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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

Have a great Sunday!

Issue 09 First Look!
^{Coming soon.}

We are launching the pre-order very soon, so stay tuned for an email detailing what’s in our Autumn/Winter 2024-25 issue.

All pre-orders will come with:

→ An 'Isle of Rùm' bookmark
→ A5 print of our front cover image

This will arrive wrapped in kraft tissue paper and sealed with a sticker. Available very soon.

5 Hidden Gems in Fife

History hangs like a sea-mist over this green, salty-aired slab of land between the Firth of Forth and the Firth of Tay. The so-called Kingdom of Fife – often known simply as ‘The Kingdom’ – spent around half a millennium as the home patch of the Scottish monarchy, and the peninsula still has a unique character. A place of mellow fishing villages and rolling farmland, of age-old abbeys and booming coastal views, the region is also famed worldwide as the home of golf. Mark Twain, who memorably described the sport as a ‘good walk spoiled’, clearly never visited Fife.

Visitors dreaming of striding along the fairways invariably focus their sights on the historical coastal town of St Andrews, where you’ll also find the third oldest university in the English-speaking world, various medieval remains, and windswept lengths of white sand. But while St Andrews is, without doubt, a first-rate charmer, it’s far from being the only Fife town worthy of your time. Culross, Aberdour, Dunfermline and Kirkcaldy – now there’s a varied bunch – are among those that all offer gems of their own.

And then, of course, there’s the East Neuk, a glorious stretch of coastline dotted with little red-roofed hamlets, cloaked in tales of the past, and laced together by the most scenic parts of the Fife Coastal Path. ‘Neuk’, incidentally, is an old word that translates as ‘corner’, and when seen on the map, the headland still juts into the North Sea as if determined to retain its old-world individuality.      

Venturing further inland, you’ll also discover that this is a part of the country with ample outdoor riches. A particular highlight comes in the form of the volcanic Lomond Hills – also known as the Paps of Fife – which loom above a 25-square-mile spread of lochs, moors and farmland, offering some spectacular day-walks and cycle routes. And, this being Fife, you’ll find plenty of places across the region to indulge in some seriously restorative food and drink.

Here are 5 places you may not have heard of

Abbot House

Resplendent behind a glowing pink exterior, Abbot House is thought to be the oldest building in Dunfermline. It dates back to around 1450 and was likely the residence of the abbot – being mere steps from the abbey itself – and its bulky stone walls were secure enough to survive the Great Fire of Dunfermline in 1624. Having spent several years closed due to a lack of funding, it’s now open to visitors once more.

St Fillan's Cave

Believed to be a kind of magical place, the cave was visited often by St Fillan, an Irish missionary who helped to bring Christianity to the residents of Fife in the 8th century. It’s believed he lived in the cave for some time, writing sermons by the light of his famous, luminous arm.

Welly Garden

A rainbow array of flora-filled wellington boots form the unlikely focal point of this seasonal attraction in St Monans, the bonkers-but-brilliant brainchild of a local schoolteacher, who found herself in possession of wellies that her grandchildren had outgrown. From small beginnings, the community became involved, and these days up to 200 pairs can be seen on the village slipway each summer.

Wemyss Caves

Proving that nature’s work is so often the greatest wonder of all, these six sea caves near the village of East Wemyss were shaped by the perennial battering of the elements and now form part of a designated national monument. Their damp, dark walls are covered in marks and inscriptions that hark back as far as the Bronze Age.

Standing Stones of Lundin

Standing Stones of LundinLundin Ladies Golf Club is one of the oldest courses in the world to have a wholly female membership. It’s also the only course in the world to have three megalithic standing stones in the middle of the second fairway. Dating back some 4,000 years and made of sandstone, the trio reach heights of up to 17 feet: golfing obstacles to some, prehistoric jewels to others. It’s possible to walk to see them if you ask at the hut by the entrance.

MacGillichallum The Witch Hunter

MacGillichallum of Raasay was a legendary Scottish witch hunter, relentless in his persecution of the darkest of arts. He was feared and hated by his prey in equal measure, with a reputation that spread across the Western Isles. He became so infamous among witches that eventually they banded together to turn the hunter into the hunted.

