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Issue 68
Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly
Sunday 10th Nov 2024
Today's weekly takes approx. 12 minutes to read.
Hi 👋
We’re delighted to be back with a new ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. We really hope that you enjoy reading.
Have a great Sunday!
What’s in this week’s email.
This Week’s Quiz
Product of the Week
Scotland’s Fishing Villages
The Lost Jacobite Gold
Did you know…
Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock
Dave Williams - Braemar Chocolate Shop
Free Wallpaper
The Best of Skye: Curated by Hidden Scotland
Quiz Answers
1.Which type of animal has a special graveyard in Edinburgh Castle?
2.Which major river flows through Inverness?
3.Which is Scotland’s only triangular castle?
Product of the week - Issue 09 Limited Gift Edition
We are back with our gift wrapping service for our autumn/winter edition of Hidden Scotland magazine. This year we are very proud to have collaborated with Scottish illustrator Joy Nevada to create this festive wrapping paper. The gift wrapped magazines will also come with an A5 print of the front cover image as well as a bookmark.This gift is dispatched in our custom-designed Hidden Scotland box, sent directly to the recipient or to yourself.
You can also choose to add a personal message with a handwritten note.
10% off this weekend only by using code WEEKEND
Scotland’s Fishing Villages
Scotland’s fishing villages provide insight into the nation’s maritime heritage, with each coastal community displaying its unique history and character. From stone cottages lining quiet harbours to bustling markets, these villages reflect Scotland’s longstanding connection to the sea, making them intriguing destinations for those exploring the country’s coastline.
Here are 5 you can visit.
Pittenweem
Pittenweem, a historic fishing village in Fife, is known for its colourful harbour, working fishing boats, and traditional cottages. It’s a vibrant hub for seafood and art, drawing visitors year-round.
Pittenweem
Cullen
Cullen, a coastal village in Moray, is famed for its golden sandy beach, striking viaduct, and as the birthplace of Cullen Skink, a hearty smoked haddock soup. It’s a scenic, culinary gem.
Cullen
Crovie
Crovie, perched on a narrow strip along Aberdeenshire’s coast, is a unique village with tightly packed cottages facing the sea. Known for its remote charm, it offers a glimpse into traditional coastal life.
Crovie
Crail
Crail, in the East Neuk of Fife, is celebrated for its historic harbour, traditional cottages, and winding cobbled streets. Known for fresh seafood and stunning coastal views, it’s a favourite spot for visitors.
Crail
Pennan
Pennan, a tiny coastal village in Aberdeenshire, is famous for its striking row of whitewashed cottages set against steep cliffs and its iconic red phone box featured in Local Hero. With dramatic seascapes, rugged surroundings, and a close-knit community feel, Pennan offers a quiet, scenic escape into traditional coastal Scotland.
Pennan
The Lost Jacobite Gold
A matter of weeks after the Jacobites lost the Battle of Culloden in 1746, two French ships called the Mars and Bellona arrived on the west coast. They were carrying long awaited funds and supplies from both France and Spain, ready to support Bonnie Prince Charlie’s campaign. As far as they were aware, the Jacobites were still an unbeaten force, achieving what many had believed impossible.
Once the French discovered that the cause had already been lost and Royal Navy ships were closing in, it was time to make a quick getaway. They decided that the Jacobites no longer needed French money, delivering it as ordered would have just been a waste. However, the Spanish gold was none of their concern and so seven caskets were unloaded before they fled back to sea.
One was almost immediately stolen, but there was still a small fortune left lying on a Scottish beach. Since the war was over, the intention was to use the funds to help those being punished by the government forces. However, nobody actually knows what happened to that money.
With British soldiers combing the Highlands, it’s assumed that the bulk of the gold was hidden somewhere safe. Rumours began to spread about its location and who had possession of it last. Accusations soon followed that the Jacobite chiefs who had handled the treasure were misappropriating the funds for themselves.
