Hi 👋

This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly brings together ancient legends, west coast journeys, and a date that marks one of the most moving moments in modern Scottish history.

We begin in the Cairngorms, where the last remnants of the Great Caledonian Forest still stand. An old tale tells of a fearsome hag who tried to burn it all down, flying through the sky in a cloud of smoke. Only a clever warrior, armed with a spear and a plan, could bring her down.

Further west, Graeme Johncock shares his latest island travels. From early starts at the Fairy Pools to finally landing on Staffa after three failed attempts, his route takes in Skye, Mull, Ulva, and Iona. Along the way are stories of giants, forgotten churches, and windswept beauty in quieter corners.

We’re also marking 29 August 1930, the day the last boat left St Kilda. The islanders had chosen to leave, but that didn’t make it easy. Fires were banked, doors left open, and their home disappeared into the mist behind them. It was the end of a way of life, and the beginning of something unknown.

And if you’re thinking about a future escape, we’ve gathered ten of Scotland’s most design-led places to stay. These are cabins and cottages with thought behind them, set in landscapes worth slowing down for.

There’s also a quiz, as always, along with a few curious facts and stories you might not have heard before.

Thanks for reading, and for being part of the Hidden Scotland community.

Connell & The Thunder Hag

Only a small amount of the Great Caledonian Forest survives to this day, much of it in the safety of the Cairngorms National Park. It’s said that a long time ago, trees reached many of the peaks of the mountains but forestry and agriculture eventually took their toll.

In one old story, the Caledonian Forest was destroyed by something much more unnatural than humans. Some called her a witch, others said she was an ancient hag which served the deity known as the Cailleach. What they all agreed upon was that this supernatural figure wanted to destroy all of Scotland’s beautiful, thick woodland.

Every summer, she would fly through the sky disguised by thick, black clouds while throwing fire down amongst the trees of the Caledonian Forest. She loved nothing more than being feared and rejoiced in the sounds of the people below her, screaming in terror at the destruction of her flames.

The people wished that there was something they could do about the regular attacks, to save them from burning down the entire forest and their homes along with it. They needed to get rid of the witch but had no idea where to start. As long as she remained hidden in her cloud, there was no hope of attacking her.

Up stepped a warrior who wasn't just brave, but smart as well. He told the people that he would soon solve their problem, but they had to trust him completely. No matter what they heard, they were to let him finish his task. Desperate times called for desperate measures and they agreed without hesitation.

The warrior immediately got to work, rounding up all of the lambs, foals, kids and calves, then separating them from their mothers. Before long, the young animals started crying out in hunger and the adults started to wail back in response. That sound got louder and louder, creating a racket so horrendous that it could make ears bleed. All the while, the warrior was waiting patiently with his spear on top of the Cairngorm mountains.

When the witch swooped in, hidden by her cloud and ready to start throwing fire, she heard the awful crying of the animals below. She was furious, wondering what could possibly be scaring the animals more than she ever had! Curiosity got the better of her and she poked her head out of her protective cover to get a better look.

The warrior saw his chance. Launching his spear high, he struck the witch right between the eyes. Immediately, her black cloud lost its menace and suddenly it poured with rain. Any small fires left were smothered and what was left of the Great Caledonian Forest had been saved.

Words by Graeme Johncock

On This Day in 1930: The Last Boat Leaves St Kilda

On 29 August 1930, the last boat left St Kilda carrying 36 islanders who had chosen to leave their home for good. This is the story of that day, and the quiet strength behind it. The beautiful photography throughout the piece is by Scottish travel photographer Ali Horne.

On 29 August 1930, the last 36 residents of St Kilda left their island home for good. Life on the remote archipelago had become unsustainable. Crops failed, young people left, and illness struck too far from help. They asked to be evacuated. On the morning they sailed, Bibles were left open on the tables, fires banked, and doors left unlocked. As the Harebell pulled away, the islanders watched their home disappear into the mist. They had survived for centuries on cliffs and seabirds, but chose to leave with dignity rather than fade away. St Kilda was never lived in again.

Read the full story here.

Island Adventures On The West Coast

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

August has seen me back on the road almost constantly, leading small tours around Scotland. I take people all over the country, but there are some places that are often high on visitor’s agenda. More than anything, I get asked about the west coast islands.

It’s not surprising really, there’s jaw-dropping natural beauty to be found there along with incredible tales of history and folklore. On top of all that, the narrow, winding roads aren’t suited to inexperienced drivers!

Last year, I seemed to be constantly on the Isle of Skye, but this month saw only my second trip there in 2025. The popular spots are as busy as ever, but it’s not impossible to avoid the crowds if you know what you’re doing. We made sure to head to the Fairy Pools first thing, arriving at 9am and returning just as the car park was beginning to fill up.

There are plenty of quieter, unappreciated sites around Skye as well, like Trumpan Church. The views from this ruin are amazing and its history typically tragic. In revenge for a massacre on the Isle of Eigg, the MacDonalds burned Trumpan Church down, with the MacLeods then defeating them in the Battle of the Spoiling Dyke on the beach below!

