Issue 05

The Hidden Scotland Weekly

Sunday 18 June 2023
Today's weekly takes approx. 10 minutes to read.

Hi 👋

We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

As always we welcome you to provide feedback, you can find this at the bottom of the email.

Have a great Sunday!

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. Scotland’s Weekly Wonders

  2. The Laird of Udny’s Fool

  3. This Week’s Quiz

  4. Cottage Stays in Scotland

  5. A Trip Through Time

  6. Food & Drink

  7. Exploring the Deeside Way: An interview with Kelly Morrison

  8. Win a Lifetime Subscription

Lochranza Castle

Isle of Arran

Lochranza Castle, nestled on a narrow peninsula in the tranquil Loch Ranza, mesmerizes with its aged beauty and intricate historical tapestry. Appearing initially as a typical Scottish L-plan tower house from the 1500s, the castle's story unfurls layers deep into the medieval period. Its unique architectural lineage reveals a rare hall-house foundation, constructed in the 1200s by the influential MacSween family. Over time, it underwent significant transformations, bearing silent witness to the political and royal maneuverings of the time. Today, Lochranza Castle stands as a fascinating relic, offering a captivating journey into Scotland's rich past.

Bow Fiddle Rock

Portknockie

Dramatically rising from Scotland's wild waters, the Bow Fiddle Rock is a sight that imbues every journey to Portknockie with a cinematic grandeur. Its silhouette, curiously echoing the arc of a violin bow, is a testament to the creative prowess of nature's forces. As an ever-busy aviary, it's an ornithologist’s dream come true, the rocky stage for a spectacle of wings and songs. Immerse yourself in the stories woven by locals, of folklore and moonlit nights, enhancing its allure. Undeniably, Bow Fiddle Rock is not just a geological anomaly but an intoxicatingly beautiful symphony of nature, folklore, and history.

Spar Cave

Isle of Skye

Spar Cave, a luminous cavern on Isle of Skye, Scotland, is a unique marvel steeped in local lore and literary history, albeit difficult to access. Visitors must navigate a rocky, moss-covered canyon only accessible around low tide. The cave, named Slochd Altrimen ("Nursing Cave" in Gaelic), is linked to a tale of a princess hiding her child, born out of a forbidden love, in the cave. The 19th-century saw the cave gain tourist interest, partly due to Sir Walter Scott's poem, 'The Lord of the Isles,' inspired by his visit. Despite its past popularity and enchanting calcite formations, it's largely forgotten today, inviting only the truly adventurous.

Scottish Proverb of the Week

“Dinnae teach yer Granny tae suck eggs” – Don’t try and teach somebody something they already know well

 

 

The Laird of Udny’s Fool

Jamie Fleeman is a fascinating Aberdeenshire character, hired by the Laird of Udny as his personal fool. He might have been paid to act like a jester but he was no idiot, in fact, Jamie had razor-sharp wit and his retorts and phrases were legendary. One well-to-do gentleman who looked down his nose at something Jamie said in town asked, "Who's fool are you?" Quick as a flash he replied, "I'm the Laird of Udny's fool. And who's fool are you?"

Jamie wasn't just a joker. When an accidental fire ripped through Knockhall Castle in 1734, the Udny family were all sound asleep inside. Jamie's dog was first to react, alerting him to the danger but the blaze kept him from reaching the bedrooms to wake anybody else up.

He was only 21 years old but had incredible strength, so he picked up a chest full of family documents and launched it through a window. The noise raised the alarm to everybody else and they managed to escape safely.

Later in life, Jamie was such a well-known figure in Aberdeenshire that he was used to smuggle Jacobite messages during the 1745 rising. He could travel freely between the Countess of Erroll and Lord Pitsligo who was in hiding from the government after Culloden. Nobody suspected a common fool to be up to anything serious.

Even though Jamie had an interesting life and was better known than the Laird of Udny himself, his death was tragically undignified. While in his 60s, he was soaked to the skin while travelling through a storm and developed a fever. The only shelter to be found was a barn where he promptly fell asleep.

The farmer had no idea that Jamie was inside and when he forced the door open, it struck the fool in the head. Even with a serious head injury, Jamie walked 8 more miles to his sister’s cottage where he passed away from his injuries. His final words were "dinna bury me like a beast" but sadly without sufficient funds, he was left in an unmarked grave.

Thankfully, 80 years later locals funded a gravestone to be erected in Longside, finally answering Jamie Fleeman's dying wish.

Words by Graeme Johncock, Illustration by Joe Mclaren

1.Which loch does Kilchurn Castle sit on?

2.What is the name of the palace at the foot of Edinburgh’s Royal Mile?

