Issue 89

Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly

 

Sunday 20th April 2025

Corgarff Castle

Today's weekly takes approximately 11 minutes to read.

Hi 👋

We’re excited to bring you another edition of ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. As always, we hope you enjoy reading and find inspiration for your next adventure.

Enjoy this week’s edition, and have a fantastic Sunday!

We’re excited to let you know that Issue 10 is now available to order â€” and it’s being dispatched straight away. Click here to get your copy.

Have a great weekend.

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. This Week’s Quiz

  2. Issue 10 Spotlight - A Weekend Exploring Glasgow

  3. The Burning Of Corgarff Castle

  4. Did you know…

  5. Exploring Angus From The Mountain to the Sea - An Itinerary

  6. Accommodation Spotlight

  7. Our Spring Collection Has Arrived

  8. Quiz Answers

1.What is the name of the mound that Edinburgh castle sits on?

2.Which King of Scots is said to have hidden in a cave in the winter of 1306?

3.What is the mansion home of the Marquess of Bute called?

ISSUE 10 SPOTLIGHT - A WEEKEND EXPLORING GLASGOW: A LOCAL’S GUIDE

Fancy a weekend away to Glasgow? We highly recommend reading Karen Harvey's feature, which includes some of her top tips, before you go. Karen lives and works in the West End, she's the owner of two shops Hoos and inHoos, which are known for selling design led homeware along with a wide selection of other lovely things. Having grown up in Glasgow Karen knows some of the very best places to eat, drink, shop and spend time. Nothing beats a local's advice and this one is not to be missed.

The Burning Of Corgarff Castle

Corgarff Castle might seem isolated and lonely in remote Strathdon, but this little tower guards a vital route between Aberdeenshire and Speyside. Instantly recognisable with its pure white, star shaped wall, the castle holds over 400 years of stories that are almost as wild as the landscape itself. 

Built in the 16th century, Corgarff Castle has many different chapters. In 1746 it was an important Jacobite stronghold, then just 2 years later hosted a garrison of government troops tasked with suppressing rebel sympathisers. Soon after, the tower became a base to crack down on the area’s prolific illicit whisky trade. 

However, before any of that, Corgarff Castle saw its most dramatic episode take place while still a family home for the Forbes of Towie. The Forbes family was one of the most powerful forces in Aberdeenshire, but they certainly weren’t alone. For generations, they had fought for control of this important corner of Scotland with the equally influential Gordons. 

After the Scottish Reformation, the rift between the two sides grew even deeper. The Forbes had accepted the new Protestant religion while the Gordons remained staunchly Catholic. Minor squabbles were common amongst noble families, but in the conflict that followed Mary Queen of Scots’ abdication, these clans turned Aberdeenshire into a blood-soaked battleground. 

The Forbes men had some success against their rivals to begin with, but it didn’t last for long. They soon came up against Adam Gordon of Auchindoun who led the Gordons to victory at the Battle of Tillieangus in 1571. In the aftermath, Adam saw the chance to press home his advantage while the Forbes warriors were still recovering. 

His army quickly marched to Corgarff Castle and found the doors barred and the walls manned by women and children. If the Gordons thought the inhabitants would be scared into submission without any men there to defend them, then they were badly mistaken. Lord Forbes of Towie’s wife Lady Margaret Campbell was in charge and she was no pushover. 

Adam sent Captain Thomas Ker forward to reason with Margaret, demanding they open the gates and avoid any more bloodshed. She wasn’t looking to negotiate, so in response Margaret fired a warning shot from a pistol to show that she meant business. Whether it was intentional or not, that shot shattered one of Ker’s kneecaps and enraged the watching soldiers.

Adam Gordon was furious and with his blood up, ordered firewood and kindling to be piled around the walls. He wasn’t bluffing and in response to that one act of defiance, Corgarff Castle was soon up in flames. Margaret, along with almost everybody else inside, tragically perished in the blaze. 