Fingers were pointed and people were killed over the relentless hunt for this Jacobite Gold. The last person said to hold it was Ewen MacPherson of Cluny and he may have buried it near Loch Arkaig. It wasn’t far from where the ships had unloaded their cargo, remote enough to avoid much suspicion and on land belonging to the staunch Jacobite Cameron of Lochiel.
After Prince Charles fled Scotland, he lost much of his international support and that included funds for his lavish lifestyle. He pestered Cluny for years to send him whatever gold was left but was told that it had all been used.
Charles and many other Jacobites refused to accept it. The story lives on and many still believe there’s a cache of lost Jacobite gold hidden somewhere around the banks of Loch Arkaig.
Words by Graeme Johncock
Did you know that King James I was assassinated in a toilet?
On the 20th February 1437, the unpopular reign of James I came to a brutal, messy end. During the day, the King had been playing tennis at Blackfriars monastery, although he was losing so many balls into the sewer that the drains had to be blocked up. That evening, James awoke to assassins trying to break into his bedroom in the monastery. Sending his wife Queen Joan to bar the door, he tore up the toilet and jumped into the tunnel below. Unfortunately, with the end blocked up due to his tennis match earlier, there was no escape and the King was caught and killed, knee-deep in his own waste!
Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock
Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.
With Autumn well and truly underway, if there’s one place worth visiting in Scotland more than any other then it’s Perthshire. There’s a very good reason it gets called Big Tree Country and those trees were showing big colours!
Rather than taking the fast, direct route to my final destination, I had the chance to meander my way through the region. First on the itinerary was a trip to the wee village of Dunning. The old church there dates back around 800 years, dedicated to St Serf who is said to have slain a dragon here in the 6th century.
Unfortunately, we were too early in the day to get inside the building and admire the Dupplin Cross, a rare, carved Pictish stone from around 800AD. There’s another cross worth visiting nearby though, standing atop the Maggie Wall Witch Memorial! Nobody knows who Maggie was, there’s no record of her in the documented witch trials, but this marker declares that she was burned here as a witch in 1657.
It was time to cross the Highland Boundary Line, heading deeper into Perthshire through the Sma’ Glen. It might be a small glen, but it’s got some big stories. Near the top of the glen, a huge boulder known as Ossian’s Stone is said to mark the burial of a great Gaelic hero. The heather on the hills has long faded by now from vibrant purple to a deep burnt orange, giving a taste of what was to come.
After lunch in Aberfeldy and an obligatory stop at the Highland Chocolatier in Grandtully, it was time for the real highlight of an autumn trip to Perthshire – a walk around The Hermitage. This incredible stretch of woodland was laid out by the Dukes of Atholl in the 18th century as a pleasure walk and it’s a favourite spot for both me and Molly the dog.
They planted many of the soaring Douglas Firs that spread above our heads and the larch clinging to the cliffsides. Some were allegedly planted by the 3rd Duke firing seed from a cannon! There are trees of almost all varieties around this riverside walk, giving us the full range of autumnal colours.
The centrepiece of The Hermitage is Ossian’s Hall, named after that same hero buried in the Sma’ Glen. Walking through the small folly takes you to a balcony and the perfect viewpoint over the Black Linn Falls. The river Braan crashes into a foaming pool below in an impressive display of the force of nature.
It’s a sight that Molly and I have seen many times before, but it’s one that never seems to get old!
Written by Graeme Johncock
Dave Williams - Braemar Chocolate Shop
In the heart of the Cairngorms National Park, this boutique handmade chocolate business pairs Scottish flavours with single origin cocoa from around the world. It’s about using the best ingredients and creating the right “snap” when you bite into the chocolate, says founder Dave Williams, as he also shares his top tips for a visit to Braemar.
“My favourite bar has to be the Islay,” says Braemar-based chocolatier Dave Williams. It’s infused with Bowmore whisky, mixed through with an oat cream ganache, and paired with a single origin 66% cocoa from Mexico. “It’s rather boozy and best eaten slowly of an evening, perhaps with a wee dram of Bowmore… Perfect, I think.”
