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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

Have a great Sunday!

Have you ordered issue 09?

This is the ninth edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine, and the articles dive into some of the country’s most spectacular corners. We head, for example, to the often overlooked Small Isles with photographer Simon Hird, whose images and recollections not only conjure the archipelago’s tranquillity but introduce some of its remarkable characters.

Also on the coast, we give an overview of ten of Scotland’s most historical fishing towns and villages – from picture-perfect Plockton to far-flung Portmahomack – and take a detailed look at the stirring highlights of the Moray region, where whisky distilleries, salmon streams and windblown shorelines concoct an atmosphere of rare drama.

Scotland is nothing, of course, without the people who call it home. In this issue, we talk to illustrator and shop-owner Tori Gray, who shares her love of homeware, the Highlands and life in the Black Isle; meet writer and researcher Kat Hill, whose book ‘Bothy’ is a fascinating celebration of the history and culture of the country’s bothies; and hear from iconic designers Paul Simmons and Alastair McAuley, the men behind Glasgow studio Timorous Beasties.

Elsewhere, we rejoice in the nocturnal awe of Scotland’s best stargazing sites, delve into the joys of after-dark wildlife-spotting, profile award-winning landscape artist Ellis O’Connor, spotlight some of Scotland’s most impressive interiors, and follow writer Lucy Gillmore as she joins a ‘wild wellness’ retreat.

You’ll also find no shortage of other treats along the way, from walking guides and tales of folklore to a simple but sensational recipe for roast potato and herb gnocchi with sage-fried butter – the perfect dish for the colder months.

And as ever, we hope this issue brings you warmth and inspiration, wherever you are.

If you would like to get your hands on a copy, follow the link below.

Duntulm Castle - Skye’s Most Haunted Location

Perched on a cliff near Skye’s most northerly point, Duntulm Castle has a fascinating reputation. Not just as a formidable fortress with a very long history, but as a home to more than its fair share of ghosts.

Long before the medieval castle, an Iron Age broch took advantage of this strategic position. For hundreds of years, while Skye was firmly under Viking influence, those Norsemen utilised the old stone towers themselves. Eventually, Duntulm Castle began to take a more recognisable shape after the powerful Clan MacLeod moved in.

They might have built the castle we see today, but they weren’t the only family to live there. Epitomising the long-running conflict that dominates the island’s history, Duntulm Castle was passed unwillingly to the MacLeod’s arch-nemesis, Clan MacDonald.

By 1730 even the MacDonalds had abandoned this windswept stronghold and it was left to slowly tumble into the sea. It may well have been too old-fashioned or uncomfortable for them now that they weren’t under constant threat of attack. However, if the stories are to be believed, then the real reason may have been that Duntulm Castle was overrun with restless spirits.

One common, ghostly visitor to the ruins is the treacherous Hugh MacDonald, a man who was determined that he should lead the MacDonalds of Sleat. His attempt to seize control and become clan chief failed and instead the traitor was imprisoned in the dungeons of Duntulm. To ensure an agonising death, Hugh was given nothing but salted beef to eat, without a drop of water to wash it down. The rasping groans of his thirsty spirit can still be heard around the clifftop.

Joining Hugh is Margaret MacLeod, seen amongst the ruins of Duntulm weeping from her single eye. Her mistreatment at the hands of her husband, a MacDonald chief, was the match that lit the fuse of the ferocious War of the One-Eyed Woman.

Donald Gorm the 8th MacDonald Chief has a less tragic story even though he’s known as a much more aggressive ghost. Donald enjoyed nothing more than the clash of battle and his life was defined by the many conflicts he both won and lost. When he couldn’t find any MacLeods to pick on, he liked to start fights with his own clansmen just for fun. He still stomps around Duntulm Castle in a loud, drunken manner trying to find one last brawl.

The final ghost has the most upsetting story of them all. While the high cliffs of Duntulm are perfect for defence, they also made it a very dangerous place to live. A careless nursemaid once dropped the baby of a MacDonald chief from one of the window ledges. It was a tragic accident, but that didn’t stop the nurse from being killed as a punishment. Her ghost haunts the castle ruins and the cliffs below, desperately searching for the child.

With walls filled with this much tragedy and so many restless spirits roaming the halls, it’s no wonder that Duntulm Castle didn’t have enough room for the living anymore.

To learn more and to read more stories about Skye, check our our brand new book.

The Determined Kelpie of the River Conon

The River Conon looks calm and peaceful on the surface, but beneath the dark water hides an even darker Kelpie.

One day some men were working in a field next to the river when they heard a mysterious voice boom out at midday, "The hour has come but not the man". Shocked by the interruption they turned to see who was disturbing their work. A terrifying Kelpie in the shape of a powerful black stallion was standing in the shallows of the River Conon, where travellers would ford their way across.

As abruptly as it had arrived, the Kelpie plunged into deeper water and disappeared. The locals were confused, but one thing was certain, none would be crossing the river for at least the next hour. Soon a galloping noise came from behind and they thought that the beast had come back for them. Thankfully, it was just a stranger riding as fast as he could towards the river crossing.

