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We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.

Have a great Sunday!

Have you ordered issue 09?

This is the ninth edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine, and the articles dive into some of the country’s most spectacular corners. We head, for example, to the often overlooked Small Isles with photographer Simon Hird, whose images and recollections not only conjure the archipelago’s tranquillity but introduce some of its remarkable characters.

Also on the coast, we give an overview of ten of Scotland’s most historical fishing towns and villages – from picture-perfect Plockton to far-flung Portmahomack – and take a detailed look at the stirring highlights of the Moray region, where whisky distilleries, salmon streams and windblown shorelines concoct an atmosphere of rare drama.

Scotland is nothing, of course, without the people who call it home. In this issue, we talk to illustrator and shop-owner Tori Gray, who shares her love of homeware, the Highlands and life in the Black Isle; meet writer and researcher Kat Hill, whose book ‘Bothy’ is a fascinating celebration of the history and culture of the country’s bothies; and hear from iconic designers Paul Simmons and Alastair McAuley, the men behind Glasgow studio Timorous Beasties.

Elsewhere, we rejoice in the nocturnal awe of Scotland’s best stargazing sites, delve into the joys of after-dark wildlife-spotting, profile award-winning landscape artist Ellis O’Connor, spotlight some of Scotland’s most impressive interiors, and follow writer Lucy Gillmore as she joins a ‘wild wellness’ retreat.

You’ll also find no shortage of other treats along the way, from walking guides and tales of folklore to a simple but sensational recipe for roast potato and herb gnocchi with sage-fried butter – the perfect dish for the colder months.

And as ever, we hope this issue brings you warmth and inspiration, wherever you are.

If you would like to get your hands on a copy, follow the link below.

The Battle of Culloden

By April 1746, a Jacobite army led by Bonnie Prince Charlie had marched from Glenfinnan down to Derby and all the way back north to Inverness. They were yet to lose a battle, but supplies were running low and hundreds of their soldiers were scattered around the country. In their disorganised state, retreat would have been the sensible option in the face of a large government army, but the Prince couldn’t afford to abandon the city.

Morale in the government camp was high, the soldiers were well-fed, rested and on the 15th of April, they even held a celebration for their commander the Duke of Cumberland’s birthday. That gave the Jacobite commanders an idea. The plan was to surprise the merry, drunken troops in the darkness, defeating them before they had a chance to react.

Unfortunately for the Jacobites, they were so concerned about being spotted by the Royal Navy waiting in the Moray Firth, that they left far too late. Stumbling across difficult terrain in total darkness, the ambushers were slow to arrive at the government lines. In the end, they turned back without making any contact and hundreds of exhausted, starving Jacobites would miss the upcoming battle as they searched for food or caught up on sleep.

By the middle of that day, roughly 9000 government soldiers lined up at Culloden opposite 5000 Jacobites. It wasn’t an ideal battlefield for Prince Charles’ side, far too open and flat, where simple strength in numbers could easily come out on top. The first action of the battle was a short artillery exchange, but the boggy moorland soaked up much of the damage, without either side making a serious impact.

Soon, the Jacobites surged forward with their fearsome Highland Charge. They raced towards their opponents, firing a single volley before charging into the confusion with sword and dirk swinging. It had won them every battle so far, but the government lines were expecting it this time. Their artillery switched to canister shot and hundreds of balls spread out from the cannon’s barrels, shredding anything in front of it.

Clan chiefs charging at the front of their men were some of the first to fall, destroying both morale and leadership. Even under the barrage, the Jacobite right wing still managed to cause carnage, however, the left was slowed by the poor ground and came to a standstill. Unable to move forwards, they fled backwards, leaving those who had already engaged isolated and quickly defeated.

The Battle of Culloden had been lost, but Charles was still determined to rally his soldiers and charge to death or glory. Wiser heads prevailed and his generals dragged the Prince away from the battlefield as Irish and French regiments covered the retreat. Around 1500-2000 Jacobites were killed or wounded on that day as opposed to roughly 300 government soldiers.

