Issue 78

Hello and welcome to the Hidden Scotland Weekly

 

Sunday 2nd February 2025

Calton Hill

Today's weekly takes approx. 14 minutes to read.

Hi 👋

We’re excited to bring you another edition of ‘Hidden Scotland Weekly’. As always, we hope you enjoy reading and find inspiration for your next adventure.

Issue 10 of the Hidden Scotland Magazine is just around the corner. With a subscription, you’ll receive every issue delivered directly to your door, beautifully packaged and accompanied by a complimentary bookmark and cover print. To find out more, click here.

Enjoy this week’s edition, and have a fantastic Sunday!

What’s in this week’s email.

  1. This Week’s Quiz

  2. Skíƍ Pottery x Hidden Scotland Limited Edition Tumbler

  3. The Creature Living In The Birks Of Aberfeldy

  4. Did you know


  5. Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

  6. Issue 10 coming soon! Subscribe today.

  7. 5 Picnic Spots in Edinburgh

  8. The Hidden Scotland Shop

  9. Quiz Answers

1.On which island would you find the Machrie Moor Standing Stones?

2.Which clan chief traditionally owned the St Kilda archipelago?

3.Which Scottish poet wrote Scots Wha Hae?

Skíƍ Pottery x Hidden Scotland Limited Edition Tumbler - Now Available.

Skíƍ Pottery x Hidden Scotland Limited Edition Tumbler

An exclusive collaboration handcrafted by local artisans Kayti and Luke. Inspired by minimalist design and the natural tones of the Hebrides, this stoneware tumbler is perfect for enjoying your morning brew or as a stylish home accessory.

The Creature Living In The Birks Of Aberfeldy

Made famous by Robert Burns, the Birks of Aberfeldy is a place of inspiration, full of soaring trees and tumbling waterfalls. This small gorge on the outskirts of town was originally known as the Den of Moness after the river that flows down its rocky sides. Only after Burns sat on a rock and wrote about the beauty of the birch trees known as “birks” did the new name stick.

However, Aberfeldy itself is said to have gained its name a long time ago, after a strange little creature. Local tradition claims that Aberfeldy comes from the Gaelic – Obair Pheallaidh or “The Work of Peallaidh. This Peallaidh was a shaggy beast from Scottish folklore called a Urisk and he had created this beautiful collection of waterfalls to be his home.

Urisks can live for a very long time, so Peallaidh was still lurking amongst the Birks of Aberfeldy after humans had moved into the area. He wasn’t an aggressive or threatening beast, but he did have a habit of leaving his watery lair to play tricks on the locals. While not intentionally hurting anyone, there was every chance he would make life difficult, so you didn’t want him prowling around your home.

A housewife was making bannocks one day when she spied that shaggy little Urisk sneak through the door and snatch up her entire first batch of baking from where it was cooling on the table. Without a care in the world, he sat munching away in the corner, dropping crumbs all over her clean floor.

The baker wasn’t happy, but it’s rarely a good idea to risk offending a supernatural creature so she continued to bake. Every time the Urisk finished eating one batch, he would grab the next cooled plate of bannocks and begin to devour them. Peallaidh’s unhappy host was praying that he would eventually get full and leave of his own accord, but he showed no sign of slowing down and she was almost completely out of flour!

Worried that her family would starve if this didn’t stop, the housewife saw only one option. She took a little longer with the next batch, waiting until the Urisk was finished the last. Then she spun around with a fresh bannock, still roasting hot from the fire and dropped it straight into his outstretched hand.

The scolded Urisk screamed in pain and sprinted through the door to plunge himself in the icy cool waters by the Birks of Aberfeldy. While the baker was pleased she’d gotten rid of her pest, she felt awful about hurting him. Up in his waterfall lair, Peallaidh was feeling equally guilty about almost starving the woman and her family with his actions.

The next day, the Urisk found a peace offering in the form of a glass of milk and a freshly baked bannock waiting on a rock near his home. Soon, the woman’s husband found that a large, dry patch of his field, that had always been barren, had suddenly become moist and fertile.

Both Urisk and baker had made amends.

Did you know Ben Nevis has grown in the last 75 years?

It might sound surprising, but Ben Nevis, the highest mountain in Scotland, is officially one whole metre taller than it was 75 years ago! In 1949, seven climbers spent almost three weeks to work out the height of the Ben, coming to the decision of 1344 metres. Then in 2016, using more modern technology, the Ordnance Survey took only 2 hours to conclude that the mountain was very slightly higher. In reality, the difference was only a handful of centimetres, but it means that the height on all OS maps is rounded up to 1345 metres instead of down!