3.Which clan had their name outlawed in the 1600s?

Cottage Stays in Scotland

The Crofter's House

Isle of Skye

Immersed in the untamed beauty of Scotland's Isle of Skye, The Crofter's House offers a serene retreat. This restored 19th-century crofter's cottage, situated beside Camustianavaig Bay, flawlessly blends traditional charm with a touch of Scandinavian elegance. Perfect for a couple's escape, the cottage features a cozy living area with a wood-burning stove, a comfortable king-size bedroom, and a modern, well-equipped kitchen. Located in the heart of Skye, the house serves as an excellent starting point to explore iconic locales, promising an intimate encounter with nature's grandeur.

Inverenzie Cottage

Cairngorms National Park

Immersed in the stunning scenery of the Cairngorms National Park, Inverenzie Cottage is a hidden gem offering the perfect blend of rustic charm and modern sophistication. It's an idyllic retreat, whether you're seeking a romantic hideaway or a family vacation. Here, you can enjoy the warmth of a crackling living room fire, soak in a luxurious hot tub under the starry sky, or cook in the open-concept, well-appointed kitchen. Its proximity to Balmoral Castle opens up an array of outdoor adventures. From hiking to whisky tasting, Inverenzie Cottage delivers a true highland experience wrapped in minimalist elegance and tranquil beauty.

Pheasant Cottage

Perthshire

Pheasant Cottage, an 18th-century gem nestled in Perthshire's captivating countryside, offers a tranquil retreat amidst breathtaking highland vistas. This three-bedroom property blends rustic charm with modern comfort, featuring a handcrafted kitchen, a spacious living-dining area, and a master bedroom with an en-suite bathroom. Enjoy nature's tranquility in the private garden, or soak in the hot tub under the stars. With pet-friendly accommodations and a host of luxurious amenities, Pheasant Cottage promises an unforgettable Scottish escape.

Some more worth a mention

  • Laggan Cottage (link)

  • Davaar Island Cottages (link)

  • Moll Cottage (link)

  • Pentland Cottages (link)

On the 12th June 1997 – The Isle of Eigg is purchased by the local community.

On the 14th June 1933 – The first aircraft lands on the sand at Barra, now the world’s only commercial runway on a beach.

On the 15th June 1567 - The Battle of Carberry Hill ends with Mary Queen of Scots’ surrender without any real conflict after a standoff which lasted all day.

On the 16th June 1338 - An English army under the Earl of Salisbury finally give up besieging Dunbar Castle after five months of making no headway against Agnes Randolph.

On the 17th June 1390 - Alexander Stewart aka The Wolf of Badenoch destroys Elgin Cathedral in a violent outburst against the Bishop of Elgin for interfering in his marriage.

Smith & Gertrude Stockbridge

Edinburgh

Nestled in the charming heart of Stockbridge, Edinburgh, Smith & Gertrude reveals itself as a vibrant epicurean retreat. Born in 2015, this independent wine and cheese bar stands as an homage to a global journey, with roots drawing from Melbourne, New York, San Francisco, and Italy. Embracing the ethos of simplicity, the establishment champions high-quality, locally sourced wines and cheeses, serving them in their purest form. Smith & Gertrude gracefully unites passion and authenticity, echoing the vibrancy of its vibrant and diverse locale. It is more than a bar—it's a shared experience, a journey of taste, an intimate space that invites guests into the rich tapestry of wine and cheese exploration.

Did you know that at the Summer Solstice, Scotland’s Northern Isles experience the Simmer Dim?

The 21st of June is the Summer Solstice in Scotland, meaning that is the longest day of the year. While the day is marked in different ways all around the country, it’s most notable in the Northern Isles. In Shetland, the sun will rise around 3:30am and set around 10:30pm, giving almost 19 hours of daylight.

While it might not be bright come midnight, the sky never gets truly dark and so locals call this the Simmer Dim. It’s a time worth celebrating, before the days begin to shorten on their way to the polar opposite of the dark Winter Solstice.

Exploring the Deeside Way: An interview with Kelly Morrison

We chat to Kelly Morrison, the author and creator of new book The Deeside Way- A Companion Guide about her passion and inspiration behind writing the guide. As well as discussing some recommendations for coffee stops and points of interest along the 41 mile route that capture the essence of the places traversed, delving into the history and heritage of each location.

Hello, thanks so much for joining us. Please tell our readers a bit about yourself and introduce us to your new book.

