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What’s in issue 08?

A Family Guide to the Isle of Arran

From beaches and ferries to cafés, castles and wildlife, nothing is far away on Arran, says Emily Rose Mawson, as she and her four-year-old tour the west coast island known as Scotland in Miniature.

Castles of Edinburgh

Edinburgh Castle itself is quite unmissable as the epic exclamation mark at the centre of the city, but did you know that there are other hallowed halls to be found and explored? Edinburgh and its surrounds had much need of being guarded, and the city once had over a dozen castles of all shapes and sizes. Of these, three of the grander ones remain open to the public while others function as community centres or private residences. This is your guide to capital castle hunting!

Edinburgh Castle

The biography of Edinburgh Castle reads like a masterpiece of high fantasy. For thousands of years a fortress dominated castle rock, straddling the summit of an extinct volcano. Besieged times beyond counting, its pages are filled with defiant last stands, daring moonlit raids, auspicious royal births, treacherous massacres, and lost treasures rediscovered in secret chambers. Edinburgh Castle’s story is nothing less than the story of Scotland.

The list of epic episodes is long indeed. When Rome’s legions marched north to conquer Caledonia, they found – and apparently steered clear of – the Votadini tribe and their mighty hillfort on castle rock. When Germanic conquerors brought fire and sword to the Lowlands at the dawn of the 7th century AD, the descendants of the Votadini rode out on horseback and charged headlong to their doom on the battlefield. When an English garrison held Edinburgh in 1313, Robert the Bruce’s nephew Thomas Randolph led a small squad up the sheer face of castle rock by darkness and retook it by stealth. When civil war erupted between supporters of Mary, Queen of Scots and the infant future king James VI, the castle was besieged for over a year with cannon fire tearing through the town and sharpshooters stationed atop the walls. These are but a fraction of Edinburgh Castle’s Hollywood-worthy moments.

Even a ’highlights only’ tour of Edinburgh Castle could easily take up hours. Dating from c.1130AD, St Margaret’s Chapel is the oldest surviving building in Edinburgh. Just outside the chapel is Mons Meg, a behemoth of a bombard given as a wedding present to King James II in 1457 by the Duke of Burgundy. One of the largest calibre cannons in world history, it could fire a 150kg stone at targets up to two miles away.

Moving into early modernity, the exhibition within the castle’s prison displays a wooden door etched with one of the earliest known depictions of an American ‘stars and stripes’ flag, carved by a prisoner during the Revolutionary War. For military history enthusiasts, hours can be spent examining costumes, honours, and the spoils of war in multiple regimental museums and the National War Museum.

Fans of Game of Thrones may know Edinburgh Castle as the location of the ‘Black Dinner’, the treacherous dinner in 1440 which inspired the infamous Red Wedding. It was also in Edinburgh Castle that the Honours of Scotland – consisting of a crown, sceptre, and sword of state – were rediscovered by none other than literary superstar Sir Walter Scott in a secret chamber in 1818 after being lost for nearly two centuries.

Scotland has well over 2,000 castles, but you can count on one hand the ones which played so central a role in Scottish history. Visitors and locals alike stand in awe of the mighty castle of the rock.

Edinburgh Castle is managed by Historic Environment Scotland and has an entry fee. Pre-booking tickets online, especially during the busy summer months, is strongly encouraged.

Craigmillar Castle

If something more distinctly medieval than Edinburgh Castle is what you’re after, look no further than Craigmillar Castle just two miles south of the city centre.

Craigmillar Castle dates from the 14th century, beginning as a rectangular towerhouse and gradually expanding to include two curtain walls, residential courtyards, a doocot and even a pond whose basin is still distinctly shaped like the letter ‘P’ for the Preston family who first lived here. It was sold in 1660 to Sir John Gilmour who expanded and enhanced the castle, and the Gilmours in turn gifted the castle to the nation in 1946.

The castle’s on-screen star is rising, nearly matching that of film and television veteran Doune Castle. Its walls held Jamie Fraser prisoner after the Battle of Culloden in Outlander. Its courtyards and exterior view stood in chameleon-like for several castles in Outlaw King, the remarkably accurate account of Robert the Bruce’s rise to power. These recent claims to fame are due in large part to Craigmillar’s status as one of the best-preserved medieval castle ruins anywhere in Scotland.

The greatest joy of visiting Craigmillar Castle is how it rewards exploration. To reach the castle’s heart you must pass through a grand gateway flanked by sacred yew trees, feeling every bit like the beginning of an epic quest. Inside are neuks and crannies branching off in all directions, a multi-storey central tower complete with a cavernous great hall, ramparts decked out with cartoon-worthy crenelations, and a mini-labyrinth of chambers and spiral staircases. It is the kind of place where, no matter how many times you have been before, you always discover something new.

