Issue 54

Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly

Sunday 11th Aug 2024
Today's weekly takes approx. 13 minutes to read.

Hi 👋

We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

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Have a great Sunday!

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. Still time to pre-order our Skye Book. Free gift with every order.

  2. Focus on Inverness

  3. The Milk Famine of Inverness

  4. Did You Know

  5. A Trip Through Time

  6. The Downfall of Sigurd the Mighty

  7. Free Wallpaper

  8. Quiz Answers

Last Chance to Pre-Order Our Skye Book.
Free gift with every order.

Be the first to get your hands on The Best of the Isle of Skye, Curated by Hidden Scotland and receive a free gift.

The Isle of Skye is a place of rare wonder, a wildlife-rich spread of bays, peaks, cliffs and ridges. The views are big, but the prospect of adventure is even bigger. We hope this curated Hidden Scotland guide – which takes in everything from the best walks to the finest restaurants – helps you to have your own unforgettable island escape.

1.Where will you find Scotland’s oldest working Post Office?

2.What establishment is famous for hosting weddings in Gretna Green?

3.Which two Edinburgh murderers infamously sold bodies to Edinburgh’s anatomy school?

Focus on Inverness

Inverness, the largest city in the Scottish Highlands, serves as a gateway to the stunning landscapes of northern Scotland. Nestled along the banks of the River Ness, it is renowned for its historical landmarks, including Inverness Castle and the 19th-century Inverness Cathedral. The city is a popular starting point for those exploring the nearby Loch Ness and its legendary monster. Inverness offers a variety of attractions, from the Victorian Market's shops and eateries to the vibrant arts scene at Eden Court Theatre. The city's rich history and scenic surroundings make it an ideal destination for visitors.

Things to do

Inverness Botanic Gardens

A tranquil oasis from the movement of the city, these botanic gardens are free for people to visit and take in the calm of nature. With parts of the gardens regenerated over the last two decades by the G.R.O.W Project, the space includes formal gardens, ponds with resident fish and a tropical and cactus house maintained by the Inverness Cactus & Succulent Society.

Inverness Castle

On a cliffside overlooking the River Ness, Inverness Castle in some form has stood on this site since the 11th century. Believed to have been built by Malcolm III, the castle has been destroyed and rebuilt multiple times by successive monarchs and rebels – including Mary, Queen of Scots. The castle also features on the back of the Scottish £50 note.

Inverness Museum and Art Gallery

Inverness Museum and Art Gallery offers a fascinating glimpse into the culture and history of the Scottish Highlands. Visitors can explore exhibits ranging from archaeology and natural history to art collections featuring local and contemporary artists. The museum provides an engaging experience, highlighting Inverness’s rich heritage and artistic endeavors.

Leakey's Bookshop

Complete with an open log fireplace, Leakey’s is the largest second-hand bookshop in Scotland. Over 100,000 books have been collected in this former Gaelic church, that was first opened to the public in 1979. Found in Inverness’s Old Town, it's something of a pilgrimage site for bookworms from all over the world.

PERK Coffee & Doughnuts

Artisanal, barista-style coffee and hand-made doughnuts – it’s no wonder PERK is such a local favourite. Their flavours are always experimental, from American influenced maple and bacon to unique blends like Mars Bar Cream, Lemon Meringue and an Instagram favourite Vegan Biscoff creation.

The Malt Room

Inverness’s first whisky bar, The Malt Room, is dedicated to serving a huge variety of whiskies from across the world. It has an intimate and cosy vibe that makes the perfect ambience to discover their selection, from malts to beers, wines and other spirits.

The Victorian Market

Expect a Highland Welcome at the Victorian Market, a covered market in the heart of Inverness. Featuring many independent cafes, shops and boutiques, you’ll be sure to find something unique here. The market first opened its doors to shoppers in the 19th century, fashioning itself on the preferred market arcades that had sprung up around the country.

The Blue Men of The Minch

There is a stretch of water between mainland Scotland and the Outer Hebrides that’s more treacherous than most. It’s not just unpredictable weather or unseen rocks that make the Minch so unsafe, these waters hold something far more dangerous. Sailors looking to take this passage through the Hebrides must contend with the Blue Men of The Minch.

These creatures of folklore aren’t found anywhere else in the world, making their home in hidden, underwater caves somewhere around the Shiant Isles. They look similar to humans, but with blue skin, long arms and the capacity for incredible feats of strength. Locals know better than to risk the Blue Men’s wrath and the possibility of being dragged down to a watery grave.

If the Blue Men are displeased for any reason, then they have the power to cause destructive storms and turbulent seas. Sailors feel their ship being violently rocked while their assailants speed along the waves around them. Muscular torsos rise out of the Minch to chase them down, while a churning mass of blue arms swarms the ship’s hull.

All isn’t lost if travellers do find themselves being preyed on by the Blue Men, there is one unusual way to fend them off. Their chief will often lift himself out of the water and challenge the ship’s captain to a battle of wits. Once he shouts out a rhyming couplet, the captain must then respond appropriately without hesitation.

Line after line is thrown back and forward in a relentless stream of poetry. If the mortal can match this peculiar sea creature, then he has earned their respect and will be allowed to pass through safely. If he fails, then the Blue Men are released and the ship will inevitably be dragged to the depths of The Minch.

If a crew is feeling brave and the captain subtle, then they might get lucky on their passage. When the weather is fair, the Blue Men can sometimes be spotted quietly sleeping, just under the surface. With a gentle wind on their side, they could hopefully slip by without even being noticed.