While some were determined to keep the fight alive, the now infamous battle marked the end of the Jacobite risings. It’s said that Culloden is such a place of sadness that no birds sing around its moors and that every year on the anniversary of the battle, those who died are doomed to rise and fight once again.

Brownie of Fincastle Mill

Fincastle Mill was always said to be haunted so nobody would dare set foot in it after dark. Long after the miller had gone home, the machinery could still be heard clanking away in the darkness.

One night a girl was making a cake for her wedding the next day, when she discovered that she was short of flour. Not wanting to disturb anybody late at night, she crept into the mill to grind some herself. She lit a fire and placed a pot of water to boil, but just as she got to work a Brownie appeared.

This little creature worked the mill at night in return for a simple meal and as much flour as he wanted. Seeing the millstones turning, the proud Brownie was offended that the girl was doing his work. In return, she was shocked to find this strange figure beside her.

He asked what her who she was, and the girl nervously replied, "Oh just me, myself". Getting angrier, the Brownie shuffled forward and shouted the question again but once more she replied "me, myself". Unsure if she was making fun of him or simply didn’t understand, the now furious Brownie roared that she must tell him her name! Just as she gave him the same answer as before, she threw the pot of boiling water in his face and watched him run out the door, screaming into the night.

The Brownie was badly injured and fled all the way back to his mother Maggie Moulach. Seeing her son covered in burns, she demanded to know who had injured him so badly. With his very last breath, the poor Brownie whispered “Me, myself”. Maggie assumed that it been her son’s own fault and although tragic, she had to accept his death.

The girl in the mill completed her cake and married the next day. She would often brag to her friends about the time she tricked the Brownie, laughing at the story and rejoicing in her own wit. Years later, Maggie Moulach was walking past a window when she heard the girl telling her favourite story. Filled with rage, she picked up a stool and threw it with such force that it killed the girl instantly, finally getting her revenge.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Where does a Scottish tour guide go in Scotland for their own holidays? In my case, every single year, the answer is Applecross.

I don’t know what it is about this little corner of the country, but it feels like a very special place. Maybe it’s the views across to Skye or that it feels tucked away in a hidden, wee corner. More likely, it’s the fact that getting there is an adventure!

With Molly the Labrador along for the ride, my friend and I started the long journey from Fife to Applecross. Apart from a quick stop at Glencoe Lochan to stretch the legs and Eilean Donan Castle for an obligatory picture, we made good time to bottom of the Bealach na Ba.

It’s one of the most famous roads in Scotland, the single track winding up between the mountains and often above the clouds. Bealach na Ba means Pass of the Cattle in Gaelic and until fairly recently, this was the only way in and out of the Applecross Peninsula. In poor weather, the road was closed and the community shut off.

There’s a coastal road now, but that’s nowhere near as fun as navigating these hairpin bends and resting at the top to admire the view! Since our day was wearing on, we got back onto the road to enjoy some more stunning landscapes while descending to the Applecross Campsite.

After settling into one of the dog-friendly camping pods, it was down to the famous Applecross Inn. Fortunately, we had booked our spot for dinner months ago because even midweek in October, the pub was packed. Anybody not fortunate enough to eat inside was treated to an incredible sunset over the water to Raasay and Skye!

Molly was forced to watch on in envy as I enjoyed the same meal I do almost every year - langoustine followed by steak. Locally sourced and expertly cooked, washed down by Scottish cider and followed by cranachan and a couple of drams. Good thing the campsite was only a few minutes’ hike up the hill, although the sound of stags roaring in the darkness made us walk that wee bit faster.

The next morning broke bright, clear and surprisingly warm so it was time to blow the cobwebs away at the big sandy beach known simply as “Sand”. A tiny semi-restored cottage alongside the bay was actually the reason I first heard of Applecross.

