 minutes, so you rarely have to wait too long. Once loaded up, the entire platform with the cars on is spun around by hand to make sure the vehicles can drive off again!

Usually, the ferry dogs are running around helping with the ropes and there’s plenty of other wildlife to spot as you make the short crossing. Seals are common, seabirds even more so and I’ve even spotted eagles from time to time. Once you’re on the other side, it’s a winding road to the main road, but you’ve arrived in Skye in style!

For the full itineary click here

Our 2026 Calendar has arrived

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2026. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

Quiz Answers

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!