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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

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Portmahomack

Easter Ross

Venture to the alluring, coastal charm of Portmahomack, a quaint fishing village located on the eastern seaboard of Scotland. This picturesque hamlet, cradled by the Dornoch Firth, paints a portrait of tranquility and timeless beauty. The pastel-hued cottages, reflected in the calm harbour waters, hark back to an era of seafaring simplicity. The ancient Tarbat Discovery Centre reveals tantalising tales of Pictish ancestry, adding a dash of intrigue to this peaceful paradise.

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Keith and Dufftown Railway

Morayshire

All aboard the 'Whisky Line', the Keith & Dufftown Railway, Scotland's northernmost heritage railway. Spanning 11 scenic miles from Dufftown to Keith Town, this captivating journey whisks you past sparkling lochs, majestic castles, and traditional whisky distilleries. From your seat in the B.R. Derby Class 108 DMU, witness an array of wildlife amidst a stunning backdrop lovingly resurrected by devoted volunteers. The adventure concludes with delectable fare at Dufftown Station's Buffer Stop. The 'Whisky Line' invites you to experience the evocative rhythm of rails and the sublime Scottish scenery.

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Skye Museum of Island Life

Isle of Skye

Travel through time at this enchanting Highland relic, the Skye Museum of Island Life. Set in the stunning Kilmuir, this award-winning site unveils the Isle of Skye's past in a most vivid tableau. Marvel at the authentically preserved thatched cottages - once a common sight - that now stand as monuments to a bygone era. The interiors reveal, with compelling detail, the lifestyle of crofters from the late nineteenth century. Here, the echoes of their songs and stories - the fabric of Hebrides' fame - still linger. An experience of warm history against wild gales, it's an intriguing haven in the raw beauty of the Skye landscape.

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The Mourning Kelpie

Hundreds of years ago, when Christianity hadn't long spread to Scotland, a priest travelled to Skye to preach and convert the islanders. Skye isn't a small island so after miles of walking, the priest had to stop and sit down for a rest. Driving his walking cane into the soft ground next to him like a fence post, he had some lunch and closed his eyes for a quick nap.

When he opened them again, he was shocked to find himself surrounded by dozens of tiny people! One of them explained that they were the fairy folk of Skye and were delighted there was finally a priest on the island. They had come to repent their sins and ask for forgiveness.

As kind as the priest was, he knew that the fairies had been cast out of heaven by God himself. On top of that, the Bible only referred to salvation for the children of Adam, so this was above his level of expertise. He apologised but it wasn't in his power to forgive them.

Another, older fairy then tried to plead with the priest. Was it not true that one repented sinner was worth more in heaven than a hundred righteous men? Still, the priest refused and exclaimed that there was more chance of his walking cane transforming into a tree than God allowing the fairies back into heaven.

There once lived at Waterstein on Skye, not far from Neist Point, an old widow and her daughter. It was a quiet existence for the pair with their wee cottage isolated miles away from neighbours, along narrow, winding country tracks.

This idyllic life was about to get much bleaker and lonelier however, as the daughter suddenly fell ill. She fought the sickness for some time, but there was nothing to be done and eventually the girl passed away, leaving her poor mother all alone.

The old woman sat through the night, mourning her daughter's body lying there awaiting burial next to her, while the embers of her peat fire gave off the weakest of light. Then out of nowhere, the latch on the door opened and in walked a tall, handsome stranger.

He didn't say a word, just strode the short distance across the floor and sat down right next to the grieving mother. The man stared at the corpse with tears in his eyes, never acknowledging the old woman once. There was something comforting about his presence, so she remained where she was and let him be.

Every so often, as the fire burned down, he would whisper "Make some light little peat" and the flames would grow once more. Whomever the stranger was, he clearly had some magic in him.

In the morning, he left without warning and the old woman never saw him again. She shared the strange occurrence with those who attended the funeral and they seemed to be convinced that this was a shapeshifting Kelpie. They usually hunted humans rather than mourned them, so there was clearly more to the story.

Maybe he had some part to play in the girl's demise and felt a strong sense of guilt. Or much more likely, maybe he had fallen in love with the girl and was just as heartbroken as her mother.

Words by Graeme Johncock, Photographs by Simon Hird

ÒR

ÒR consists of 2 creative retail stores in Portree on the Isle of Skye, that stock a wide range of contemporary art and craft. Jennifer Pearson, founder and owner, along with her team works closely with independent artists and designers to ensure authenticity and a sense of connection between artist and buyer.

Jennifer and team, see Skye as a source of inspiration and they work with different artists and makers on collaborations and projects inspiring new work. This provides work for independent creators and brings their work to the public eye, creating a varied and modern reflection of contemporary culture in Scotland.

Follow them here

Some more worth a mention

• Aume - Glasgow (link)

• The Tartan Blanket Co - Edinburgh (link)

• My Beautiful Caravan - Aberdeenshire (link)

• The Beehive - Fife (link)

Escape with: Heather Shields

Explore some of Scotland’s most beautiful locations and hidden gems in our Escape With series where we ask people about their connection to a favourite place.