Not every quiet spot on the island is associated with death and destruction though. To get some peace from the busy streets of Portree, we walked the Scorrybreac route to the McNicol memorial. There’s a waterfall, spectacular views and a reminder of one of Skye’s often forgotten clans.

That wasn’t the only island I explored this month, I had back to back trips to Mull planned. While not quite as big as Skye, it’s every bit as beautiful and much quieter. It also offers a chance to visit several other islands and I racked up 3 of them in just a couple of days!

First off, I spent an afternoon on Ulva which was my first return trip for a couple of years. Calling the ferry involves sliding a wooden panel to red so the ferrymaster knows he has some customers waiting for collection. There aren’t a lot of “attractions”, but it’s a great place to wander, eat delicious seafood and any money spent supports an amazing community project.

The next island ticked off was one I’ve failed to reach three times before – Staffa. Famous for its hexagonal basalt columns and the enormous Fingal’s Cave, the weather had been too poor to land on previous trips, but I finally set foot on this natural wonder!

An hour just isn’t enough time, but I managed to explore the cave said to have been home to the Scottish giant Benandonner. He built a causeway to Ireland to fight the Gaelic hero Fingal but retreated after being tricked into thinking his opponent was far larger than he really was!

After a little bit of time wandering the grassy top of this wee lump, it’s amazing to think that families once lived and farmed here. There wasn’t a lot of arable space and it must have been a tough life, especially when the storms came. The boat trip dropped us off on Iona on the way back, ticking off our third island.

This sacred isle is somewhere I’m very familiar with, once home to St Columba’s monastery and the resting place of kings and clan chiefs. It’s somewhere that I’ll never get tired of visiting and I know that I’ll definitely be back there a few more times this year.

You can read more of Graeme Johncock’s stories and itineraries over on our site — including his latest travel guides, historical insights, and curious tales from across Scotland.

Modern Stays, Wild Places: Ten Design-Led Escapes in Scotland

A curated collection of architect-designed cabins and contemporary holiday homes across Scotland—each offering a thoughtful balance of comfort, design, and connection to the surrounding landscape.

Kabn, Loch Fyne

Kabn sits above Loch Fyne with two architect-designed cabins, each set on its own plot with uninterrupted views. Built off-grid, they run on solar and feel sharp, compact, and well considered. Inside, the finish is clean and natural. Outside, there’s a firepit, a trail to the shore, and peace and quiet.

View more

Borradill, Ardnamurchan

Borradill sits in 25 acres of ancient woodland above Loch Sunart, with two timber cabins—The House and The Cottage—each facing the water through trees. Interiors mix Hebridean and Scandinavian detail, with books, textiles, and quiet corners. Trails lead through oak woods and burns to rope swings and hidden clearings.

View more

The Cartshed

Set against rising ground on the edge of the Pentlands, The Cartshed offers space, warmth, and a clear view west. It’s part of a quiet estate just outside the city. The design is minimal but useful, with walks in every direction.

View more

Glen Dye Cabins and Cottages

Tucked into the woods of Aberdeenshire, Glen Dye is a private estate reimagined for slow days and good company. At its heart is North Lodge, a restored 1890s cottage on the banks of the River Dye. Guests stay here with exclusive use of the nearby River Cabin, a wood-fired hot tub, and access to a forest sauna, BYOB pub, and miles of walking trails. It feels remote but never rough, with thoughtful design, generous touches, and plenty of space to unwind. Whether it’s for long lunches outside or fireside evenings in, Glen Dye makes room for time well spent.

View more

The Lookout

Set just behind the dunes in North Berwick, The Lookout is a timber-clad beach house with open views to Bass Rock. It’s simple, well-built, and shaped around the coast. Inside is calm and functional. Outside, it’s all sky, sea, and wind.

View more

Vriskaig

Vriskaig is a sleek, self-contained suite on the edge of Portree, looking across the loch to the Cuillins. It’s modern but warm, with a private deck, hot tub, and deep bath placed for the view. Breakfast is just up the hill. The Scorrybreac Trail starts at your door.

View more

Loch Venachar Lodges

Set close to the water, Loch Venachar Lodges are timber-built and angled for uninterrupted loch views. Interiors are clean and practical, with underfloor heating, a log burner, a proper kitchen, and enough space for a couple or small family. Trails start at the door, with forest and loch in view.

View more

View the full article here.

Read the Full Back Catalogue of Hidden Scotland Magazine Online

With a Hidden Scotland Membership, you can now read the full back catalogue of Hidden Scotland Magazine online. From Issue One to the latest release, every edition is available in full. That means hundreds of pages of in-depth travel features, historical deep-dives, local interviews, and carefully curated recommendations—ready to explore at your own pace.

Each issue is designed to immerse you in a different part of Scotland. You’ll find long reads on remote islands, insider tips from local makers, hidden walking routes, and the kind of insight that comes from real connection to place. Whether you’re planning your next trip or just dreaming from home, the full collection is now just a click away.

Members get unlimited access to all digital editions, plus exclusive travel guides, themed itineraries, and new content each week.

Join today to unlock it all.

Quiz Answers

Issue 10 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 10.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!