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We’re thrilled to bring you another edition of ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. As always, we hope you enjoy reading and find inspiration for your next adventure.

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The Redcap of Hermitage Castle

It’s no surprise that a castle known as the “guardhouse of the bloodiest valley in Britain” has picked up some stories over the last 800 years. Hermitage Castle was built so close to the border between Scotland and England that just its construction almost caused a full scale war. These enormous walls were built to keep people out, but legend says that they also kept a very sinister creature in.

The imposing mass of Hermitage Castle has changed greatly since the 13th century. The castle walls were less foreboding but the man living behind them was so wicked that his story still lingers. He was a member of the Soulis family, butlers to the King of Scots and Lords of Liddesdale.

Soulis had been schooled in the dark arts and enjoyed nothing more than death and destruction. He had gained himself a helper for his nefarious deeds, the only creature that enjoyed bloodshed as much as he did. This small beast was called a Redcap, similar to a goblin but with a hat that needed to be soaked in blood to maintain its deep red colour. There was no better place to provide the Redcap with a steady supply of spilled blood than the frontier of the Scottish Borders.

In return for the carnage that the redcap required, it granted Soulis a magical ability. This lord of Hermitage Castle could not be harmed by steel or bound by rope. Soulis grew bold thinking himself invincible. His crimes grew darker, and the redcap grew happier while people from the surrounding area despaired. Eventually, the locals hatched a plan to rid themselves of Soulis forever.

Together, they rose up and stormed Hermitage Castle to seize Soulis. Rope wouldn’t bind him so they wrapped him in lead and where steel couldn’t harm him, they boiled him in a cauldron. The redcap however wasn’t so easily dealt with. Even without the cruelty of Soulis, there was plenty of blood spilled during the cross border fighting around Hermitage Castle to satisfy this little creature.

A new keeper of the fortress, William Douglas captured his rival Alexander Ramsay and left him to rot in the dungeon here. Ramsay managed to survive for 17 days on scraps of grain and drops of water before finally wasting away. Later, Mary Queen of Scots would rush to Hermitage Castle from Jedburgh to visit the wounded Earl of Bothwell. He was near death after a local skirmish and Mary herself almost died on the journey back to her court.

Throughout it all, the redcap has supposedly watched from the high walls of Hermitage Castle. It has been a long time since blood was spilled here though. The castle was rendered obsolete with the Union of the Crowns in 1603 and abandoned. If you hear a strange scrabbling noise or catch glimpse of a flash of red inside, then be wary. If that redcap really is still around, then he must be getting pretty desperate.

Written by Graeme Johncock Greame has recently written a book called ‘Scotland's Stories by Graeme Johncock’ Grab a copy here.

Itinerary: Exploring Robert Burns Birthplace In Alloway

Every 25th January is Burns Night which makes this the perfect time of year to visit Alloway, the birthplace of Scotland’s National Poet. It might be a small village, but it’s got a lot to offer any fans of Robert Burns.

The Burns Birthplace Museum

The best place to start any trip to Alloway is at the Burns Birthplace Museum run by the National Trust for Scotland. It’s the largest collection of items relating to Robert Burns anywhere in the world with over 5000 pieces. They range from historically important artefacts like his writing desk or letters written in his hand to smaller, seemingly mundane things like the shaving razor Burns used to shape his iconic sideburns!

Inside, you can learn more about who Robert Burns really was and listen to recordings of his poetry. It’s the perfect background you need before exploring the rest of Alloway.

Walk The Poet’s Path

From the museum, head further into the village along the Poet’s Path. You’ll find statues commemorating different Robert Burn’s poems starting with the ever popular To A Mouse and Address To A Haggis. Along the 5-minute walk, weather vanes tell the epic horror story Tam o Shanter which was set by Burns in Alloway. I can never help but pat the statues of the Twa Dogs when passing by and if it wasn’t for the Fox on its plinth, I would maybe never have heard the poem “On Glenriddell’s Fox Breaking His Chain”.

Visit The Burns Cottage

At the end of the Poet’s Path, you’ll reach the Burns Cottage, built by Robert’s father William. This is where the poet was born and lived until he was 7 years old. In his day, this wee thatched building consisted of just two rooms – one for animals, another for the family. It’s a place that still feels alive with stories, with the ability to transport you back in time. As well as being the birthplace of Burns, it’s also where the very first Burns Supper was held on the 5 year anniversary of his death. Now moved to his birthday, it’s a tradition that’s last over 220 years!

Grab Lunch At The Poet’s Corner

Across the street from the cottage, the Poet’s Corner makes the perfect place to stop for lunch. As well as serving delicious Scottish food, it’s a hub for the local community with a great buzz around it.

