Issue 14

Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly

Sunday 13th August 2023
Today's weekly takes approx. 9 minutes to read.

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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

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Have a great Sunday!

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. What’s in the Magazine

  2. A Prank Too Far at Aberdeen University

  3. Did You Know

  4. Scotland’s Weekly Wonders

  5. Castles of Caithness

  6. This Weeks Quiz

  7. Escape With.... Sara McCarter of Castaway Scotland

  8. Gilmerton House Spotlight

A Prank Too Far at Aberdeen University

The University of Aberdeen is one of the oldest and most prestigious schools in Scotland, created in 1495 by Bishop Elphinstone. With permission from King James IV, King's College was founded to cure what the bishop saw as the ignorance of the north by providing teachers, clergy and doctors to the surrounding area.

As a Bishop, it's no surprise that Elphinstone's new university would include an elaborate chapel and it was a prime target during the Reformation. Religious unrest was moving closer, but the principal refused to let his university suffer the fate that so many abbeys and cathedrals did. Knowing what students are like, it’s said that he armed them with both weapons and drink and the rowdy group managed to scare off the attacking mob.

Boisterous students aren’t always so beneficial though and one dark chapter still hangs over The University of Aberdeen. Back in the 18th century, the University supposedly employed a sacrist called George Downie. It was his job to turf the students out of bed for their 5am prayers and generally keep order around the halls. Downie was said to be particularly strict with the rules and known to lock students out in the cold if they missed curfew.

Needless to say, the young students weren't fond of the sacrist and one night decided to get their revenge. They kidnapped and dragged him into a mock trial, laying out the "crimes" Downie had committed against them. The sentence was death and if Downie hadn't taken them seriously before then that changed when a hooded figure bearing a large axe walked in.

They placed his head on a block as he begged for forgiveness. His plea fell on deaf ears and he heard the woosh of the axe through the air. However, instead of a blade, it was just a wet cloth that they whipped across his neck. While the students roared with laughter, that changed when they noticed that Downie wasn't getting back up.

The old man had died of fright and it’s said that the students were left to hide the body. There’s a cairn at the edge of Seaton Park that supposedly marks where Downie was buried, but there’s no mention of him in the university records. Maybe it’s all just an urban legend or maybe the university did a great job in covering their tracks.

Interviewed by Graeme Johncock

 

Did you know that the world’s first colour photograph was taken in Scotland?

In the realm of scientific advancements, James Clerk Maxwell stands tall with his ground-breaking work in the 19th century. Notably, in 1861, Maxwell, a Scotsman renowned for his theory of electromagnetism, presented the world's first colour photograph. The image showcased a tartan ribbon, captured using three different colour filters: red, green, and blue. When combined, the ribbon's vibrant colours emerged, setting a precedent for future colour photography techniques. In recognition of Maxwell's significant contributions, a statue in his honour stands proudly on George Street in Edinburgh. It's a testament to Scotland's rich history of innovation, with Maxwell's achievements celebrated for posterity.

Crail

Fife

Crail, set against Scotland's rugged eastern coastline, radiates an enduring allure. Whitewashed cottages, their windows mirroring the dance of the North Sea's waves, stand as silent witnesses to centuries of maritime tales. In this village, culture and heritage meld in a harmonious tableau. Fishing boats continue ancient traditions, and sunsets paint the skies in hues of gold and crimson. Wander its cobbled alleys or stand by its age-old structures, and feel the invitation to craft a unique tale amidst the backdrop of the Scottish coast.

Grave of Flora MacDonald

Isle of Skye

Kilmuir, on Skye's Trotternish Peninsula, houses the historic burial ground of Flora MacDonald. This Jacobite heroine, born in Milton, South Uist, gained acclaim for aiding Bonnie Prince Charlie's escape post-Culloden in 1746. Arrested and imprisoned in the Tower of London, her act was hailed as heroism rather than treason. Today, a grand Celtic cross marks her grave in Kilmuir, testament to her lasting legacy. Even centuries later, visitors leave flowers at her memorial, honouring her courage and compassion.

Dunoon

Argyll and Bute

Dunoon, located on the Cowal Peninsula, Scotland, once thrived as a naval base and Victorian seaside resort. Facing the Firth of Clyde, it's a beacon of maritime heritage and Scottish traditions. Beyond its vibrant annual events like the Cowal Highland Gathering, Dunoon reveals tales of ancient clans and historic feuds. The town's promenade, bustling with activity, contrasts its serene forests and hills, drawing both adventurers and history enthusiasts. Today, visitors flock to Dunoon, seeking its rich past and picturesque landscapes.

