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A Family Stay in Rural Perthshire by Laurie Goodlad

Snippet from the magazine…

With vibrant forests and woodlands, rivers bursting with crystal clear water, cascading waterfalls tumbling into quiet glens and a myriad of activities for both young and old, Perthshire is the ideal place to enjoy a family break this year. Solitary and peaceful, adventure-packed and active, Perthshire has something for everyone.

Known as the Big Tree Country, Perthshire gives Scotland its lungs, providing a rich tapestry of autumn colour with rich oranges, russet browns, golds and yellows that transform to lush, leafy green in summer. Each season brings magic and drama to this compelling and inspiring landscape.

Perthshire offers a gateway to the Highlands, centrally located and easily accessible, just a short drive from Glasgow and Edinburgh.

With Scotland’s longest river, Perthshire’s highest summit, and the oldest living thing in Europe – an aged yew tree – the Loch Tay area is the ideal base for a family adventure.

We chose the picturesque village of Killin, at the western head of Loch Tay, for our stay. Killin is probably most famous for its incredible series of rapids known as the Falls of Dochart that pass through the village in a turbulent torrent of water.

We stayed at The Crannog Cottage, a two-bedroom self-catering lodge named after the prehistoric loch-side roundhouses traditional to Scotland’s past. The Crannog is a luxury holiday cottage with a hot tub and picturesque views over the River Lochay. Loch Tay, who own the Crannog, offer a range of stunning lodges and cabins throughout the Loch Tay area…..

To read the full article you can purchase issue 06 here.

Duntrune Castle

Argyll and Bute

Discover the enchantment of Scotland's past at Duntrune Castle. This magnificent 12th-century stronghold proudly graces Argyll's dramatic coastline, an enduring symbol of the country's deep-seated history. Although a cherished private residence of the Malcolm family since the late 1700s, Duntrune makes an exception to its privacy, offering interested visitors an opportunity for short, intimate tours. These ventures bring to life the riveting tales that each stone of this ancient castle tells. Beyond the castle's hallowed halls, the meticulously kept gardens invite quiet exploration. Further afield, the serene Loch Crinan provides a tranquil setting for introspective strolls along its sandy bay. Lastly, the expanse of Poltalloch Estate stretches out, a whopping 5000 acres of quintessential Scottish landscape waiting to be explored on foot or bicycle. Each element of this journey weaves together to create a captivating picture of Scotland's timeless allure.

Find out more

Eas Fors Waterfall

Isle of Mull

Behold the splendour of Eas Fors Waterfall, a natural spectacle situated on the idyllic Isle of Mull. As its Gaelic name suggests, this 'waterfall of the waterfall' cascades in three tiers, plunging dramatically into the cerulean waters of Loch Tuath. The roar of water against rock is both mesmerising and soothing, creating a symphony that punctuates the tranquillity. Nearby, ancient woodland frames the scene, offering verdant trails ripe for exploration. It's a haven for wildlife enthusiasts, with opportunities to spot golden eagles and red deer. Eas Fors is a testament to Scotland's untouched beauty, a spectacle of raw power that leaves an indelible imprint.

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Wemyss Caves

Fife

Discover an enthralling historical journey at Wemyss Caves, a remarkable heritage site set along the Fife coast, rich with Pictish symbols and fascinating tales of antiquity. Shaped by the sea's relentless force thousands of years ago, the caves whisper of ages past. Delve into the mysteries of Bronze Age markings, a testament to the area's intriguing prehistoric narrative. From MacDuff Castle's medieval ruins to the rare Pictish art forms adorning the cave walls, each corner of the site presents an inviting exploration of Scotland's deep-rooted history. Despite threats from coastal erosion and vandalism, these treasured caves remain safeguarded and studied by dedicated societies, each carving carefully digitised for posterity. Step into a tale as old as time, where the echoes of early inhabitants resound in every stone and carving, painting a vivid picture of Scotland's unique heritage.

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Battle of Culloden

By April 1746, a Jacobite army led by Bonnie Prince Charlie had marched from Glenfinnan down to Derby and all the way back north to Inverness. They were yet to lose a battle, but supplies were running low and hundreds of their soldiers were scattered around the country. In their disorganised state, retreat would have been the sensible option in the face of a large government army, but the Prince couldn’t afford to abandon the city.

Morale in the government camp was high, the soldiers were well-fed, rested and on the 15th of April, they even held a celebration for their commander the Duke of Cumberland’s birthday. That gave the Jacobite commanders an idea. The plan was to surprise the merry, drunken troops in the darkness, defeating them before they had a chance to react.

Unfortunately for the Jacobites, they were so concerned about being spotted by the Royal Navy waiting in the Moray Firth, that they left far too late. Stumbling across difficult terrain in total darkness, the ambushers were slow to arrive at the government lines. In the end, they turned back without making any contact and hundreds of exhausted, starving Jacobites would miss the upcoming battle as they searched for food or caught up on sleep.

By the middle of that day, roughly 9000 government soldiers lined up at Culloden opposite 5000 Jacobites. It wasn’t an ideal battlefield for Prince Charles’ side, far too open and flat, where simple strength in numbers could easily come out on top. The first action of the battle was a short artillery exchange, but the boggy moorland soaked up much of the damage, without either side making a serious impact.