Adam Gordon of Auchindoun got away without any official punishment, although his reputation never recovered. Much later, the story of the massacre would inspire a haunting ballad known as ‘Edom o’ Gordon’. It’s said that on a quiet night, the sound of the victims can still be heard around the castle, but then again, maybe that’s just the wind.

Story by Graeme Johncock

Did you know that it was once illegal to be a MacGregor?

Throughout history, of all the wild, warlike Highland clans, none were quite as fierce or as unruly as Clan MacGregor. Fighting with neighbours was an ordinary way of life, but by the early 1600s, the MacGregors went a step too far. After one battle too many, King James VI took the dramatic step of outlawing their name entirely. That meant, if you found somebody going by the name MacGregor, then you could legally kill them. Even the most famous clan member, Rob Roy MacGregor, signed his letters using his mother’s Campbell surname. The Act of Parliament was finally revoked in 1774, after an incredible 171 years! If you visit the grave of Rob Roy, then you can see an engraved quote that encapsulates this brutal chapter of clan history perfectly – MacGregor Despite Them.

 

Exploring Angus From The Mountain to the Sea - An Itinerary

Although easily accessible on Scotland’s east coast, the region of Angus doesn’t get nearly enough attention. You can find castles and glens, ancient history and natural beauty all within easy reach. I have family there, so maybe I’m biased, but I think one of the best daytrips in Scotland takes you through Angus, all the way from the mountains to the sea.

Glenesk Folk Museum

Start your trip by heading towards the Cairngorms National Park into Glen Esk and its amazing wee folk museum. Set up in the 1950s by Greta Michie, a teacher from the glen, it tells the story of rural life in Angus. There are everyday items from the past alongside more unusual ones like Jacobite swords, historic bagpipes and even an ostrich egg! It’s the perfect place to learn about the local area and hear stories of some the characters that once lived here.

Loch Lee
20 Minute Drive

At the very end of Glen Esk, a short walk takes you past the towering ruin of Invermark Castle. It once guarded against Cateran raiders who used these passes to steal cattle before disappearing back into the mountains. Eventually, you’ll come to Loch Lee with the picturesque St Drostan’s Church right on its banks. A church has stood on this very spot for almost 1500 years and it’s somewhere I never tire of, where the peace and history swallows you up.

Edzell Castle
40 Minute Drive

Currently open at weekends after being closed for the last few years, Edzell Castle is a stunning spot with vibrant red stone walls. This was once home to the Lindsay Earls of Crawford, one of the most powerful families in Scotland. As well as being packed with history, the Great Garden is a stunning recreation of the Lindsay’s Renaissance creation. Just keep your eyes and ears open for the White Lady ghost who’s been known to haunt the ruins.

Lunch at Sinclair’s Larder
5 Minute Drive

In the nearby village of Edzell, grab a delicious, seasonal lunch at Sinclair’s Larder followed by one of their famous cakes!

Aberlemno Pictish Stones
20 Minute Drive

While Angus has a lot to offer, there’s one thing it does better than anywhere else – Pictish Stones. There are plenty in local museums, but my favourites stand out in the open at Aberlemno. Carved around 1300 years ago, it’s an incredible visual piece of history. You’ll find three stones alongside the road by Aberlemno Village Hall of varying ages. They show Christian crosses, figures hunting, mysterious Pictish shapes and even a writhing serpent. My favourite of the stones stands just a few hundred metres away in Aberlemno churchyard. It’s a huge slab displaying a scene full of warriors fighting what we think is the Battle of Dun Nechtain from 685AD. It was a great victory for the Picts over the Northumbrians and definitely worthy of a commemoration like this.

Arbroath Abbey
25 Minute Drive

Finally reaching the coast at Arbroath, this is a place integral to Scottish history but still off the usual beaten track. The Abbey was founded by William the Lion in 1178 and that King of Scots is buried where the high altar once stood, marked by a modern slab. However, the most important event linked with the Abbey took place in 1320 with the signing of the Declaration of Arbroath. This letter from the Barons of Scotland to the Pope demanded that he recognise Scotland’s continued independence and explained why Robert the Bruce was the rightful King. The visitor centre at Arbroath Abbey explains the story perfectly with interactive displays and audio-visual demonstrations. It’s one of the must visit sites for lovers of Scottish history!

