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Issue 67
Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly
Isle of Skye Special Edition
Today's weekly takes approx. 15 minutes to read.
Hi đ
We hope you're having a wonderful weekend! Today's weekly email is an Isle of Skye special edition to celebrate the launch of our brand new Isle of Skye gift box (more on this below). We have partnered up with some of our favourite Isle of Skye businesses in the creation of this very limited edition box, and we really hope you love it! As you may already know, Skye is a very special place for many reasons, and we have included some wonderful stories and articles below as well as introductions to some of the people who help make Skye so special.
Happy reading and enjoy your day :)
Whatâs in this weekâs email.
Win a 3 Night Stay on the Isle of Skye
The Isle of Skye Gift Box
The Castles of Skye
Kayti and Luke of SkĂĆ Pottery
Dream Makers of Skye
Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock
Jennifer Pearson of Ăr Skye
The Best Cafés in Skye
Free Wallpaper
The Best of Skye: Curated by Hidden Scotland
Quiz Answers
Win a 3 Night Stay on the Isle of Skye
Harlosh and Hidden Scotland have come together to celebrate the launch of The Best of Isle of Skye Gift Box by offering you the chance to stay in this stunning contemporary coastal home in a dramatic location on the island - for up to six people. Wood h provides an open plan, contemporary space for families, small gatherings or even just the two of you.
Product of the week - The Isle of Skye Gift Box
Welcome to our limited edition Isle of Skye Gift Box, which is inspired by our brand new guide book sharing the very best places to visit while on Skye. We have been working with two of the very best artisans from Skye, SkĂĆ Pottery and Birch Coffee, to create some beautiful gifts to go alongside our guide book, all come wrapped by hand and presented in a Hidden Scotland gift box.
Castles of Skye
Another shattered waterside castle, its ruined remnants deeply evocative of battles past, Dunscaith sits on an offshore crag and was abandoned in the 17th century. If youâre wondering about the preponderance of similarly named fortresses, incidentally, âdunâ translates as âcastleâ.
Duntulm Castle
This decaying clifftop stronghold is as atmospheric as they come. First fortified in the Iron Age, it subsequently passed hands between different movers and shakers, with the MacDonalds of Sleat among its later long-term residents. Itâs said to be haunted.
Duntulm Castle
Dunvegan Castle & Gardens
The seat of the mighty Clan MacLeod since way back in the 13th century, and still slung imposingly across a rocky coastal outcrop, this very much intact fortress is one of Skyeâs big historical draws, with decorated interiors, princely gardens and no shortage of stirring stories to tell.
Dunvegan Castle
Armadale Castle & Gardens
A ruined fortress, a coastal location and 40 acres of stately woodland gardens combine to turn Armadale Castle into one of the chief attractions on the Sleat peninsula. The castle dates back to the 19th century and was once the seat of the Macdonald clan; on a fine day itâs mighty picturesque.
Armadale Castle
Dunscaith Castle
Another shattered waterside castle, its ruined remnants deeply evocative of battles past, Dunscaith sits on an offshore crag and was abandoned in the 17th century. If youâre wondering about the preponderance of similarly named fortresses, incidentally, âdunâ translates as âcastleâ.
Dunscaith Castle
Knock Castle
The Skye shoreline isnât short on crumbling castles. It takes an effort to reach this onetime base of the MacDonalds, but the rewards come in the form of battle-scarred masonry, quiet cliffs, and stirring views from the Sleat coast.
Knock Castle
Brochel Castle
Few ruins on the Scottish islands can top Brochel Castle for mood and majesty. Located along Calumâs Road as it veers towards Raasayâs east coast, the castle occupies the summit of an improbably tall volcanic crag, from where it once held sway over the comings and goings on the water. Its design, dating back to around 1510, is ingenious.
Brochel Castle
1.Which historic castle on the Isle of Skye is a significant tourist attraction and former seat of Clan MacLeod?
2.What is the name of the scenic coastal village known for its colorful houses and fishing industry?
3.Which mountain range on the Isle of Skye is popular among climbers and hikers?
Kayti and Luke of SkĂĆ Pottery
Black clay beakers, cracked like Skyeâs basalt rocks. Glazes inspired by the colour of foraged seaweed. Raffia vases and coral mugs. âWe are definitely influenced by the landscape around us,â says Kayti, one half of the potter duo behind SkĂĆ Pottery, overlooking Loch Bay on the Waternish Peninsula. The other half is her partner Luke, and though the couple moved from York, youâd never guess theyâd been anywhere but Skye.