There wasn’t much sport on Raasay and so MacGillichallum and his friends decided to sail across to the Isle of Lewis one day on a hunting trip. The game was plentiful, the evening was merry and the plan had been to head home the next day after a good sleep.

However, the skies were looking fierce that morning and most of the group weren't sure about setting out to sea. MacGillichallum was keen to get home so he told them it was barely a breeze, but they wouldn't budge. He teased his friends for being cowards but that didn't work either. Eventually, at an inn by the harbour, he plied them all with whisky to see if that would bolster their courage.

When an old lady wandered inside, MacGillichallum called out for her opinion on the weather. She scoffed at the group for fearing a little rain, she'd only just arrived and the crossing had been fine. That was the final bit of encouragement needed and their leader was delighted when they finally cast the boat off.

His delight didn’t last for long. As soon as they were out of the safe harbour, the sea got choppier, the rain got heavier and the wind got stronger. MacGillichallum was an expert at the helm but even his bravado was starting to wear off. Just when the group decided to turn back and wait for calmer tides, a lone black cat appeared over the port side.

That certainly wasn’t normal, but the men had bigger things to worry about. Then a second cat suddenly appeared on their other side. MacGillichallum knew this meant trouble, but he had dealt with plenty of witches before, so he kept his cool. It was only when a third, then a fourth cat started climbing up the rigging that the hunter began to worry.

Soon the boat had more cats than men aboard and it was clear that old lady from the inn had been part of their trap. It was the appearance of one huge black feline, more like a panther, sitting on the masthead that really scared MacGillichallum. He knew now that they stood no chance of salvation.

With no other option, he did the only thing he could think off. Drawing his sword and with his men following suit, they rushed the group of witches to do as much damage as they could before they met their end. Dozens were slain, but the horde of cats still succeeded in capsizing the boat and dragging MacGillichallum of Raasay and his crew to a watery grave.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

If you’ve been keeping up with my weekly travels, you might remember that I spent last Sunday on the Holy Isle of Iona. Getting there and back involves a long drive through Mull, so I took advantage of the chance to spend a few days exploring Iona’s larger neighbour.

Mull is packed with history, scenery, beaches and lots of incredible food. When it comes to places to eat, you’re in for a treat right off the Iona ferry at the Creel Seafood Bar. On my last visit I grabbed the dressed crab but this time it was the best calamari I’ve ever eaten!

Rather than take the direct route back to Tobermory, I took the slow road. It’s one of my favourite drives anywhere in Scotland, with amazing sea views as you pass mountains like Ben More and skirt the base of soaring cliffs. I’m never so distracted by the scenery that I don’t watch for the sheep that have a habit of wandering onto the road though!

With food and scenery ticked off my list, history was up next with a visit to Duart Castle. This 700-year-old stronghold is the ancestral home of Clan MacLean and everything a castle should be. It has strong walls built on a crag overlooking the sea, and plenty of stories can be found inside.

The castle was ruined by the mid-1700s, the MacLeans suffering the loss of their home after supporting the Jacobites. Amazingly, around 100 years ago, the MacLean chief bought back his ancestral home and with the help of the clan, it’s undergone an incredible restoration.

For this trip to Mull, I was staying in the main town of Tobermory further north along the coast from Duart. There’s something about seeing the postcard-worthy brightly coloured houses across the bay here that always makes me smile.

What lots of visitors to Tobermory might not know is that a Spanish ship sits somewhere at the bottom of that bay. It was part of the defeated Armada and although badly damaged, managed to limp around the north of Scotland to arrive at Mull in 1588.

Lachlan Mor MacLean agreed to help repair the ship, as long as the captain donated 100 of his soldiers to help with their feud with the MacDonalds. When the time came for the Spanish to head home, Lachlan didn’t want to give up his new fighting force. Some say he was the reason the ship mysteriously exploded as it tried to leave the bay.

Local legend says it was carrying a fortune in gold and although it’s never been found, that doesn’t mean it’s not there…

Written by Graeme Johncock

Braemar Castle

The Best of Skye Guide Book
^{Available now!}

The Isle of Skye is a place of rare wonder, a wildlife-rich spread of bays, peaks, cliffs and ridges. The views are big, but the prospect of adventure is even bigger. We hope this curated Hidden Scotland guide – which takes in everything from the best walks to the finest restaurants – helps you to have your own unforgettable island escape.

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