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

I think we can all agree that January is one of the toughest months of the year! Thankfully, in Scotland we have a few distractions going on to help us power on through the cold, bleak days after the festive period has died down. I wasn’t about to miss any of them!

While the first part of my month was spent with family, come the 11th of January, I was ready to celebrate New Year again. That’s because I was up in Burghead on the Moray Coast to enjoy their unique celebration known as the Burning of the Clavie. When Scotland moved to the Gregorian in the 1750s, we lost 11 days to get the seasons back on track.

However, the people of Burghead refused to comply.

They carried on celebrating on the same day they always had, in the same way that they always had. Like lots of other Scottish festivals, that involves a lot of fire. Around 6pm, the crowd gathered as the Clavie (a special half a barrel nailed onto a post) was filled with fuel and staves then lit and the roar of fire drowned out by “Hip, Hip, Hoorays!”

For around an hour, the Clavie Crew carried the flaming barrel around the streets of Burghead, cleansing them of the spirits of last year. Without really knowing the layout of the village, I was blindly ducking down side streets to catch the head of the procession again!

Eventually, the Clavie was fitted into a pedestal on Doorie Hill and I found a good spot to watch dozens of buckets full of fuel being thrown at the barrel, lighting up the night, until it all collapses in a burst of flames. Sadly, I didn’t get hold of any of the charred bits of wood that bring luck for the year ahead!

There was another very important Scottish celebration that I was taking part in during January, one that more of you might recognise. Burns Night takes place on the 25th, a celebration of Scotland’s National Poet Robert Burns.

As a full-time storyteller, it’s an important time for me and I was hosting two Burns Suppers on the Royal Yacht Britannia. That involved Addressing The Haggis and giving a speech known as the Immortal Memory, all about why Robert Burns is so important to Scottish culture.

I was also performing Burns’ epic poem Tam o Shanter, so a few days before, I had travelled to the poet’s birthplace Alloway where the poem is set. As well as having a look inside the museum and cottage where Burns was born, I was able to follow in the footsteps of Tam.

The farmer gets caught up with warlocks and witches dancing in the ruins of Alloway Kirk and after one drink too many, he cat-calls one of the “hellish legion!” His horse Meg is forced to gallop towards the Brig o Doon where they would be safe since witches can’t cross running water. While she makes it, she has to leave her grey tail behind in the clutches of an angry witch!

The very bridge that Robert Burns was writing about is still there and it’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful in Scotland. There’s no better place to get inspiration before reciting the bard’s work or just shaking off the January blues!

Royal Yacht Britannia

Written by Graeme Johncock Greame has recently written a book called ‘Scotland's Stories by Graeme Johncock’ Grab a copy here.

Issue 10 coming soon! Subscribe today.

With a subscription, you’ll receive every issue delivered directly to your door, beautifully packaged and accompanied by a complimentary bookmark and cover print. To find out more click here.

5 Picnic Spots in Edinburgh

Calton Hill

There aren’t many opportunities to enjoy al fresco dining in Scotland throughout the year but when the warmer weather arrives and the sun doesn't set until 10pm, it makes dining outdoors all the more special. There are plenty of green spaces dotted around Edinburgh to choose from so here are just a few of our favourite places to enjoy a picnic.

A few things before we begin, if you decide to head out for a picnic, please remember to dispose of any rubbish after the meal or take leftovers home with you. Furthermore, most of these parks are dog-friendly so be sure to keep an eye on your food or you may lose it to a furry friend.

Princes Street Gardens

Beginning with Edinburgh’s most central green space, Princes Street Gardens stretches out over 37 acres and sits between Edinburgh’s medieval Old Town and elegant Georgian New Town. The gardens play a key role in the city throughout the year and during the summer months, they provide ample space for those who want to soak up a bit of sunshine or enjoy a picnic with friends and family. Princes Street Gardens is divided into two parts by The Mound, an artificial hill that connects Edinburgh’s Old Town and New Town, each with its own distinct character. East Princes Street Gardens is the smaller of the two but often more popular due to its proximity to Edinburgh Waverley train station and it’s characterised by the Scott Monument, the Royal Scottish Academy and the Scottish National Gallery. West Princes Street Gardens sits directly below Edinburgh Castle and is home to a wide variety of monuments, as well as, the Ross Fountain, Ross Band Stand, and the charming Gardener’s Cottage.