Dave heads a team of five in Braemar Chocolate Shop in the Cairngorms National Park, where local foliage curated by Chloe MacIntyre at Braemar’s coo hill studio hangs around shelves of delectable-looking chocolate bars. There’s a huge map showing where the ingredients come from, too, and looking out, views of Creag Chòinnich and the hazy hills beyond Cairnadrochit.
There is also a viewing window into the kitchen. “Customers can watch as we use the very best Scottish ingredients to curate unique flavour pairings,” says Dave. “As with all things food, using the best ingredients is key. This, along with tempering correctly to get the right ‘snap’ and feel when you bite into your chocolate.”
Dave’s chocolate-making career started at his kitchen table in Shetland, following 26 years as a chef in the British Army. After training as chocolatier, he won a contract for Northlink Ferries, going on to create more than 3,000 chocolates a month for their North Sea Operations.
In Braemar, he uses a mix of “amazing single origin cocoa from places including Ecuaodor, Papua New Guinea, Mexico and Africa”, as well as the finest Belgian blends. Paired with these strong, deep flavours are Scottish ingredients including fruits, whiskies, sourdough breads and even Blue Murder cheese.
Dave’s fascination with flavours started when he found himself travelling the world when he joined the Army aged 16. After reading an article in National Geographic magazine about the food at The Fife Arms, and “being a foodie”, he came to visit Braemar. His visit was successful, culminating in relocating from Shetland in 2020 and opening a shop in the village. “We now supply chocolates to the hotels’ guests,” says Dave. A Braemar taste pairing for sure.
Dave’s Braemar
A walk up Creag Chòinnich (1,765 feet) needs to be done, along with a hike up Morrone (2,818 feet) if you want to test yourself for an hour two.
If you love a sweet treat – aside from chocolate of course! – the Hazelnut Patisserie is a must.
Also lunch and/or dinner in The Fife Arms or the local pub, Farquharsons Bar and Kitchen. Great food and great atmosphere in both for sure.
Follow it up with a lovely walk around the River Dee, starting at one end of the village and returning at the other side. It takes around an hour at a leisurely pace.
Finally, don’t miss Braemar Gallery. It showcases some fantastic works.
For more on Braemar Chocolate Shop, follow them on Instagram
Profile by Emily Rose Mawson
Wallpaper by Sam Rogers
Visiting Skye next year?
Welcome to Hidden Scotland’s guide to the extraordinary Isle of Skye. Many islands around Europe can claim to be blessed with grand scenery, but precious few can match the raw, elemental drama of Skye. Craggy slopes and muscular headlands stretch across the map like works in some gargantuan open-air gallery, while a glimmering array of lochs, burns and white-sand bays offset the towering geology.
The island is no pocket-sized retreat. Covering more than 1,650 square kilometres, it stands as a realm of its own, a land where eagles soar, skies brood and single-track roads snake off into the distance. As a cultural destination, meanwhile, it’s vibrantly alive, with a string of historical settlements and a population of some 12,000. Among these locals runs a rich vein of creativity and a long tradition of producing artists, musicians and makers – indeed, spend long enough among Skye’s cloud-snagged mountains and wave-bashed peninsulas and it’s hard not to feel inspired yourself.
The following pages are your guide to making the most of the island (as well as its far smaller but similarly lovely sister island, Raasay). In your hands you’ll find an overview of the best places to stay, the best things to do, the best locations to visit and the best spots to eat and drink.
As you’ll no doubt be aware, visitor numbers here can be high in peak season. With this in mind, we’ve also made an effort to spotlight a whole host of lesser-known attractions, championing the places and people that truly make Skye what it is. It’s somewhere to explore at length, a destination where the choicest rewards are often found in the quietest, most unexpected places – and we hope this guide allows you to enjoy this very special island to the full.
Quiz Answers
Dogs
River Ness
Caerlaverock
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