Scottish Quote of the Week

“A good tale never tires in the telling” – Expect stories to get wilder and more fanciful the more times they’re told.

 

Castles of Caithness

Keiss Castle

Keiss Castle balances like a dagger at the northern edge of Sinclair Bay. Centuries of erosion have brought the edge closer and closer to the walls, such that the tower looks ready to tip. Keiss was built in the late 16th or early 17th century by George Sinclair, the same ‘Wicked Earl’ of Castle Sinclair-Girnigoe. It is a ‘Z-plan’ tower, meaning that if viewed from above it would look like a Z. This is quite an unusual design with only a handful of other examples in Scotland, including Claypotts Castle in Dundee and Noltland Castle. Keiss Castle is popular with photographers for good reason. The seas and skies contrast with, and sometimes mimic, its dark grey stone. The castle seems to stand with chest puffed out against the lashings of the winds and waves, daring the elements to try and take it. One day, no doubt, they will. This is why access to the castle is prohibited, and visitors are advised to keep their distance to stop anyone from unintentionally hastening that fate.

Ackergill Tower

The most intact of all the castles on this list, Ackergill Tower is at the centre of the string of castles that line the shores of Sinclair Bay, a place I’ve begun to call the ‘castle crescent’. First mentioned in 1538, the lands of Ackergill belonged to Clan Keith since 1354. The Keiths were rivals of the Sinclairs, and in 1547 the Sinclairs seized Ackergill by force. It was restored to the Keiths by Mary of Guise, but the Sinclairs captured it again in 1556. In 1593 the Keith laird’s own brother took it from him and was declared a rebel as a result. In 1612 Ackergill was sold to the Sinclairs, but in just a decade they surrendered it to Rpber Gordon without a fight. Ackergill Tower was a luxury hotel for 30 years until 2019 when it was purchased as a private residence. Scotland’s Outdoor Access Code allows you to view and photograph the castle from a respectable distance, but it is no longer open to visitors.

Castle Sinclair-Girnigoe

A few of Scotland’s castles, like Keiss, seem to straddle the boundary of possibility. Standing at the uttermost cliff edge of Sinclair Bay, Castle Sinclair-Girnigoe grows out of the rock in imitation of the sea stacks that surround it. Home of the mighty Sinclair Earls of Caithness and Orkney, Castle Sinclair-Girnigoe was the strongest castle anywhere north of Urquhart on Loch Ness. With its own harbour, the Sinclair lairds could send their sea wolves – birlinn longships – out to raid or intercept their enemies at a moment’s notice. The Sinclairs had several mighty castles throughout Scotland, notably Roslin Castle near Rosslyn Chapel in Midlothian. The first Castle Girnigoe was likely built in the late 14th century by Henry Sinclair. It was greatly expanded in the 16th and early 17th century to the point that George Sinclair, a duel-prone rival of Clan Gunn remembered as the ‘Wicked Earl’, had its name changed to Castle Sinclair as a reflection of the family’s prestige. If you happen to be a Game of Thrones fan, Castle Sinclair-Girnigoe is probably the closest castle in the world to the Ironborn fortress of Pyke. An honorable mention goes to the Castle of Old Wick not far to the south, a small but evocative stone tower in a similarly dramatic position favoured by flocking birds during sunset.

Words by David C Weinczok, Photographs by Simon Hird

1.How many working distilleries are there on Islay?

2.Which part of the bagpipes forms the melody?

3.Which Antarctic exploration ship is now a Dundee attraction?

Photograph by Abigail Rose King @folkenrose

Escape with.... Sara McCarter of Castaway Scotland

For Sara McCarter, living by the sea in East Lothian provided the catalyst for Castaway Scotland, the natural soap making business she launched in 2018. In creating her range of handmade soaps – which are packed with natural ingredients, like Cranachan, made with raspberries, honey and oats, and Insomniac, made with Scottish lavender - Sara wanted to reflect the beauty of her local environment while creating a product range that would soothe the skin issues that can come with harsh weather and an outdoors lifestyle. Sara also illustrates the sea creatures that feature on the soap packaging, and sells the illustrations as cards and prints – all available through her online shop. When asked to choose her favourite place in Scotland, Sara didn’t have to look far as her choice reflects her love of East Lothian as well as the importance of appreciating what’s on your doorstep.

Tell us about your favourite place - where is it?

This is an impossible question as there are so many amazing places in Scotland! I love the peace of the Highlands, the beauty of the islands, and the cities are stunning. In the end I have decided to tell you about somewhere very close to home: Seacliff Beach. I live on the east coast, near Edinburgh, and Seacliff is about 4 miles away.

