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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

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What’s in issue 08?

The Hidden Scotland Shop - A Place to Call Home

In a stone farmhouse on the Deeside Way, where the River Dee connects Banchory and Drumoak, the Hidden Scotland Shop curates small-batch design pieces from across Scotland. It offers a fresh take on tradition, with the style familiar to readers of the magazine.

Focus on Oban

A charming slice of coastal nature on Scotland’s west coast, Oban boasts a strong community spirit, great links to the nearby islands and some of the most dramatic and inspiring landscapes the highlands has to offer. Oban is a gorgeous destination for tourists looking to get away from it all, with plenty to see & do along the way.

Things to do

Mccaig’s Tower

Another great lookout point over the bay, McCaig's Tower was completed in 1902 and inspired by the grand colosseums of Italy and Greece. With beautiful views over the entire town, this Grade B listed historical monument is accessible by a 144 step Jacob’s Ladder. Look out for Misha, a friendly cat who wanders around McCaig’s Tower greeting visitors.

Pulpit Hill

239 feet above Oban Bay, the walk up Pulpit Hill is worth it for the stunning views at the top. One of the best lookout points in town, you can follow the footpath up the hill to get panoramic views over Oban and other nearby islands.

Hinba Coffee

With a coffee shop in Oban’s George Street, Hinba Coffee roasts its own beans, creating artisanal coffee for its customers. Blending together care and protection of the local environment, they aim to bring people together with their coffee, all roasted on the nearby island of Seil.

Oban Chocolate Company

Innovative ingredients make these handmade chocolates some of the best in Scotland – and you can sample them thanks to their namesake café. With views over Oban Bay, their extensive café menu offers coffee and tea, homemade cakes and, of course, chocolate!

Dunollie Castle

Just north of Oban is Dunollie Castle, a ruined fortress dating back all the way to the Middle Ages. Learn about 8000 years of history, including the story of the Clan MacDougall. There are guided tours, activities for kids, a Faerie Garden to explore and a gorgeous woodland trail surrounding the ruins.

The Oban Distillery

One of the smallest distilleries in Scotland, the Oban Distillery has been making whisky for over 200 years and is a central hub of the Oban community. Found just under a cliffside, you can tour the distillery and meet the seven people who produce their famous single malt scotch whisky.

Historic Kilbride

Argyll is renowned for its historic chapels, with Historic Kilbride standing out as a fascinating site. Visitors are often captivated by the ruins and the detailed stories shared by the enthusiastic guardian, Liam Griffin. Kilbride's rich history includes the burials of the MacDougall Chiefs and local legends such as Johnie with the Two Hearts. Liam, despite a leg injury, offers engaging tours accompanied by his yellow Labrador, bringing the site’s history to life. The combination of historical significance and Liam’s passionate storytelling makes Historic Kilbride a compelling destination for those interested in Scotland’s past.

The Milk Famine of Inverness

In the early 1700s, there was a farm near Inverness famous for its dairy cows, managed by a man known as Barron. He had arrived a few years earlier to lease the land and a mill from Robert Chevis, quickly making a name for himself in the quantity and quality of the milk that he delivered into town. Even the weakest, thinnest cows that Barron purchased suddenly became strong and profitable after grazing on his land.

Nobody knew how he did it, but it seemed as if the grass was enchanted. Maybe Barron wasn’t all he seemed or maybe he had some help from the fairies that everybody knew lived under nearby Tomnahurich Hill. Those rumours came to an abrupt end when Barron’s farm, along with all the other farms nearby, began to suffer from a milk famine.

On the surface of it, nothing had changed. The grass still looked lush and green, while the dairy cows seemed just as healthy, but for some reason, they wouldn’t produce a single drop. Children were crying out for milk to drink and parents were forced to walk for miles if they wanted to offer anything but water.

As the months wore on, whispers of witchcraft began to spread but thankfully there were no suspects to accuse. The land was blessed by holy men and counter-spells were cast, but the cows still grew thinner and no milk appeared. Then Barron realised that Chevis the landowner had been improving the forestry on his estate and amongst the new plantations were dozens of rowan trees.

Fairies hated rowan trees above all else and so if his blessing with milk came from those living under Tomnahurich, then maybe this curse was thanks to them as well. As Barron leant against one of those rowan trees pondering that thought, he saw a strange wee man wandering in his direction.

This was the smallest person he had ever seen, with a wizened old face but young, flowing hair. Over his shoulder was a long hawthorn branch, bending at the end under some enormous, invisible weight. Barron eyed the figure as he approached, but it seemed as if he was oblivious to the farmer’s presence.

Just as the hawthorn branch drew parallel to Barron, he whipped out his knife and sliced the end of it clean off. The small man carried on walking as if nothing had happened, but a rushing noise suddenly filled the air. Milk was pouring from the cut branch lying at Barron’s feet.

Faster than a raging torrent, the milk formed a stream that poured down the hillside into the River Ness, turning it white for days. It was everything that had been stolen over months of misery! The next day, the cows were back to normal and the children were happy once again. The milk famine was over and Barron’s land became more profitable than ever.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

This week I finally ticked off somewhere that’s been on my list of places to visit for a long time. For as much time as I’ve spent in Argyll, somehow I had never made it down to explore Kintyre.

When most people hear that name, Paul McCartney singing Mull of Kintyre begins playing in their head. My first stop on this trip around the peninsula was at Saddell Bay where the music video was filmed. Personally, I was more fascinated by the Anthony Gormley sculpture “Grip” that watches over the sandy beach.

Nearby, Saddell Abbey is mostly dilapidated, but there’s a shelter protecting an amazing collection of West Highland effigies. Lifesize warriors in mail, holding swords and spears are a reminder of this area’s violent past!

The main town in Kintyre is Campbeltown, a placename that whisky fans might recognise. Back in Victorian times, it was known as Whiskyopolis due to the numerous distilleries shipping spirit across to Glasgow. Once there were over 30 in Campbeltown, now there are only three, but you’ll still find it listed as an entire “whisky region”.

There’s more to experience in Campbeltown than distilleries though and it’s a beautiful town to wander. Unfortunately, I didn’t have time to stop for a film in Scotland’s oldest cinema but that’s another thing to add to my list. It’s important community establishments like that which will soon disappear without enough visitors to keep the doors open.

At the far south of Kintyre, there are two historically important sites standing alongside golden beaches. Dunaverty Rock looms over Southend, once an important MacDonald fortress and nearby you’ll find Columba’s carved footprint in the rock. Legend says that this was the first place the influential saint landed in Scotland, but because he could still see his home of Ireland, Columba kept moving to Iona.

My biggest piece of advice for anybody heading to the south of Kintyre is to stop into Muneroy Tearoom for a brownie! Travelling up the west side of the peninsula, stopping at standing stones and Machrihanish bird observatory along the way, I came almost full circle to Skipness.

The castle there is fantastic, with a huge curtain wall that lets your imagination take over. Open during the summer, a short climb up the spiral staircase led to the battlements of the towerhouse and spectacular views across the Kilbrannan Sound to Arran.

Back at ground level, armed with a plate of fresh langoustine from the Skipness Seafood Cabin, I was left to ponder one important question. Why on earth did it take me so long to visit Kintyre?

Written by Graeme Johncock

Corgarff Castle - Taken by Simon Hird

Did you know we published our first book this year?

Our first ever guidebook is still available from our online shop here, and also some shops including, Toppings and co, Waterstones, WHSmith, Lifestory, Tartan Blanket Co, The Blue Magpie, Typewronger Books, Meander, Royal Botanic Gardens, Beech & Birch and from our shop at Milton of Crathes in Banchory.

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