The men all ran out onto the road to warn him of the Kelpie's words, but he wouldn't listen to silly superstitions. That stranger would have plunged straight into the River Conon had four of the men not physically dragged him from his horse. To keep the man safe from himself, he was locked in the old church nearby. Ignoring his shouts of rage and thumps on the barred door, the locals went back to the field and carried on with their work.

Once the hour was over, the river should have been safe to cross again so the stranger could finally be released to finish his journey. By now the church was deadly silent and the men hoped that the traveller had just given up his complaining. They unlocked the door but still, there wasn’t the slightest noise.

Peering inside they found the body of the man, face down in a low water trough. Nobody knew how or why, but the determined Kelpie had managed to claim its victim.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Anybody who loves books and reading will want to hear about what I got up to last week! As I was exploring rural Perthshire, a spontaneous decision led me to Innerpeffray, which ended up being the highlight of my entire trip. At the end of a long lane, beside a historic churchyard, stands Scotland’s oldest free lending library.

In 1680, Lord David Drummond founded Innerpeffray Library when he put his vast collection of books into the loft of St Mary’s Chapel. It was free for any members of the public to come and borrow a volume, an innovative idea at the time. While literacy was already high in Scotland, only the wealthy could afford more than a couple of books.

Less than 100 years later, David’s descendant constructed the purpose- built Innerpeffray Library that’s still in use today. I’d visited before but only when the library closed up. This time, I was shown around by the current Keeper of the Books, who pointed out some of the more interesting items in the collection, like the 1540s copy of Histories of our Times, still wrapped in its original vellum.

While we can’t take the books home today, this is still a library, not a museum. Visitors can pick up and read the books, with extreme care of course, and don’t be surprised to find people studying from the collection! As an author, it was an incredibly special place to visit.

Still glowing from holding an almost 500-year-old book, it was time to stretch the legs. The drive to Aberfeldy is a beautiful one, through the scenic Sma’ Glen where the legendary Gaelic bard Ossian is said to be buried beneath a huge boulder. A local rhyme tells us, “In this place, remote from men, Sleeps Ossian in the narrow glen.”

However, I was following in the footsteps of another, slightly more modern bard. In 1787, as part of a tour of the Scottish Highlands, Robert Burns spent time walking amongst the birch trees that lined the Falls of Moness. Inspired by the natural beauty, he sat down and penned his song, “The Birks of Aberfeldy”.

Clearly, Burns had excellent taste because the walk up to the top of the waterfall is an incredible, albeit steep, one. If you can’t make the whole climb then don’t worry, before long you’ll spot a bench with a statue of Scotland’s National Poet to keep you company.

It was a warm day for early autumn and while catching my breath above the highest waterfall, Burns’ words came to mind. Nothing could be done about the midges, but at least the shade was welcome as I found myself “Overhung wi’ fragrant spreading shaws, The Birks of Aberfeldy”.

Written by Graeme Johncock

The Bay Fish and Chips - Calum Richardson

Stonehaven’s multi-award-winning The Bay Fish and Chips is committed to sustainability, serving catch straight from the front door. It all comes down to the location, says owner Calum Richardson, as he shares the best of Stonehaven.

The Bay in Stonehaven in Aberdeenshire might be the most ideally situated fish and chip shop: on the seafront, with views of the pebble beach and cliffs, and so close to the shore that “some days the sea is literally at the doorstep”, says owner Calum Richardson, two-times UK Young Fish Frier of the Year, who opened The Bay in 2006.

It has since won award after award: the likes of Fish and Chip Shop of The Year at the National Fish and Chip Shop Awards 2013 and Cateys 2020 (which Calum describes as The Oscars of the hospitality industry), as well as a recent listing as one of the world’s top food experiences by Lonely Planet. “We are continually striving to improve,” says Calum, whose passion for food was inspired by his Nana. “It’s about never standing still and the willingness to learn.” 

A key part of his business is sustainability: the battered haddock “comes straight from the front door” and the digital menu displays the boats the day’s fish came in on. All the fish is from sustainable stocks. “It comes from being right on the waterfront – everything that goes down the drain goes to where we catch our fish from,” he explains. “We want to future-proof the business so the resources are here for future generations.” 

Calum was brought up in Stonehaven and, apart from almost 10 years in the Royal Navy, has always lived there. He describes it as a “fantastic place with so much to offer – friendly people, great businesses and amazing views”. And that’s without mentioning the sensational fish and chips!

Calum’s Stonehaven

Dunnottar Castle is number one – it’s a ruined medieval fortress on a headland, surrounded on three sides by the North Sea.

I’d also recommend the Open Air Swimming pool (the UK's only Art Deco Olympic-sized heated sea water lido), the harbour, and of course the beachfront and all the businesses there. 

Plockton by Simon Hird

Our 2025 Calendar – Limited Stock!

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2025. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

Do you enjoy these weekly emails? we would be very grateful if you’re able to write a review for us, please do so here.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!