Issue 86

Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly

 

Sunday 30th March 2025

Eilean Donan Castle

Today's weekly takes approximately 12 minutes to read.

Hi 👋

We’re excited to bring you another edition of ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. As always, we hope you enjoy reading and find inspiration for your next adventure.

This is the last chance to pre-order Issue 10! click here to find out more

Each pre-order is wrapped by hand with a bookmark and print included. Available for a limited time only.

Enjoy this week’s edition, and have a fantastic Sunday!

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. This Week’s Quiz

  2. Issue 10 has arrived! Last chance to order.

  3. Eilean Donan And The Legend Of The Birds

  4. Did you know…

  5. Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

  6. Come celebrate with us in Aberdeenshire

  7. Hidden Scotland Presents: A Folklore Inspired Papercutting Workshop with Emily Hogarth

  8. What Happened to the Picts?

  9. Quiz Answers

1.Who was the mother of King James VI?

2.Which region sits at the far northeast of the Scottish mainland?

3.Which town’s name means Port of the king in Gaelic?

Issue 10 has arrived! Last Chance to pre-order.

It gives us great pleasure to share that our tenth issue has just arrived from the printers in Glasgow. If you haven’t ordered your copy yet, Monday is the final day for pre-orders. We will begin shipping next week, and every pre-order comes with a free bookmark, an A5 print, and is carefully wrapped in tissue.

All pre-orders will come with:

→ Neidpath Castle bookmark
→ A5 print of the front cover image

Each magazine is wrapped by hand with bookmark and print included. Available for a limited time only.

If you are a subscriber to Hidden Scotland magazine, then your order will also arrive with the bookmark and print.

We hope that you enjoy issue 10 and as always, thank you for your continued support.

We will begin shipping from Scotland early April.

Eilean Donan And The Legend Of The Birds

Eilean Donan is one of the most easily recognised castles in Scotland. The building open to visitors today is actually a romantic reconstruction, less than 100 years old but the story behind the founder of the castle is much, much older.

There is an old Scottish legend that any newborn child who takes their first drink from the skull of a raven will be granted a special power. One clan chief from Kintail decided to prove this was all superstitious nonsense. He used his firstborn son as the test subject and for years everything seemed to be completely normal. Then one day to his father's surprise, the boy was found conversing with the birds around their home in a strange language.

The chief had taken great delight in proving the legend false so he couldn’t just admit he was wrong now. The relationship grew strained between the two as he tried to ignore his son's gift out of stubbornness. Eventually, when the screeching around the great hall was too much for the chief to handle, he demanded to know what the birds were saying.

The son replied that he wasn’t going to like the answer. Still the father demanded to know and so the bird’s message was translated. They were repeating a prophecy over and over that the day would come when the father would wait on the son in this very hall. In a fit of rage, the arrogant chief cast his son out and told him to never come back.

The gifted young man took a small boat and travelled to continental Europe. He used his gift to make a name for himself and was handsomely rewarded for his deeds. In France he found the King’s household in turmoil over a large and noisy flock of sparrows. The Scot was able to negotiate a peace amongst the birds and in return for the peace and quiet, the King granted him a large ship with a loyal crew. Next, he discovered a castle plagued by rats but where the birds could not help him, he gifted his ship’s cat. The lord of the castle was so thankful that the Scot sailed off with a chest full of gold.

Many years had passed, and the chief’s son had grown into a wealthy and powerful man by the time that he returned to his father's home. He was barely recognisable as the young boy who had been cast out. Ever eager to impress somebody of importance, the old chieftain rushed to welcome the newcomer. Serving his distinguished guest with food and drink from his own hands, the chief didn’t realise he was fulfilling the very prophecy he had been so enraged by.

The news of the chief’s son had spread and he was summoned to pay homage to the Scottish King. When King Alexander discovered for himself the wisdom his guest had gathered on his travels, he knew this was the perfect person to protect Kintail from the increasing Norse raids. He was commanded to build a strong fortress on Eilean Donan and use his gifts in its defence, becoming the first Chief of Clan Matheson.

Did you know Perth was once known as St Johns Town?

Perth is one of the smallest cities in Scotland, but also one of the most historic and considered a de facto capital of the country. However, while its name has always officially been Perth, the town was once known by another name.

For most the medieval period, right up to the 1600s, Perth was known simply as St John’s Town. The local church was dedicated to St John the Baptist and predated most of the burgh, with the street layout growing around the old building. It’s a historical quirk that is still remembered today by the name of the local football team – St Johnstone!

 

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Spring is definitely in the air in Scotland and as I type this, daffodils are blooming and the sunshine feels surprisingly warm. I’m almost scared that I’ve just jinxed it and we’ll be hit by snow next week!

With warmer weather comes more opportunities to explore and I was lucky enough to enjoy some pretty incredible trips over the last month. Top of that list by a longshot was the unique experience of flying to the Isle of Barra in the Outer Hebrides. It’s the only commercial airport in the world that has a beach for a runway!