This was where a TV show called “Monty Halls’ Great Escape” was filmed, with the marine biologist bunking down in this remote spot for 6 months, recreating the life of a local crofter. Standing outside that wee cottage, looking past the overgrown veg patch towards the mountains of Skye, I couldn’t think of a more perfect spot anywhere in Scotland.

Written by Graeme Johncock

Fiona Lee - Kirkcudbright Art Tours and St. Michael’s Church, Dumfries

Fiona Lee’s popular Kirkcudbright Art Tours are on hold while she turns her attention to the ‘Queen of the South’, Dumfries, and its oldest church – with a spectacular graveyard.

“The graveyard of St. Michael’s Church in Dumfries is as beautiful as any art gallery,” says Fiona Lee. A-listed and stretching over acres, “it houses the headstones of around 3,000 dreamless sleepers, including Scottish Bard Robert Burns and his family”. But, she adds, it is estimated that a further 80,000 souls lie in this site, revealing stories that “illustrate so many facets of Scottish history – links to Empire, The East India Company, Bonnie Prince Charlie, the Cholera Epidemic and much more”.

Fiona runs guided tours of the church and its graveyard, taking in items of artistic and historical significance. “Particularly striking within the kirk are the stained glass windows and connections to Robert Burns, who lived the last seven years of his life in Dumfries and worshipped here with his family,” says Fiona.

St. Michael’s is the oldest church in Dumfries, built from 1741 to 1746, and is the third Christian church on the site. “The earliest records go back more than a millennium,” explains Fiona. “There is evidence of a sanctuary being established here by St. Ninian (circa 390 AD) as a resting place for pilgrims. Even further back, it may have been the site of Druid worship.”

Its location, near the River Nith, she says, marks the beginning of the ancient story of Dumfries – the ‘Queen of the South’ – which has one of the richest histories in Scotland. Fiona herself is “lucky enough” to live in a house first owned by Dr. William Maxwell. “Physician to Robert Burns himself,” she explains.

Fiona moved to Dumfries from Kirkcudbright, where she ran the much-loved Kirkcudbright Art Tours, currently on hold. “With so many talented – and sometimes eccentric – artists to focus on, both past and present, there was a wealth of stories to share,” she remembers.

But Dumfries is her focus for now. “Like many places, it has fallen victim to out-of-town shopping and a decline of its town centre,” she says. “There is still, however, wonderful architecture, a fascinating past and a burgeoning future ahead of it.”

Fiona’s top nine things to do in Dumfries

1. St. Michael’s Church Sunday Service

There is a Sunday Service at 11am each week and you will always be given a warm welcome. There are growing number of activities for both locals and visitors. Follow on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100072257532205) for the latest events.

2. The Globe Inn

Robert Burns’ favourite ‘howff’, now a bar, restaurant and museum. www.globeinndumfries.co.uk

3. Dumfries Museum and Camera Obscura

Within a converted windmill, it houses a fabulous observatory. There is also a Riverside Walk and home of Robert Burns, managed by the museum.

www.dgculture.co.uk

4. Gracefield Arts Centre

Permanent and visiting exhibitions.

www.dgculture.co.uk

5. Caerlaverock Castle

For scenic and medieval history.

www.historicenvironment.scot

6. Mostly Ghostly Tours

Historical and faintly ghostly tours.

Facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mostlyghostlytours/?_rdr

7. Crichton Gardens

Stunning grounds and facilities that once housed a ‘mental asylum’.

www.crichton.co.uk

8. Usual Place

Popular for lunch or coffee. www.theusualplace.org

9. Cairndale Hotel

The best in town, especially for spa lovers. www.cairndalehotel.co.uk

Find out more www.stmichaelsdumfries.co.uk and www.kirkcudbrigharttours.co.uk

Drummond Castle Gardens by Simon Hird

Our 2025 Calendar – Limited Stock!

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2025. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

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