Kayti likes to work with organic shapes and mark-making techniques; Luke is inspired by minimalist design and brutalist architecture. âWe both love leaving elements of our pieces raw and unglazed so you can feel the texture of the clay when you hold them,â says Kayti. Above all, the pieces should be practical â âto be enjoyed and used dailyâ.
Their work recently caught the eye of Scott Davies, head chef at the world-famous Three Chimneys in Colbost. âHe popped into the studio one day and took a load of pieces to play with,â remembers Kayti. They then designed a range of ceramics to work with a new menu for The Three Chimneysâ pop-up dining experience at Talisker Distillery. âScott had a vision for what our dishes would be used for, like the show-stopping smoked venison,â says Kayti.
As well as local produce â âtry the trout from Isle of Skye Smokehouse,â suggests Kayti â the collaboration showcases other local craftspeople. Kayti likes the work by Skye Weavers. âThey have a brilliant showroom you can visit to see the fabrics being made on the pedal-powered loom,â she says. And âdefinitely take home a tin of Isle of Skye Sea Salt, as itâs the key to all the best dishes on the island!â
SkĂĆ is one of the old Norse spellings of Skye. Itâs a name that connects Kayti and Luke to the island. âSkye feels like home. We feel like this is where we need to be and where we should be,â she says.
Dream Makers of Skye
Dream Makers of Skye by Emily Hogarth
The Isle of Skye is a mystical place, full of stories, magic and danger. People often went missing amongst the jagged peaks of the Cuillins, but the girl picking berries there was so engrossed in her work that she hadnât realised how high she had wandered.
When she looked up, she found herself completely lost and surrounded by a thick fog. Turning around, the girl almost screamed when she dozens of eyes peering at her, before realising it was just a herd of deer.
With few options, the girl followed them deeper into the mountains and eventually into a cave where an ancient man and woman sat. Clearing her throat, the young girl asked if she could stay, just for a night.
The answer came: âEither stay and work for a year and a night or leave now.â
Every day she would help the woman pick herbs, milk deer and make soft cheese. Every night, the old man would stare into the pool while moulding that cheese into shapes.
He would raise these creations above his head as birds swooped in to grab them. They were dreams, made with inspiration from the Pool of Life. Beautiful birds would grab the sweet, pleasant dreams from the manâs right hand while from the left, dark crows would pluck terrifying nightmares.
It was the same every day until a year and a night had passed. When the time came for the girl to leave, the old woman told her she would soon be rewarded for her efforts. With that, the deer led her safely away down a track.
Eventually, she arrived at an unfamiliar shore where a small boat was approaching fast. A handsome young man leapt from the vessel, ran over and fell at her feet. He declared that he had followed his dreams of her for a year and a night and if she was willing, he would make her a queen.
Something about the man spoke to her soul and she willingly sailed away to her new home. The girl from Skye was adored by all, for more than just her kindness, but because she could teach them the meaning of their dreams.
Words by Graeme Johncock
Dunvegan Castle is the oldest inhabited castle in Scotland, still lived in by the Chiefs of Clan MacLeod after 800 years.
The Duirinish Standing Stone on Skye might look ancient, but locals raised it by hand in the year 2000 to mark the Millennium.
Itâs said that 3000 people attended Flora MacDonaldâs funeral at Kilmuir cemetery and during the wild party that followed, they drank 300 gallons of whisky to her memory.
The tiny St Columbaâs Isle in the middle of the River Snizort was once home to the primary church for the Bishop of the Isles, known as Snizort Cathedral.
The two-mile long Calumâs Road connecting the northern communities of Raasay was built almost single-handedly by crofter Calum MacLeod after the local authority refused to finance it.
Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock
Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.
Last week saw me take my final guided tour of the year before attractions, cafés and accommodation start to close down for the winter season. The weather was wild, the roads were quiet and daylight was short. Fortunately, Scotland is incredible no matter the season!
Starting in Edinburgh and the Borders before heading across for a couple of days around Oban, we finished with a trip up to the Isle of Skye. While the crowds on the island were far smaller than Iâve seen, Iâm not sure if thatâs to do with the time of year or the torrential forecast rain!
The heavens opened as we trudged down to the Fairy Pools. I did my best to shout the story of the War of the One Eyed Woman over the sound of the wind as we struggled on with hoods up. The Woman was Margaret, sister to the chief of the MacLeods who had been married to the chief of the MacDonalds to try and broker peace.