Thank you for this opportunity! I’m Kelly Morrison and I am now a self-published author. Originally from Aberdeen, I have studied and worked in the areas of communications, tourism, heritage and place promotion for a variety of organisations. These interests led to me creating a companion guide book to the Deeside Way, a long-distance trail that runs between the city of Aberdeen and the village of Ballater in Aberdeenshire. It is a route that I have a particular fondness for, and wanted to share with the world.

What was it that made you want to start writing the Deeside Way companion guide?

I was in a bookshop looking at the section on walking and the outdoors, and noticed there were no guide books at the time on the Deeside Way. I felt strongly that there should be, so I decided to write one! I feel it’s a route that does not get as much profile as others, and I wanted to showcase it in a slightly different way to some of the more traditional guide books. Sharing an in-depth local perspective through recommendations, snippets of heritage and Including the voices of those who live, work or have connections to Way was an important focus throughout. My intention was for readers to get a deeper sense of the landscape, businesses and communities of Deeside with the path as the thread that connects them.

One thing I also wanted to highlight was that Nan Shepherd was born and lived in Aberdeen, the renowned author of The Living Mountain. Her former home has a plaque commemorating her life and work, and visiting that to pay homage to her is only a 5-10 minute detour off the route. These were the types of highlights I wanted to share, bringing to life the whole route in a way I felt I could through my personal and professional interests and experience

Can you tell us a bit about the process of writing the book, and your favourite part.

The process has certainly been an interesting and enjoyable one. Having not done anything like this before, much of it continues to be a steep learning curve. I started off by re-walking parts of the route regularly and taking voice notes on my phone, looking at it through fresh eyes as if I was going on a walk with a friend who had not been there before. It was always my intention for people reading the book to feel like I was speaking to them directly, which is why it was called a companion guide.

I knew I wasn’t going to be able to do everything myself, so I found a designer to help bring the book to life. Charlene Cheesman of Bosk Creative really ‘got’ my vision for it, and working with her was a great experience as she was so passionate about it too. Although I had quite a bank of photographs, I wanted the book to be very visual, so I approached Elin Beattie who also works in the Park Shop which is featured in the book. I loved her Instagram images and reached out to ask if she wanted to work together. Spending days out together capturing Deeside was really good fun, and bringing others into the process was so valuable. The pieces soon came together and made the project more tangible.

Narrowing down the content was one of the more challenging parts, and working out how to structure all the things I wanted to include as there was so much! I spent hours in various libraries researching the many books written about Deeside which was fascinating, and gave me so much context and background information to weave through. Speaking to businesses and organisations about what I was doing was also a key part of the process, and reaching out to the other contributors whose voices are shared.

Ultimately my favourite part was revisiting the route so regularly and learning even more about it myself. Hearing that the book has helped others get to know the route better too is really rewarding.

The book is filled with amazing people and businesses, can you give us a taster of a few places we might experience along the track?

There were so many people I wanted to speak to, and businesses and attractions I wanted to mention in the book. Sadly, I couldn’t include them all, so I have signposted to other resources such as VisitAberdeenshire, which covers even more about what the north east has to offer. An intention I had was to promote the numerous independent businesses that can be experienced on or near the route, which of course includes several cafes – many of which are dog friendly. One place that is located in a really nice section of the Way is the Potarch CafĂ©, by Potarch Bridge. It is family and dog friendly, and serves great coffee and pastries, and locally-sourced venison is on the menu too.

There is an eclectic range of shops, mostly in the villages, towns and hamlets along the route, including social enterprises such as Studio 1 in Banchory which sells a range of products from local artists and makers. There’s also a fantastic shop featured which is filled with products created by Scottish makers, and even has a travel planning station. Some of you may have heard of
 it’s called Hidden Scotland.

I hoped to emphasise the variety to experiences that are available, including the Royal Deeside Railway Preservation Society at Crathes, which offers a glimpse of the days of rail travel along the track, and you can find out more about the history of the remnants that are still evident today. Numerous bike hire and guiding companies show the route off at a difference pace and perspective, and an interesting business for cheese lovers which also features in the book is the Cambus O’May Creamery and the Milk Hoose CafĂ©. You can find out more about this artisan hand-made cheese company and sample its produce at the cafĂ© which has extensive outdoor seating, right beside the path.

 

Hidden Scotland Magazine Issue 6

Various themes run throughout our latest issue. Perhaps the most prominent is the notion of breaking away from the main drag. We tiptoe quietly into the country’s secret gardens, celebrate Edinburgh’s smaller museums and galleries, and learn more about the remote creative retreats scattered across the map. We also head to the extremity of the mainland, to look at the nooks and crannies of far-flung Caithness
 (see the full description on our website).

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Quiz Answers
  1. Loch Awe

  2. Holyrood

  3. Macgregor

     

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