One particularly foolish group once decided to kidnap one of these sleeping figures, lifting him onto their deck. To be extra safe, they tied up their oblivious captive with every length of rope they could find on board. All they could think of was the fame and fortune that would come with being the first people ever to capture one of the famous Blue Men of The Minch.

They weren’t home and dry yet though, they’d been spotted. Two more Blue Men burst from the waves and quickly gained on the now terrified crew. The first cried out “Duncan will be one” with the other responding “Donald will be two.”

Their shouts woke up the prisoner, who stood up with a big yawn and effortless stretch. The mass of coiled rope snapped like old string and fell in a heap to the ground. Laughing to his companions, the Blue Man shouted “Big Iain needs no help” before diving back overboard into the Minch.

Did you know that Campbeltown was once known as Whiskyopolis?

The small community of Campbeltown on the Kintyre peninsula was once so full of distilleries that it became a whisky region in its own right. Its easy access to the Firth of Clyde meant that spirit from Campbeltown could reach Glasgow by boat in around half a day instead of the long, difficult journey faced by Highland or Speyside distilleries.

At its height, there were over 30 distilleries surrounding Campbeltown which led to it being known as Whiskyopolis or the Whisky Capital of the Victorian World. After the World Wars, most distilleries closed down, with only three remaining today, but the town still proudly holds onto its status as a dedicated whisky region.

On the 11th August 1306 – Robert the Bruce is badly beaten at the Battle of Dalrigh by Clan MacDougall and forced on the run.

On the 15th August 1057 – Malcolm Canmore defeats King Macbeth at the Battle of Lumphanan.

On the 15th August 1771 – Birth of Sir Walter Scott who would go on to change the idea of Scottish national identity forever.

On the 18th August 1966 – The opening of the Tay Road Bridge between Fife and Dundee.

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Recently, while exploring the beautiful Isle of Skye, I was lucky enough to escape the busy roads for somewhere much quieter. Just across the strait of Kyle Rhea lies the peaceful wee community of Glenelg. It’s one of my favourite areas anywhere in Scotland, partly because the journey there is a lot of fun, no matter which option you take.

Reaching Glenelg from the mainland takes you from the main route through Glen Shiel up a narrow, winding road over the Ratagan Pass. No matter how often I drive this way, I always stop at the top to admire the view of the Five Sisters of Kintail. Legend says there were once seven sisters, not mountains but real daughters of the chief of Kintail.

The youngest two were allowed to sail away with a couple of Irish princes who had promised to send their brothers back to marry the others. Those five remaining sisters spent so long waiting, gazing out to sea, that their father made a badly worded wish that they would keep their beauty until their Irishmen arrived. The next morning, he awoke to find his daughters transformed into these incredible mountains.

If you travel to Glenelg from Skye like I did on this trip, you have the pleasure of a trip on Scotland’s last turntable ferry! The community-run Glenelg ferry has no timetable, it just putters back and forth across the narrow gap all day long. Up to six cars drive along the ramp onto the platform before the crew manually swing it around 180 degrees so that when they reach the other side, you’re ready to drive straight off

For centuries, that crossing was the main route onto the Isle of Skye from the mainland and I was reminded of that on arrival into Glenelg village. The overgrown ruins of Bernera Barracks stand just outside the main street, built in 1723 to guard this strategic spot. It’s an almost carbon copy of the more famous Ruthven Barracks seen from the A9 near Kingussie.

While the barracks aren’t very accessible, I knew of two important historical monuments in Glenelg without any barriers. A quiet, winding drive led to Dun Troddan and Dun Telve – the Glenelg Brochs. Roughly 2000 years old, these are two of the best-preserved examples in Scotland and just a few hundred metres apart!

Brochs are drystone, Iron Age towers with a spiralling stone staircase fixed between inner and outer walls. More commonly found in Caithness, Sutherland and the Northern Isles, we don’t know much about how they were used, but at Glenelg I could ponder that question in the most peaceful of surroundings!

Glenelg

Bernera Barracks

Written by Graeme Johncock

Cairngorm Reindeer - Taken by Sam Rogers

Have you read issue 08? It’s still available to purchase.

It’s now been four years since our first issue appeared, back in the fateful early months of 2020, and it’s a source of real pride that the magazine continues to find a growing audience. But while four years can be seen as a long time in some contexts, in the case of Orkney – captured beautifully by seasoned National Geographic photographer Jim Richardson on pages 10-17 – such a timescale is a mere grain of sand in the hourglass of history.

As Jim explains, the distant past is still very much in evidence on the Orkney archipelago, and its islands now showcase a unique blend of tradition, modernity and prehistory. The concepts of ‘Auld and New’ also underpin another guest article in this issue – on pages 148- 153 – in which interior designer and online personality Banjo Beale discusses his love of collecting beautiful things.

Between these two absorbing features you’ll find pages packed with all manner of Scottish tales and topics, from whisky, folklore and regenerative farming to a focus on some of our most impressive botanic gardens. We also look at the reintroduction of wild beavers, take a deep-dive into the wonders of Fife and spotlight the remarkable Ploterre, a creative business inspired by nature.

Elsewhere you’ll find a fantastic recipe for foraged kelp miso ramen from Café Canna in the Inner Hebrides, as well as an overview of Scotland’s Little Free Libraries and a tour of the remarkable Royal Deeside – you’ll even learn more about our own Hidden Scotland Shop, set in an old farmhouse on the Deeside Way. And as ever, there’s more to discover too.

Thanks for reading. If you're interested in our brand new Isle of Skye guide, pre-order today to receive our Isle of Skye postcard set and pull-out illustrated map by illustrator Emily Hogarth. Pre-order here.

Quiz Answers

  1. Sanquhar

  2. Blacksmiths

  3. Burke & Hare

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