Arbroath Harbour
5 Minute Drive 

Arbroath is a colourful town with the historic harbour at its heart. Walk past stacks of creels and bobbing fishing boats to the Signal Tower Museum, built to communicate with the Bell Rock Lighthouse 11 miles out at sea. Constructed 200 years ago, the only means of communication were flags and telescopes! It also tells the story of the Arbroath Smokie, a local delicacy that can only be made within a few miles of the town. Pairs of gutted haddocks are hung over a woodfire in specially made barrels to smoke until they take on an almost sweet, smoky taste. No trip to Arbroath is complete without trying a Smokie and there are a number of producers around the town. I usually head to the bright purple C Lyons shop near the harbour. If you’re not sure about picking the fish from the bones, then I’d recommend trying a Smokie Pie instead!

This itineary was written by Graeme Johncock 
Greame has recently written a book called ‘Scotland's Stories by Graeme Johncock’ Grab a copy here.

Spring Dinners at Baern

If you’re anywhere near the East Neuk over the next few weeks, Baern is one to have on your radar. The award-winning bakery and café, tucked inside Bowhouse near St Monans, is hosting a short run of Spring Dinners — a relaxed, seasonal series shaped by what’s growing, what’s grazing, and what’s being gathered along the coast.

Led by Hazel Powell and Giacomo Pesce, Baern’s approach to food is thoughtful but unfussy. The Spring menu is à la carte, with starters, mains, desserts and a cheese course. Ingredients are sourced from familiar names in the area — East Neuk Market Garden, Butchery at Bowhouse, David Lowrie — and the rest is foraged nearby.

There’s a small, hand-picked drinks list too. You’ll find natural wines from L’art du Vin, beer from Futtle, cider from Aeble, and soft drinks made in-house by the team at Baern.

The dinners run across three Friday evenings — 19th and 26th April, and 3rd May — with tables available from 6.30 to 8.30pm. Booking is essential and they’re expecting these to fill quickly.

To book, email [email protected] with your name, preferred time, and number of guests.

Eagle Brae

Built in 2013, the ten cabins at Eagle Brae don't try to hide what they are. Western Red Cedar logs from British Columbia form their walls and bones, chosen because they last ages and naturally fight off fire. Look up and you'll spot living grass roofs that keep things cool in summer and warm in winter - plus they make these cabins sink right into the hillside rather than stick out like sore thumbs.

Step inside and the mix gets interesting. The wooden panels aren't plain - they're covered in hand-carved wildlife scenes, Celtic knots and old Pictish symbols, all made by craftspeople in the Indian Himalayas.

Some cabins (Aquila, Ardea and Cinclus) include private saunas - brilliant after a day walking the hills. For couples, the smaller cabins like Parus and Strix sleep just two but still feel roomy. Families or groups can spread out in the larger ones that sleep up to six.

The setting is what sells this place. Some cabins look down on the River Glass glinting in the sun, others face private ponds where ducks paddle about. Red deer wander right up to the wooden decks, and if you're lucky, golden eagles circle overhead (hence the name).

You can fish nearby rivers, try dog sledding when snow falls, shoot clay pigeons, or just sink into a sofa and watch the light change across mountains that haven't changed in thousands of years.

Springtime Offer - 10% off our shop products this weekend only.

We’ve just updated the Hidden Scotland shop with our new spring product drop. You’ll find work from illustrator David Fleck and artist Phoebe Roze, along with a wider range of gift cards and books. New titles include Café Canna and A Year in My Shetland Garden.

For 10% off use code SPRING

Assynt Deer by Simon Hird

Quiz Answers

  1. Castle Rock

  2. Robert the Bruce

  3. Mount Stuart

Issue 10 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 10.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

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