Based in Gourock on Scotland’s west coast, textile designer and weaver Heather Shields creates contemporary woolen textiles and is known for her striking and dynamic patterns. Her collections of 100% wool blankets, cushions, wall hangings and scarves draw on influences ranging from architectural references to patterns found in the natural world. As an example, the Strata, Ebb, Tidal and Staffa designs were inspired by basalt rock formations on the Isle of Staffa along with the linear forms of modernist architecture.

Heather launched her textile business in 2014, and her fabrics are either hand woven or made in small batches at Drove Weaving in Langholm in the Borders. When asked to choose her favourite place, Heather acknowledges that selecting just one location was a challenge. As she says: “We are so blessed with the most amazing landscapes

Tell us about your favourite place - where is it?

Choosing a favourite place in Scotland is so difficult and leaves me feeling torn. Nevertheless, two very special places immediately spring to mind: Ardnamurchan and Lower Diabaig near Torridon. However, as I’ve only ever visited Diabaig for day trips, I’ve decided to write about Ardnamurchan

Why does this place mean so much to you?

Ardnamurchan feels like a proper escape from the pace of everyday life. I’m not very good at modern life. It’s noisy and overwhelming. I spend a lot of time in my own head, fretting about things I can’t control and things I can. I’ve realised that being in nature and exercising are key for me to feel well, both mentally and physically. As soon as we board the Corran ferry for the short crossing across Loch Linnhe, it feels like we are leaving behind any residual stress and the traffic surrounding Glencoe. I can feel my whole body relax, like a huge sigh of relief as we venture into the unspoilt beauty that this peninsula has to offer with solitude, fresh air, an amazing coastline, crystal clear sea and incredible geology. It was one of our first holidays after lockdown ended, so it was incredibly soothing after such an odd and uncertain time.

Do you have a first memory of visiting this place?

My strongest memories of Ardnamurchan are of climbing with my husband, Neil, at the gabbro slabs at Meall an Fhir-Eoin. It was an absolutely scorching day and we hiked in over the boggy, rocky landscape passing abandoned stone dwellings to reach the impressive slabs.

The area is of huge geological interest as it forms part of an extinct volcano. Heather, wild flowers and orchids grow in abundance and the smell of bog myrtle is sweet and medicinal in the warm air. I saw an adder for the first time and felt genuine awe (after I’d got over the fright of Neil nearly stepping on it in his bare feet…). While the rock was reassuringly grippy, I was, as always, apprehensive. Admittedly, I am not a natural climber (or in fact a natural in any sport...) and I’m still amazed every time I manage to follow Neil up a route. The day featured much swearing and scared whimpering, which I appreciate doesn’t tie in with the peaceful, tranquil narrative.

Nonetheless, each time I got to the top of the crag with Neil’s patient guidance and encouragement - albeit with scratches, cuts and bruises from my lack of ‘technique’ - we were rewarded with the most breathtaking views of Eigg, Rum and Skye, and I had a rush of gratitude for my body and mind for their resilience. The beauty of this place made me feel as though we had the whole world to ourselves; this amazing landscape stretched out in front of us to explore in the sunshine. Hiking back after a long day climbing, mud splattered and muscles aching for a swim, cold beer and dinner feels like absolute bliss. Simple things seem intensely pleasurable. It makes me feel thankful and blessed just to be in this place and grateful for my body in carrying me through another day’s adventure.

Sanna Bay has got to be my favourite beach to swim at; the fine grasses and flowers of the machair dance in the breeze and lead to white sandy dunes punctuated with colourful shells - quite literally a paradise. Every time we have visited Ardnamurchan we have made it a ritual to go for an evening swim at Sanna as we watch the sun go down before we head back to the campsite.

Ardnamurchan is also home to a spectacular lighthouse and the cliffs surrounding it are the perfect spot to look out for dolphins, whales and sea birds. On our last visit, a very kind bird watcher with a telescope eagerly called us over to show us some dolphins feeding just off-shore

Has it changed over the time that you’ve visited?

No, Ardnamurchan remains unspoilt, wild and tranquil, as I hope it always will.

How does this place inspire you?

The geology inspires me - while admittedly I know very little about it. I’m fascinated by the rock formations, structures and patterns we find on our adventures. It feels like connecting to something ancient and primitive; like a language we once knew but have since forgotten.

If someone was thinking of visiting this place, what’s the one thing they should know?

Be prepared for the remote nature of where you are going and research travel, responsible and respectful places to camp/stay the night, and where you might get food and supplies along the way. It’s not a place where you can simply turn up and hope there’ll be a shop open or a restaurant nearby. Similarly, look for toilet stops or familiarise yourself with the process of digging a hole and burying any waste/taking it away with you. ‘Leave nothing but footprints’ is such a great campaign that is sorely needed to protect our wild places.

What’s the place you’d most like to explore in Scotland, that you haven’t yet?

I would love to visit the Small Isles (Eigg, Rum and Muck) and the Western Isles. I’ve been to Harris and Lewis a few times for textile and weaving related trips but I would love to start in Barra and travel up through South Uist, North Uist, Harris and Lewis. This would be a longer trip with careful ferry logistics and planning essential, hence why we haven’t managed yet but hopefully soon. I’ve never really explored Skye either, which I’m keen to remedy.

See more of Heather’s work on Instagram and on her website.

Interviewed by Fiona Reid / Photography by Susan Castillo and Roz McCormick

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