Soon, the Jacobites surged forward with their fearsome Highland Charge. They raced towards their opponents, firing a single volley before charging into the confusion with sword and dirk swinging. It had won them every battle so far, but the government lines were expecting it this time. Their artillery switched to canister shot and hundreds of balls spread out from the cannon’s barrels, shredding anything in front of it.

Clan chiefs charging at the front of their men were some of the first to fall, destroying both morale and leadership. Even under the barrage, the Jacobite right wing still managed to cause carnage, however, the left was slowed by the poor ground and came to a standstill. Unable to move forwards, they fled backwards, leaving those who had already engaged isolated and quickly defeated.

The Battle of Culloden had been lost, but Charles was still determined to rally his soldiers and charge to death or glory. Wiser heads prevailed and his generals dragged the Prince away from the battlefield as Irish and French regiments covered the retreat. Around 1500-2000 Jacobites were killed or wounded on that day as opposed to roughly 300 government soldiers.

While some were determined to keep the fight alive, the now infamous battle marked the end of the Jacobite risings. It’s said that Culloden is such a place of sadness that no birds sing around its moors and that every year on the anniversary of the battle, those who died are doomed to rise and fight once again.

Words by Graeme Johncock, Photographs by Simon Hird

Leo’s Beanery

A testament to resilience and passion, Leo's Beanery in Edinburgh's New Town emerged amid a recession in 2004. Today, it's a cherished destination for locals and visitors, celebrated for its award-winning coffees, enticing brunches, and irresistible cakes.

Follow them here

Some more worth a mention

More Edinburgh eateries worth a mention

• The Pastry Section (link)

• Wellington Coffee (link)

• Throat Punch Coffee Company (link)

• Twelve Triangles (link)

• Fhior (link)

• Ondine (link)

• Razzo Pizza (link)

• Dulse (link)

• The Lookout by Gardener's Cottage (link)

Alladale Wilderness Reserve: Walk on the wild side

After twenty years of rewilding efforts, a 23,000-acre Highlands reserve is blooming with extremely rare plants and a million native trees. But as work to return Alladale Wilderness Reserve to its natural state continues, the scenery near Inverness is getting even wilder.

You’ll need to drive 12 miles to the end of a single-track road to reach Alladale Wilderness Reserve, which goes some way to suggesting how remote it is. It’s only an hour north of Inverness, but still: this is wild Highlands territory. It is a setting of 23,000 acres where two rivers snake between deep valleys and a dozen hill lochs reflect the moody antics of the wide cloudscapes above. The scene is painted in army green and deep purple, and the air twinkles with birdsong carried on the wind. Climb to the top of the ridge that marks the middle of Alladale and you’re at the only point in the whole of the UK where you can see the North Sea and the Atlantic Ocean at the same time. And, dappled in the light across the glens that surround you, there is a mosaic of sapling trees.

Almost a million of them, to be precise. They are all native trees that were planted as part of large-scale native riparian forestry restoration projects at Alladale. Alongside Scots Pine, there are saplings of alder, aspen, rowan, willow and birch. It’s hard to imagine that when Paul Lister acquired Alladale Wilderness Reserve in 2003, “we were lacking in tree cover and overrun by red deer numbers”. Sadly, he says, this is a common problem in what the Romans referred to as the “Great Forest of Caledon” – of which just one per cent remains today.

To allow the trees to thrive, Paul’s team of rangers reduced the red deer population – “who browse saplings into submission” – by 80 per cent. They then set about repairing damaged peatland, resulting in increased biodiversity, and have recently identified a series of very rare plants – as well as the ancient woodland plant Twinflower, Holly Fern and Common Wintergreen, according to Reserve Manager Innes MacNeill.

It's no coincidence that wildlife is making a comeback: there are black grouse on the woodland edge, and evidence of healthier populations of existing bird species around the woodlands. “And on our camera trap programme,” says Innes, “we have found red squirrels making it out to our furthest woodland enclosures of their own accord, which is brilliant.” In 2013, Alladale worked with the rewilding expert Roy Dennis to reintroduce 36 red squirrels.

The reserve is also home to a breeding pair of golden eagles and is actively helping recover the endangered Scottish Wildcat – felis silvestris grampia, a legally protected subspecies to its European cousins that is only found in the Central and Northern Highlands of mainland Scotland. “Our wildcat enclosure currently houses six males and one female as part of a captive breeding project in partnership with the Royal Zoological Society of Scotland and Saving Wildcats, with the ultimate aim of release in the future,” says Paul.

Paul is the visionary behind all of this, but he’s keen to make clear that he is not the owner of Alladale. “To be honest,” he says, “I think it’s a little strange to ‘own’ such wild and open landscape at such a scale, especially in such an overcrowded island.”

Visit

To support its conservation work, Alladale Wilderness Reserve has three fully catered lodges. Guests are nourished by head chef Natasha Buttigieg, who concocts hearty fare using vegetables, herbs and berries from the reserve’s hydro-generator-powered aquaponic gardens.

Find out more www.alladale.com

Interviewed by Emily Rose Mawson 

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