Modern visitors are far from the first to seek solace at the castle. Mary, Queen of Scots stayed at Craigmillar in 1563 and 1566, the latter time following the shocking murder of her advisor, David Rizzio, before her very eyes at Holyrood Palace. Distraught and simmering with rage at her husband, Lord Darnley, who orchestrated Rizzio’s murder, a plot was hatched at Craigmillar Castle to dispose of Darnley – aptly called the Craigmillar Bond. In less troubled times, Mary enjoyed horseback riding, hawking, and the fruits of the formal gardens on the castle’s grounds. The French guards and courtiers who accompanied her were so numerous that the area became known as Little France.

Craigmillar Castle is also managed by Historic Environment Scotland and has an entry fee. Its grounds are quiet and dog-friendly, and it’s an ideal destination for families with younger children.

Lauriston Castle

If a resplendent country house is more your style than a medieval ruin, Lauriston Castle in the west of Edinburgh is a must-see. The elegance of the castle itself is paralleled in the beauty of its grounds, which are graced with Neoclassical statues, wooded paths, well-kept lawns where dogs run free, and a gorgeously contemplative Japanese Garden.

Behind Lauriston’s refined character lay rugged foundations. It stands on the site of a medieval towerhouse which was destroyed during the Rough Wooing, when Henry

VIII of England put much of the Lowlands to the torch trying in vain to force a royal marriage. It was this early tower that

What you see now began under banker John Law, who ordered the construction of New Orleans and laid the groundwork for the establishment of France’s national bank – hence the distinctively French stylings of his castle. It was later owned by luxury cabinetmaker William Reid and his wife, Margaret, known as ‘the talented Mrs Reid’ for her multilingualism, travelled alone internationally, and studied physiology alongside pioneering female doctor Elsie Inglis. It was Margaret who left the castle in trust to the nation.

Between Margaret and William’s talents and fortunes, the castle was decked out with carpets identical to those seen in luxury railway carriages of the early 1900s, a zinc bath like those used on luxury ocean liners, and a collection of ‘Blue John’ ornaments which dazzles with translucent, rippling blue when put under a light.

The castle tour is very worthwhile, but half a day could easily be spent wandering the grounds and enjoying the views over the nearby Firth of Forth. Silverknowes Beach, as well as Cramond Village and tidal island, are just a short walk away. Combining Lauriston with a trip to the shore is a favourite way for Edinburgh locals to spend a sunny day.

Lauriston Castle is managed by Museums & Galleries Edinburgh. Castle entry is by pre-booked guided tour only, but access to the grounds is free.

Edinburgh’s ‘other’ castles

Merchiston Tower

Merchiston Castle is a master of hiding in plain sight – many longtime locals have no idea that it even exists! The late 15th-century towerhouse is now wedged between the modern buildings of Edinburgh Napier University’s Merchiston Campus, just around the corner from the bustling neighbourhood of Bruntsfield.

Merchiston Tower’s claim to fame is as the birthplace of John Napier (1550 – 1617), a polymath of so many interests and talents that some people thought he was a wizard. His most enduring contribution to the sciences was his development of logarithms, making him a grandfather of computer sciences. Napier, whose name was given to the eponymous university, also developed an early tank and a ‘laser’ weapon which focused the sun’s rays through a series of mirrors.

Merchiston Tower is not normally open to the public, but is often opened during Edinburgh’s annual Doors Open Days in September.

Inch House

If the medieval ruins of Craigmillar Castle leave you craving a little more refinement, take the short walk to Inch House in Inch Park. Rumours even speak of a secret tunnel connecting the two!

Inch House was built in the 16th century and was once home to the Keeper of the Great Seal of Scotland, James Winram. Inch House got a Scots baronial makeover in the 19th century, making parts of it look more like a French country house than a medieval tower – though inside it retains plenty of its late medieval character, including a spiral stair and barrel-vaulted chamber.

Scotland has many such towers, but given that Inch House functions as a community centre, precious few are as integrated into their local community. In fact, Edinburgh has two community centres in castles, the other being Craigentinny Castle in the northeast.

As a community centre Inch House is open to the public, though some areas of the castle are restricted.

Barnbougle Castle

A stroll through Dalmeny Estate on Edinburgh’s western fringe is a great way to spend half a day, especially followed up by a sweet treat in South Queensferry. Along the way are a trifecta of historic sites worth seeing, including the quietly luxurious Barnbougle Castle on the shore of the Firth of Forth.

Now a private residence and events space, Barnbougle Castle has very old bones. It was established in the 13th century by the de Moubray family from Normandy, passing to the Primrose family in the 1660s. The castle, which as fallen into disrepair, was converted into a Victorian scholar’s retreat in the 1880s by the 5th Earl of Rosebery, who briefly served as Prime Minister from 1894 – 1895.

While you’re in the area, don’t miss the Gothic revival mansion of Dalmeny House and, for those interested in more ancient history, a 2,000 year-old carving of a Roman eagle made by legionaries from the fort at Cramond known as ‘Eagle Rock’.