Even with the improved weather, I was nervous. Last year our trip was cancelled due to fog on Barra which meant the pilot wouldn’t be able to see the beach to land on. On that occasion, I had a backup plan and we had a brilliant night on Bute instead. Luckily, this time the flight went ahead and we made it safely onto the island.

It’s an extraordinary place, with history, culture and scenery around every corner. It’s one of the few places in Scotland that you’ll still hear Gaelic being spoken in everyday life and I quickly discovered that mine wasn’t up to scratch!

For history, the amazing Cille Bharra has been a religious site for around 1300 years. It’s dedicated to St Barr, the man that Barra is thought to be named after and inside the North Chapel are some amazing carved gravestones.

At the main town Castlebay, Kisimul Castle has been clinging to a rock surrounded by water since the 15th century. Once home to the chiefs of Clan MacNeil, it’s sadly still closed for conservation works. On the bright side, that just gives me an excuse to get back to Barra in the future.

The highlight of the trip was actually on a different island, across a causeway in Vatersay. Famous for its twin beaches and iconic dilapidated gate, the white sand, turquoise water and beautiful scenery have to be seen to be believed. It might look perfect for a swim, but the temperature wasn’t exactly tropical, so we settled for a sheltered spot out of the wind to just sit and listen to the waves crashing.

Barra might have been the big trip from the last month, but there were some other firsts. A trip around my home region of Fife took me to the village of Culross, which isn’t a new place for me, but there was something special to see. It’s the first time that I was able to get inside the parish church.

That doesn’t sound too exciting, but it’s where you’ll find the tomb of Sir George Bruce and his wife Margaret. It’s thanks to George and his innovative undersea coal mining techniques that Culross grew into a wealthy burgh around the beginning of the 1600s.

His alabaster tomb is scarily lifelike and it felt like his eyes were going to suddenly open at any second. While most visitors to Culross focus on the palace and mercat cross, both featuring prominently in Outlander, I’d highly recommend the steep walk up the hill. The church housing George’s remains is actually part of the old medieval abbey and those ruins can be explored for free.

It made March an interesting month, travelling close to home and to the complete opposite end of the country. Both of those brought first-time experiences and it just goes to show that no matter how much you explore Scotland, there’s always something new to see!

Written by Graeme Johncock Greame has recently written a book called ‘Scotland's Stories by Graeme Johncock’ Grab a copy here.

Come celebrate with us in Aberdeenshire

Join us for a Spring Celebration at The Milton of Crathes!

We’re thrilled to invite you to our Spring Celebration at The Milton of Crathes in Aberdeenshire on Saturday 12th & Sunday 13th April (10:00 AM – 4:00 PM). This special weekend marks not only the return of spring but also a major milestone for Hidden Scotland magazine—our 10th issue!

As an independent publication, reaching this achievement is a moment we’re incredibly proud of, and we’d love to share it with you. Expect a vibrant gathering filled with local charm, community spirit, and plenty of surprises.

Click through to discover all the exciting activities in store!

Hidden Scotland Presents: A Folklore Inspired Papercutting Workshop with Emily Hogarth

If you’re a fan of Hidden Scotland magazine, you’ll likely know our beloved Folklore, Myths & Legends feature, where writer and Scottish storyteller Graeme Johncock brings to life some of Scotland’s most fascinating tales. Each story is beautifully illustrated by Emily Hogarth, a renowned Scottish artist celebrated for her intricate papercut designs.

We’re delighted to announce that Emily will be joining us on Saturday, 12th April, to host a papercutting workshop in The Old Sawmill & Bothy at the Milton of Crathes in Aberdeenshire, during the Milton of Crathes Spring Celebration weekend. During this 2-hour workshop, Emily will introduce you to the art of papercutting, share insights into her work, and discuss her collaborations with Hidden Scotland magazine.

She’ll guide you step-by-step as you create your own papercut masterpiece, with a Scottish theme to inspire you—though you’re free to let your creativity run wild!

What Happened to the Picts?

Scotland has a fascinating history. From mysterious ancient megaliths to bloody clan feuds, there are plenty of chapters to get lost in. There’s one period with more unanswered questions than most though, surrounding a population who became known as Europe’s Lost People. They were the Picts, with a territory that once stretched from the northern isles to Fife.

They left behind intricately carved stones full of indecipherable symbols to remind us of their presence but very little else. Their language has disappeared, their culture been forgotten and by the 10th century no more iconic carvings were being created. So, what happened to the Picts? 

Before searching for their fate, it’s important to find out who the Picts were. Unfortunately, because they didn’t leave us any written evidence, almost everything we know about Scotland’s most mysterious inhabitants comes from what others have written about them and that includes their name.

Pict comes from the Roman word “Picti” meaning painted people, believed to be a derogatory term used by soldiers for the people they encountered in the north of Britain. It was a way of provoking thoughts of wild and savage barbarians, Imperial propaganda at its best. The collection of tribes that the Romans faced certainly wouldn’t have referred to themselves as Picts, but by the 4th century a more cohesive unit appeared and the Pictish Era had begun. 

Scotland has an unrivalled ability to fill any historical gaps with stories. Legend attributes the origins of the Picts to a King called Cruithne who ruled Pictland for 100 years. As his reign was coming to an end, he split the enormous Kingdom between his seven sons and their names can still be found in several of the regions we know today.