Venture Inside Alloway’s Auld Haunted Kirk

Follow in the footsteps of the heroic Tam o’ Shanter from one of Burns’ best loved poems as you walk up to Alloway Auld Kirk. This is where Tam saw warlocks and witches in a dance while the Devil played the bagpipes! It’s a very atmospheric place, with fascinating carved gravestones from as far back as the 1600s and heavy, metal mortsafes to deter bodysnatchers. The first grave you’ll see on entry is for Robert’s father William, although the original was chipped away by souvenir hunters!

Cross The Brig O’ Doon

A short walk away the Brig o’ Doon stands as another memorial to the tale of Tam o’ Shanter. Built in the 15th century, this is where Tam’s horse Meg is racing to reach since the witches chasing her can’t cross running water. Even for those unfamiliar with the poem, it’s a beautiful single arch bridge paved with old cobbles. You won’t reach anywhere on the other side, but the view down the river is still spectacular!

Explore The Burns Memorial Garden

Retracing your steps across the bridge takes you to the Burns Memorial Garden, dominated by the enormous Grecian-style monument. Opened in 1823, less than 30 years after the poet’s death, it shows how important his legacy was already. You can climb up inside that for the view over the garden, however be aware that the steps are steep and narrow. Elsewhere, a recording of Tam o Shanter is played in a small building alongside statues of characters from the poem. Walking past the Red, Red Roses that remember the famous Burns’ song, you’ve come full circle back to the museum where you began this trip around Alloway!

View this itineary online.

Walk: Idrigill Point and Macleod's Maidens

Standing just off Idrigill Point at the southern end of Skye's north-western Duirinish peninsula, MacLeod’s Maidens are the island's most impressive sea stacks, with the highest of these jagged monoliths rising to almost 65m. The route described here leads from the road end at Orbost, south along the coast to the viewpoint on the adjacent clifftop. This is a fine coastal walk in it's own right and it follows a clear path most of the way to Idrigill Point. Imaginative woodland plantation and forestry management along the route greatly enhances this walk, as do the fine views along the way. It's worth continuing north-west along the clifftops beyond Idrigill Point as time and energy allow, to enjoy some of the finest coastal scenery on Skye.

By the parking area a green metal signpost reading 'Idrigill Point 5 miles',indicates the track leading down towards Loch Bharcasaig, where it bends right to continue westwards around the bay. The track sweeps round past a house in a clearing in the forestry and a chalet-type house above the shingle beach then crosses the Abhainn Bharcasaig. Go around a metal gate and follow the track up into the forestry. After a couple of kilometres the track runs out by the Forse Burn, cross with care and continue through a wooden gate in a deer fence. Fork right shortly after as indicated by a marker post. The path, which can be quite boggy in places climbs steadily and eventually crosses a pass between Beinn na Boineid and Beinn na Moine. 

The path descends and leads through another gate where a sign indicates that you are now entering Rebel's Wood, a woodland plantation including birch, spruce and other native species, which was established by Future Forests in memory of Joe Strummer, frontman of punk rock band The Clash. Continue onwards with views over the ruined settlement of Brandarsaig to the islands in Loch Bracadale with the Cuillin   dominating the horizon on a clear day. Follow the path down across the Brandarsaig Burn, flowing through a gully lined with rowan and aspen.

The path climbs over the neck of a small promontory named The Hoe before descending the often wet slope on the other side. The path turns sharply right, climbing again to avoid a deep gorge. Cross a stream and then the Idrigill Burn shortly after, leaving the fenced woodland through another deer gate. Just beyond the burn are the stone ruins of Idrigill, once a substantial township with the corrugations of old lazy beds all around. Follow the path uphill and through the Glac Ghealaridh, a narrow valley leading up between low hills – Steineval to the right and Àrd Beag to the left. Go through another gate and continue briefly along the right hand side of a fence before before heading south south-west along trodden paths to reach the coast at the sheer-sided inlet of Geodha nan Daoine. Continue out onto the narrow headland flanking the eastern (left-hand) side of the inlet

From this vantage point there are tremendous views of Macleod's Maidens. The largest stack is the Mother while the two smaller stacks are the Daughters. The Mother stack was first climbed in 1959 – a daunting prospect indeed. The Maidens were also notorious ship-wreckers; smugglers reputedly placed decoy lights on the skerries at the Maidens' feet to lure unsuspecting vessels onto the rocks.

Return to the head of Geodha nan Daoine then bear left to continue to the tip of the next headland, Rubha na Maighdeanan, for further thrilling views of the stacks. 

Either retrace your outward route to return to Orbost or regain the main path and continue north-west along the magnificent coastline to enjoy the spectacular views as time and energy allows.

Written by Peter Edwards

For more walk ideas, pick up our Isle of Skye guidebook. Now also available digitally.

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