Unfortunately, she lost an eye during her marriage and the MacDonalds sent her home on a one-eyed horse, accompanied by a one-eyed man and a one-eyed dog. The brutal war that followed that insult had its final battle by the Fairy Pools at Coire na Creiche! I donât think the water was very blue-green that dayâŠ
Ignoring my waterlogged kilt, we headed over to warm up with a dram at the Talisker Distillery before lunch at the Oyster Shed. Itâs one of my favourite places for a seafood lunch in Scotland, demolishing oak-smoked salmon and chips with a view over Loch Harport.
Keeping out of the rain was a priority, so we headed up to Dunvegan, even though the castle was closed. Instead, we popped into the Giant Angus MacAskill Museum for a chat with local legend Peter MacAskill. As well as showcasing the history of the worldâs tallest man, 81-year-old Peter serenaded us with a Gaelic song and local stories.
Thankfully, the weather had turned for the better so we could explore the Trotternish Peninsula. The grave of Flora MacDonald was followed by a clamber around Duntulm Castle. Said to be one of the most haunted in Scotland, extreme care should be taken around these ruins!
Lastly, our adventure around Skye ended with the spectacular view at the Quiraing viewpoint. This monumental landslip has created some of the most incredible scenery in all of Scotland and it looks far better with atmospheric mist or cloud rather than bright blue skies.
Just another benefit to travelling in the quieter months of the year!
Written by Graeme Johncock
Jennifer Pearson of Ăr Skye
âIn another life, I would definitely have been an archaeologist,â says Jennifer Pearson, jewellery designer and founder of Portreeâs two OÌr creative stores. Jenâs âfascination with antique objects and artefactsâ provides, she says, an endless source of inspiration. Skye, âhomeâ, is the other, with its landscapes and flora and fauna inspiring her âsculptural and playful yet wearableâ designs.
Jen opened her first store in central Portree in 2016, the name taken from the Gaelic word for âgoldâ. It was followed by a second larger store in 2018, and both stock a wide range of art, crafts and homeware by different artists and makers. Huge windows illuminate knits and ceramics, seascapes and pendants. âOur ethos is to work closely with independent artists and designers to ensure authenticity and a sense of connection between artist and buyer,â says Jen.
She sells work she admires and feels âwould be suited to celebrating our surrounding landscapeâ. Recent collaborations have included artists Ludovica Perosin and Hannah Farthing. Jewellery and knitwear are always popular, âas is the wide variety of art and prints we stockâ, she says.
The idea for OÌr came when Jen realised lots of people were visiting Skye looking for authentic crafts and art. âI felt passionate about trying to create a platform for artists and makers like myself,â she says. âWe represent a modern, sustainable creative retail environment and, most importantly, we are passionate about connecting customers to the story and person behind the piece.â
Portree, which she describes as a great base for a visit to Skye, is the ideal location for OÌr. âIt is a destination in itself, with the iconic view of the colourful harbour buildings,â says Jen. Thereâs a variety of independent shops and cafes, too, as well as âsome great local walksâ. Thatâs how her ideal day on Skye starts â walking to Orbost Beach or Oronsay Island if itâs sunny. âThen maybe head over to Cafe Lephin for lunch, followed by an afternoon in the garden, weather/midges permitting.â
Jennifer shares her personal recommendations in our The Best of Skye Guide Book.
Profile by Emily Rose Mawson
5 Cafés in Skye
Skye lends itself well to stopoffs where the welcomeâs warm, the coffeeâs good and the cakes are home-baked. Whether youâre unwinding post-walk or sheltering from the drizzle, these are the places to know about.
Birch
This pared-back little coffee shop down an alley in Portree, all granite-grey woodwork on the outside, pale wood and a Scandi-chic vibe within, was set up by Niall Munro in 2021 after spending time in Australia where he was inspired by the cafĂ© culture in Melbourne, the home of the flat white. Now evolving into a sleek mini-chain thereâs a roastery on the edge of Portree, also serving coffee and cake, where customers can learn more about the coffee and get an insight into the roasting process, and a second cafĂ© in Inverness, launched in spring 2024.
The roastery, with its exposed brickwork, has a more industrial vibe and was a natural progression after the launch of the cafĂ©. Traceability is key and being able to source the beans from small-scale farms around the world, from Ethiopia to Costa Rica, sampling, roasting and profiling their own coffees is an important part of their ethos. You can buy their current roasts, with tasting notes, such as Zebugu Busi a washed Ugandan with notes of dark chocolate, blood orange and raspberry, along with the custom-made ceramic coffee cups designed by Cara Guthrie Ceramics or grab a stool for breakfast, brunch, lunch or mid-afternoon pickme-up pastry. In the winter they also put on âBirch Nightsâ â think small plates and house-made cocktails.