Why does this place mean so much to you?

To reach the beach you have to pay at the barrier and then go down a winding track through the shady trees, where suddenly the open sea comes into view. It takes my breath away every time. At the far end of the beach is Seacliff Harbour, which at just three metres wide is the UK’s smallest harbour. The ruins of Tantallon Castle can be seen perched on the rocks in the distance, with the Bass Rock and a haze of gannets also visible in the summer. There is so much history and also so much natural beauty to be seen and if the sun is shining, the white sand and the blue sea make it feel like the Caribbean (with a wind break up!). 

Do you have a first memory of visiting this place? Or a favourite more recent memory perhaps?

One time I went there with my two boys when they were young. It was mid-winter and we went there one chilly afternoon. The sun was so low in the sky that the frost hadn’t had a chance to melt and the sand was crunchy with it. It just felt so magical and peaceful as we were the only people there; we had the entire beach to ourselves. Stupidly I’d forgotten how early and quickly it gets dark in the winter and we really felt like we were on the edge of the world as we scrambled through the bushes to get back to our car and civilisation. More recently, my husband left his job as a paramedic to work as a full- time fisherman out of Seacliff. The first time I sat in his fishing boat and he navigated his way out of the tiny harbour, I couldn’t believe how lucky we were that this is now his place of work! It is a very special place.

Has this place changed over the time that you’ve visited?

I have been visiting Seacliff Beach for a couple of decades now and the only thing that has changed is that it’s busier. The landscape hasn’t changed, but the number of people enjoying it has definitely increased. It’s lovely on a summer's day seeing so many people enjoying themselves. Equally lovely on a cold winter's day to have the place to ourselves.

How does this place inspire you?

I just always feel happy that I can be somewhere so beautiful and so peaceful so close to home. If someone was thinking of visiting this place, what’s the one thing they should know? Take £3 in coins for the barrier!

What’s the place you’d most like to explore in Scotland, that you haven’t yet?

I would love to spend a long stretch of time visiting the Outer Hebrides. Definitely not a trip I would want to rush so one to plan for the future when time is not an issue.

See Sara’s soaps and her illustrations on her website, and follow Castaway Scotland on Instagram.

Interviewed by Fiona Reid

On the 7th August 1548 – Mary Queen of Scots sails to safety in France aged five where she would remain for the next 13 years.

On the 15th August 1057 – Malcolm Canmore defeats King Macbeth at the Battle of Lumphanan.

On the 15th August 1771 – Birth of Sir Walter Scott who would go on to change the idea of Scottish national identity forever.

On the 18th August 1966 – The opening of the Tay Road Bridge between Fife and Dundee.

On the 19th August 1745 – Bonnie Prince Charlie raises his father’s standard at Glenfinnan and officially starts the 1745 Jacobite Rising

On the 20th August 1589 – James VI marries Anne of Denmark but with George Keith stepping in as proxy for the King who wasn’t present.

Gilmerton House

Where time stands still and elegance meets the rugged Scottish wilderness, Gilmerton House beckons, a beacon of luxury and tradition. Mere moments from Edinburgh, yet worlds away from the urban hustle, this exclusive-use estate marries history with a hint of the contemporary. Standing tall since the early 1600s, Gilmerton’s vivid history unfolds through the warmth of its log fires, the ancestral portraits lining its halls, and the legacy of the Kinloch family that has inhabited its rooms for thirteen generations.

Offering accommodation fit for royalty, the main house proudly features 10 lavish bedrooms, while The Lodge, nestled within the estate, adds an intimate touch with an additional 3 bedrooms. Whether you’re booking the entire estate or just The Lodge, comfort and grandeur await.

Yet, even such a grand dame as Gilmerton House keeps pace with the times. The latest flourish to its already impeccable repertoire is the addition of The Laundry House, a renovated event space that combines rustic charm with modern convenience. Originally conceived in 1804, this space has worn many hats – from an estate laundry to a garage, and intriguingly, a gym. Today, reimagined and reinvigorated, it stands ready to host bespoke events, adding another layer to Gilmerton's expansive offering.

Whether it's the draw of North Berwick’s pristine beaches, the allure of ancient castles, or the promise of golfing retreats and stately celebrations, Gilmerton House waits with open arms, ever-evolving, always enchanting.

*This is a paid advertisement*

The Hidden Scotland Promise
We will only showcase the most remarkable Scottish accommodations to our community. Each accommodation spotlight is carefully considered, underpinned by a commitment to presenting options that provide a high-quality quality experience.

 

Quiz Answers
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