Some are easily identified, such as Fib now known as Fife, Cait as Caithness or Fotla as Atholl, but Fortrenn, Cirig, Fidach and Ce are slightly harder to place. The myth of all these Pictish territories springing from a solitary figure shows an attempt to identify the Picts and those who came after them as a unified people. 

The most enduring evidence the Picts left behind are dozens of intricately carved symbol stones found scattered across Scotland. Early examples known as Class 1 stones appear as rough boulders, displaying symbols such as Z-rods, crescents, mirrors and beasts. The meanings behind the icons are still being debated today. 

Before long, Christianity spread around Pictland and their art began changing to reflect that. The Tarbat Discovery Centre tells the story behind a monastery at Portmahomack, dating from around 550AD and full of Pictish stones carved with Christian symbols. Found nearby, the Shandwick Stone and reproduction of the Hilton of Cadboll Stone are incredible examples of what are known as Class 2 stones, with Pictish symbols covering one face and an enormous Celtic Cross on the reverse.

Some of these carved stones were designed to tell a story. In Aberlemno Kirkyard, mysterious “Pictish Beasts” flank an enormous cross, while on the reverse, a Z-rod and Crescent stand above a battle scene. It’s believed this commemorates the Pictish victory over an invading Northumbrian army at the Battle of Dun Nechtain.

Finally, towards the end of the Pictish era, we find Class 3 stones without any sign of pagan symbolism, evidence of a drastic shift in culture. Each stone is covered in purely Christian iconography, although that doesn’t make them any less impressive. One of these later creations, Sueno’s Stone in Forres is a gargantuan 6.5 metres tall, weighing over 7 tonnes. On the other side of the prominent cross, we find a brutal scene full of warriors and piles of decapitated heads.

These battle scenes are an important reminder that the Picts weren’t the only people who called what we now know as Scotland home. As well as constant pressure from Northumbrians, the independent Kingdom of Strathclyde stood to the southwest and the Scots of Dalriada were growing in power to the west.

Hilton of Cadboll

Hilton of Cadboll Stone Replica

The most important location in Dalriada was at Dunadd Hill in Argyll, the centre of a Kingdom that stretched along the west coast of Scotland and across the Irish sea. This was where their Kings were crowned, with a footprint carved into stone believed to be part of ancient inauguration ceremonies. It wasn’t an impregnable fortress though and in the 8th century, the Pictish King Angus won a great battle and breached Dunadd’s walls.

Conflict between the Picts and the Scots was a regular occurrence, but as the centuries passed, so was marriage. Many of the later Kings could boast a parent from both sides of the border and suggests these two cultures were beginning to assimilate. There would soon be a bigger problem for both of them to deal with, as the middle of the Pictish era saw the beginning of the Viking Age.

These Scandinavians arrived with a bang, appearing out of nowhere to slaughter and plunder, then sailing away before anybody could react. The Picts lost ground in the north and the monastery at Portmahomack saw those beautiful Pictish crosses smashed into pieces. In the west, the islands inhabited by Scots were particularly vulnerable to attacks from longships.

This new threat was squeezing every area of the Scottish coast, not just the Picts and Scots but the Britons of Strathclyde as well. In the 9th century, they overcame the fortress on Dumbarton Rock and now these Vikings intended to stay. Amongst the incredible collection of carved Govan stones are five enormous hogbacks – graveslabs shaped like Scandinavian longhouses.

In 839, an enormous Viking army succeeded in defeating a joint force of Picts and Scots, killing both Kings in the process. Kenneth MacAlpine soon became ruler of the Scots of Dalriada and saw an opportunity to take advantage of his weakened neighbours to the east. The historical records are murky, but it’s said that Kenneth won a huge battle and declared himself as also King of the Picts.

Centuries after his reign, in an attempt to answer the question of what happened to the Picts, a legend arose known as the Treachery of MacAlpine. It claims that the new King invited all the Pictish nobility to a feast at Scone to heal old wounds. It was a trap. Once the Picts were drunk, Kenneth’s men pulled pins out of their benches, causing them to fall into pits of deadly spikes! 

In reality, the Pictish people weren’t simply destroyed in one fell swoop and Kenneth’s immediate successors even called themselves Kings of the Picts. However, in the background things were changing. With the power of the written word and the Gaelic Church, the Scots of Dalriada were becoming dominant in this new unified Kingdom known as Alba.

The monks writing the chronicles had no need to use the word Pict anymore and it suddenly stops appearing in the records. It seemed as if the Picts had just disappeared overnight when really, they had merged into a larger nation which could better defend itself. 

We may have lost the knowledge of their language, culture and symbols, but the Picts didn’t go anywhere. They were right at the heart of a united Scotland and their descendants are still here.

words - Graeme Johncock & photography - Simon Hird & Jack Cairney

Quiz Answers

  1. Mary Queen of Scots

  2. Caithness

  3. Portree

Issue 10 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 10.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

Did you like today's email?

How can we improve? leave your feedback in the next step.

Login or Subscribe to participate in polls.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!