Birch
Lean To Coffee
A ruined crofterâs cottage with makeshift seating scattered through open-to-theelements or Perspex-roofed âroomsâ, the cafĂ© itself in a converted container. On the menu, honey-soaked chai latte and matcha latte, homemade granola, sticky cinnamon buns and sourdough toasties: the âNoseriderâ filled with Strathdon blue cheese, pear and candied walnut.
Lean To Coffee
Bog Myrtle
The founders of the Skye Bakehouse - Mania (the pastry chef) and John (the baker) - took over this leafy, pot plantlaced vintage-chic cafĂ© in 2023. Think old velvet sofas and stools positioned in front of picture windows for sea-gazing while you tuck into a pretty bowl of basmati rice with pesto, tzatziki, broccoli and pickled red onion â or nibble a sticky cardamom bun or salted caramel brioche doughnut. Victoria sponge, lemon and elderflower, lime and blueberry, chocolate or Millionaire (a nod to millionaireâs shortbread) cake, washed down with a pot of tea from Tiree.
Bog Myrtle
CafĂ© CĂčil
From Hackney to the Highlands; Clare Coghill opened the first CafĂ© CĂčil in East London in 2019 where it quickly became a favourite brunch spot before heading home to launch this sprawling, barn-style red-roofed eatery on her home turf. Equally famous for its brunch and showcasing the best of Hebridean produce, on the menu youâll find Cuil kimchi toasties along with Scottish smoked mackerel on sourdough toast with blood orange, pickled fennel and pea shoots. The âbeef brisket rarebitâ is a medley of slow-cooked Lochalsh beef with Orkney cheddar sauce, poached egg and onion jam, while the Middle Eastern dish shakshouka is given a Highland twist with the addition of vegetarian haggis. To drink; the house-made Cuil-Aid is a delicious homemade rhubarb and rose lemonade.
Cuil is the Gaelic word for nook, nest or corner and as well as the airy open-plan seating area there are clusters of cosy stove-hugging sofas. The queue at times stretches out the door, but if you canât bag a seat inside thereâs a takeaway counter for food-to-go - and in another corner, a shop where you can stock up on local artisan crafts, food and drink.
CafĂ© CĂčil
The Hungry Gull
On the specials board youâll find dishes such as Pork Belly Benedict; âpoachies on sourdough with a gochujang hollandaise and sesameâ, on the counter white choc chai sticky buns and biscoff-stuffed cookies. This popular pitstop also offers takeaway in the evening; classic fish and chips along with the Gull Burger topped with Orkney cheddar, smoked bacon, caramelised onion with a side of handcut chips.
The Old Man of Storr by Simon Hird
The Best of Isle of Skye: Curated by Hidden Scotland
Welcome to Hidden Scotlandâs guide to the extraordinary Isle of Skye. Many islands around Europe can claim to be blessed with grand scenery, but precious few can match the raw, elemental drama of Skye. Craggy slopes and muscular headlands stretch across the map like works in some gargantuan open-air gallery, while a glimmering array of lochs, burns and white-sand bays offset the towering geology.
The island is no pocket-sized retreat. Covering more than 1,650 square kilometres, it stands as a realm of its own, a land where eagles soar, skies brood and single-track roads snake off into the distance. As a cultural destination, meanwhile, itâs vibrantly alive, with a string of historical settlements and a population of some 12,000. Among these locals runs a rich vein of creativity and a long tradition of producing artists, musicians and makers â indeed, spend long enough among Skyeâs cloud-snagged mountains and wave-bashed peninsulas and itâs hard not to feel inspired yourself.
The following pages are your guide to making the most of the island (as well as its far smaller but similarly lovely sister island, Raasay). In your hands youâll find an overview of the best places to stay, the best things to do, the best locations to visit and the best spots to eat and drink.
As youâll no doubt be aware, visitor numbers here can be high in peak season. With this in mind, weâve also made an effort to spotlight a whole host of lesser-known attractions, championing the places and people that truly make Skye what it is. Itâs somewhere to explore at length, a destination where the choicest rewards are often found in the quietest, most unexpected places â and we hope this guide allows you to enjoy this very special island to the full.
Quiz Answers
Dunvegan Castle
Portree
The Cuillin Hills (or Cuillin Mountains)
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