Both gardens have a scattering of benches, plenty of grassy open space to spread out a picnic blanket and enjoy a packed lunch plus incredible views of Edinburgh Castle that makes this a unique picnic spot. 

Local suggestion for picnic food: Victor Hugo Deli’s (104 George Street) was founded in 1955 by Hugh and Zdzislaw (known as Victor) and the deli is well-known for its range of continental foods, breads, coffees and wines.

Holyrood Park

Holyrood Park is a royal park that sits adjacent to Holyrood Palace and consists of an impressive collection of landmarks that make up Edinburgh’s unforgettable skyline including the Salisbury Crags, the extinct volcano Arthur’s Seat, St Margaret's Loch, and St Anthony's Chapel Ruins. Being the largest green space in Edinburgh, stretching across 650 acres, there are a vast number of options when it comes to unrolling your picnic blanket and enjoying your meal. If it’s a still, sunny day, more adventurous picnickers can hike up Arthur’s Seat and enjoy a picnic near the summit to make the most of the views across Edinburgh and beyond. On the other hand, there’s a large open space behind Holyrood Palace and Holyrood Abbey which provides ample space for a peaceful picnic while soaking up the view of Salisbury Crags.

Local suggestion for picnic food: If you're walking from the direction of Princes Street, there’s a delightful small business called The Banh Mi Bar (3 East Market Street) that specialises in Vietnamese sandwiches, summer rolls, salads and more.

Dunbar’s Close Garden

If you prefer a more cosy, intimate picnic spot, head along to Dunbar’s Close Garden - a 17th-century-style garden located along the Canongate. The Canongate was once filled with fine houses and spacious gardens so it’s lovely that a few of these green spaces remain and provide peaceful pockets along a generally busy street. As you enter Dunbar’s Close, you’ll pass under a canopy of lush trees and emerge into an elegant garden divided into eight distinct sections. There are picturesque knot gardens which would have been common to find in the Canongate during the 17th-century, patches of wildflowers, a rose garden as well as a lawn sheltered by large trees at the foot of the garden which is perfect for a tranquil picnic. There are also various benches dotted around the garden for those who prefer a seat. 

Local suggestion for picnic food: The Edinburgh Larder (11 & 15 Blackfriars Street) is known for its delicious, seasonal, local food. Lunch options include their Taste of Scotland plate, wraps, sandwiches, and soups.

The Meadows

The Meadows is a lush, open stretch of grass with tree-lined paths crisscrossing through it. The green space boasts views of Arthur’s Seat and is surrounded by the grand buildings of the former Royal Infirmary of Edinburgh, the Victorian tenements of Marchmont and the University of Edinburgh. Coming in at 58 acres, the Meadows is well-loved by the surrounding neighbourhoods and comes into its own as a community hub on sunny summer days. It’s not surprising to walk through the Meadows on a summer’s day and spot a sea of people claiming every inch of grass soaking up the rare Scottish rays. The smell of barbeque wafts through the air, music is played in the distance and there are often various cheers accompanying a game of football. This isn't the ideal spot if you’re looking for peace and quiet but there is something undoubtedly special in the atmosphere of the Meadows on a sunny day that is very enjoyable. 

Local suggestion for picnic food: There’s the option to visit Victor Hugo Deli’s Marchmont branch (29 Melville Terrace) which is well-known for its range of continental foods or enjoy a takeaway sourdough pizza from Söderberg Pavilion (1 Lister Square).

Calton Hill

Despite being the smallest of Edinburgh’s seven hills, Calton Hill is renowned for its magnificent panoramic views over the city and the surrounding areas. As long as it’s not too windy, Calton Hill is an ideal picnic spot as you won’t have to carry your packed lunch up the likes of Arthur’s Seat to enjoy spectacular views. Once you’ve finished your picnic, there’s plenty to see beyond the views such as Calton Hill’s collection of historic monuments and the former city observatory which has been beautifully converted into a contemporary gallery space called the Collective. 

Local suggestion for picnic food: Valvona & Crolla (19 Elm Row) is an independent family business and a cornucopia of Italian deli produce, pastries, bread and wines.

Written by Shawna Law

The Hidden Scotland Shop

Quiz Answers

  1. Arran

  2. Macleod

  3. Robert Burns

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