Barnbougle Castle is an exclusive-use venue and visitors are not permitted, so enjoy the view from a distance.

Want to learn more about Edinburgh’s amazing castles, check out our latest book, The Best of Edinburgh.

Written by David C. Weinczok

Leith Shellycoat

Cities don’t usually feature in stories of folklore, but at one point Leith was home to a strange and dangerous creature known as the Shellycoat.

This beast got its name from its seashell encrusted coat and was found haunting waterways and bogs. An ominous rattle gave away its prowling presence as those shells swung back and forth. Residents of Leith would be filled with dread if they heard that sound while walking the streets at night.

The Shellycoat that hunted around these dockyards was said to live inside a large, shell coated boulder that lay near the water. Children would be dared to run around the rock three times chanting: "Shellycoat, Shellycoat, gang awa hame, I cry na yer mercy, I fear na yer name."

A visiting soldier called Richard, after too many drams in a Leith pub one night laughed at the superstitious locals. He bet a gallon of wine that he would walk right up to the Shellycoat Stane and challenge it right there and then.

Most people wanted nothing to do with incurring the wrath of the monster, but there were always a few interested in a wager. They took Richard up on the challenge and watched as he marched along the dark streets of Leith alone.

Half an hour passed and the crowd thought Richard was just stalling for dramatic effect. When it stretched to an hour, they started to get worried. The men finished their liquid courage and set out to see what had happened to the man who had been so full of bravado.

They found Richard lying in a heap, covered in bruises, soaking wet and with both legs broken. Weeks passed before the soldier would talk of what had happened that night.

He claimed that the Shellycoat had appeared from behind the stone with a deafening scream. It sounded like every shell in the sea was suddenly crashing on top of him. Then the creature lifted him up like a ragdoll and threw him across to Inchkeith Island in the middle of the Firth of Forth. There, it threw rocks and great clumps of earth at poor, helpless Richard.

Next, he was tossed in the sea before being dragged back to Leith and dropped onto the stone from a great height. The last thing he remembered was the sound of the Shellycoat laughing and the fading sound of the seashells.

Over the years, as the docks improved the enormous stone has disappeared. There’s debate over whether it was destroyed or moved but either way, the Leith Shellycoat hasn't been seen or heard from since.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

There are few places in Scotland quite as special as St Kilda. Often known as the islands on the edge of the world, this wee archipelago sits around 40 miles to the west of the other Outer Hebrides. It’s been a bucket list location of mine for years and last week I finally had the opportunity to go.

We left from Stein in Skye on a clear, sunny morning and four hours later were craning our necks in awe at the soaring sea stacks of St Kilda. Around a million seabirds make their home on the cliffs here and during the summer, the sky is full of swooping and screeching fulmers, gannets and puffins.

The only St Kildan island that saw permanent occupation is Hirta, where humans first settled around Village Bay thousands of years ago. It’s a tiny place, fringed with the highest cliffs in Scotland at 400m and without much space to grow crops. That’s why these islanders lived mainly off seabirds and their eggs!

Using ropes made of horsehair, they would clamber down the sheer rock to collect their meals before storing them in a stone building known as a cleit. Without lots of fuel or salt to treat the meat, the wind blowing through the drystone structures helped with preservation. Around 1200 cleitean (plural of cleit) are spread across the island, some right at the steep slopes.

Upon arrival at Hirta, we hiked straight up to a spot between the two highest hills known as The Gap. The view down to Village Bay is just spectacular, it looks like something straight out of a fantasy novel rather than real life. It’s worth bearing in mind that we were there on a sunny day and life for the St Kildans would have been far less idyllic during an Atlantic storm.

The population usually bobbed around 100 residents unless the island was hit by a tragedy like the 1727 smallpox outbreak that almost wiped out the community entirely. It was a tough place to survive and with most of the younger generation moving away for an easier life, it was impossible for those left behind to carry on.

In 1930, the last 36 St Kildans asked to be evacuated and were all found new homes on mainland Scotland. Today, Hirta isn’t entirely abandoned with its military base and a National Trust for Scotland ranger station found alongside the ruins of the old village.

Originally, we had taken the option to stay in the NTS campsite for a couple of nights, but with the weather taking a turn for the worse, we wouldn’t have been picked up for almost a week. As much as I loved St Kilda, I didn’t fancy trying to catch any seabirds when my camping supplies ran out…

It just gives me the perfect excuse to go back!

Written by Graeme Johncock

Slains Castle - Taken by Simon Hird

Did you know we published our first book this year?

Our first ever guidebook is still available from our online shop here, and also some shops including, Toppings and co, Waterstones, WHSmith, Lifestory, Tartan Blanket Co, The Blue Magpie, Typewronger Books, Meander, Royal Botanic Gardens, Beech & Birch and from our shop at Milton of Crathes in Banchory.

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