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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

We have begun shipping the Best of Skye Guidebook, if you have not already received your copy it should arrive very soon, you can still pick up the book here.

Have a great Sunday!

The Best of Skye Guide Book
^{Available now!}

The Isle of Skye is a place of rare wonder, a wildlife-rich spread of bays, peaks, cliffs and ridges. The views are big, but the prospect of adventure is even bigger. We hope this curated Hidden Scotland guide – which takes in everything from the best walks to the finest restaurants – helps you to have your own unforgettable island escape.

Rattray Head

Often overlooked in favour of the roller-coaster scenery of the west coast, Aberdeenshire’s coastline is a treasure. Stretching for some 165 miles, it ranges from long, soul-soothing strands of sand to craggy, cliff-backed coves. Picking an overall highlight is devilish work, but Rattray Head – which juts out into the North Sea as though trying to take a closer look at Norway – is unquestionably a prime contender.

Guarded by sand dunes up to 100 feet high, the beach here is a stunner: a colossal, cobweb-clearing stretch of golden sand. And while the giant dunes – topped by shaggy greenery and sculpted by the wind – create a dramatic backdrop, the starring role in the foreground goes to Rattray Head Lighthouse, positioned so prominently that it gets cut off from the rest of the coast at high tide.

The lighthouse dates back some 125 years and has the distinction of being a war survivor. The story goes that in September 1941, the lighthouse was circled by an enemy fighter plane that dropped three bombs and strafed the lantern with machine-gun fire. The fact that

it’s still standing strong today – crowned by a mustard-coloured lantern room and supported by a weighty brick base – tells you all you need to know about who won that particular battle.

You’ll find the beach itself some ten miles north of Fraserburgh, reachable along a lengthy stretch of minor road across the region’s grassy coastal flatlands. The rewards once you’re here are tangible, and to call it an inviting place to walk on a fine day would be an understatement. Whether you’re heading north or south, or just gazing out to sea and feeling the salty breeze in your hair, you’ll likely feel as though you have Scotland to yourself. 

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The Laird of Balmachie

The Laird of Balmachie was a devoted husband as well as a man of duty and responsibility. His wife was incredibly unwell, but he had been forced to attend urgent business in Dundee. Not wishing to be away from home any longer than necessary, the Laird left the safety of the roads for a shortcut across the hills.

As he galloped over the open landscape, he spotted a huddle of fairies carrying somebody wrapped up on a stretcher. It didn't matter that he was in a hurry anymore, his conscience wouldn't let him just pass on by. The Laird rushed over with sword drawn, placing it across the group before shouting "In the name of God, release your captive!"

Fairies can’t bear cold, hard iron and they immediately dropped their package, speeding off in all directions. The Laird was shocked when he saw who the fairies were carrying away to their kingdom. It was his very own wife lying there sleeping, still wrapped up in her bedsheets.

Abandoning all ideas of Dundee, the Laird managed to get his wife safely home before interrogating the servants. He roared questions at them, but they all stared back in confusion. The maid had only just checked and the Lady of the house was still tucked up in bed, safe and sound.

Fairies are full of tricks and the Laird of Balmachie knew them well. As he entered the bedroom, he stoked the fire in the hearth and went to inspect the bed’s occupant. It looked like his wife and it sounded just like her too. He suggested that she get out of bed to warm herself by the fire, but the figure replied that she was too weak to stand.

The Laird gently picked her up and walked over to the fireplace, but instead of heading towards the chair, he tossed her into the flames. The fairy imposter bounced out of the fire with a high-pitched squeal and shot up through the roof like a rocket!

The Laird's real wife eventually recovered, now safely back in her bed. However, the hole in the roof could never be fully mended. Every time it was patched up, a storm would blow open that reminder of their close call with the fairies.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

I’ve been doing so much travelling around Scotland lately, guiding visitors around lots of hidden spots with big stories, that I’d been sadly neglecting my better half. For those who don’t already know, that’s Molly the Labrador and I don’t know where I would be without her!

So, with a few days back home last week, it was time to make up for things with an adventure around our favourite spots in Fife.

We headed to Falkland first, a wee village that was once off the radar but has since benefited from the “Outlander effect”. Standing in for 1940s Inverness, the quaint cobbled streets around the main square are now frequently visited by those looking to walk in Jamie & Claire’s footsteps.

I grew up just a few miles away from Falkland, so I know that beyond the Outlander fans and the beautiful royal palace, lies one of the most beautiful walks in Fife. The trail around Maspie Den has been one of our favourites ever since Molly was a puppy. Laid out in the 19^th century as a pleasure walk for the grand Falkland House, it’s full of surprises.

You’ll walk through beautiful woodland, over ornate stone bridges and through tunnels in the hillside. All the while you’re following the course of the Maspie Burn and it cascades down in two waterfalls along the route. The path actually heads right around the back of the second falls!

If you’re feeling energetic, then you can head right up into the Lomond Hills from here, but with Molly now a respectable 13 years old, I wasn’t going to push things. Instead, we were off to any Labrador’s favourite location - the seaside.

Luckily, Fife isn’t short of options with King James VI once describing the region as “A beggar’s mantle fringed with gold”, referring to the numerous sandy beaches. One of the largest but rarely visited by non-Fifers is Leven Beach and Molly was quick to make splash on arrival.

This wide sandy stretch with its pleasant promenade was once a Victorian tourist hotspot and the views to Largo Law are stunning. It’s inspired various artists but most famously the work of local miner’s son turned bestseller Jack Vettriano. With the opening of a new train line out to Leven, it’s hoped that more people will head here for holidays by the seaside.

If you happen to see me and Molly while you’re there, make sure to come say hi!

Written by Graeme Johncock

River Garry - Taken by Simon Hird

Have you read issue 08? It’s still available to purchase.

We’re delighted to share with you the eighth edition of Hidden Scotland magazine. Welcome to our Spring/Summer 2024 issue. 

It’s now been four years since our first issue appeared, back in the fateful early months of 2020, and it’s a source of real pride that the magazine continues to find a growing audience. But while four years can be seen as a long time in some contexts, in the case of Orkney – captured beautifully by seasoned National Geographic photographer Jim Richardson on pages 10-17 – such a timescale is a mere grain of sand in the hourglass of history.

As Jim explains, the distant past is still very much in evidence on the Orkney archipelago, and its islands now showcase a unique blend of tradition, modernity and prehistory. The concepts of ‘Auld and New’ also underpin another guest article in this issue – on pages 148- 153 – in which interior designer and online personality Banjo Beale discusses his love of collecting beautiful things.

Between these two absorbing features you’ll find pages packed with all manner of Scottish tales and topics, from whisky, folklore and regenerative farming to a focus on some of our most impressive botanic gardens. We also look at the reintroduction of wild beavers, take a deep-dive into the wonders of Fife and spotlight the remarkable Ploterre, a creative business inspired by nature.

Elsewhere you’ll find a fantastic recipe for foraged kelp miso ramen from Café Canna in the Inner Hebrides, as well as an overview of Scotland’s Little Free Libraries and a tour of the remarkable Royal Deeside – you’ll even learn more about our own Hidden Scotland Shop, set in an old farmhouse on the Deeside Way. And as ever, there’s more to discover too.

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