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Issue 02
The Hidden Scotland Weekly
Sunday 21th May 2023
Today's weekly takes approx. 12 minutes to read.
Hi đ
Weâre delighted to be back with a new and improved âHidden Scotland Weeklyâ. We really hope that you enjoy reading.
As always we welcome you to provide feedback, you can find this at the bottom of the email.
Have a great Sunday!
Whatâs in this weeks email.
Scotlandâs Weekly Wonders
The Church Built By a Kelpie
This weeks quiz
Cliffs and Castles in East Lothian
Accommodation Recommendation
Aran Bakery
Escape with: Tommy Fitchet
Bouncing Back in Time: Falkland Palace's Royal Tennis Court
Whatâs happening in Scotland
Dun Beag Broch
Isle of Skye
Perched atop a rocky hill in Skye, Dun Beag brochâa striking relic of Scotland's Iron Ageâunfurls its tale of an ancient past. This impressively preserved broch tower, with its high, undulating dry-stone walls, evokes an aura of grandeur and defense. Tucked within are relics of past livesâ a narrow passage leading to a possible guardroom, a stone stair bearing silent testimony to vanished upper floors, and an enigmatic guard cell. Traces of a lengthy occupation extend even into the Middle Ages, offering intriguing clues of continuous interaction with the site. Dun Beag brochâ a uniquely Scottish architectural marvelâ stands as a fascinating testament to the social hierarchy of a bygone era.
Clootie Well
Black Isle
Tucked away in the serene woodland of Munlochy, the enigmatic Clootie Well exudes an air of ancient mysticism. This unique site, a vestige of Celtic healing traditions found across Cornwall, Ireland, and Scotland, beckons visitors seeking solace from ailments. Adornments of biodegradable clootsâsmall pieces of fabricâflutter from nearby trees, each imbued with a wish for wellness as they decay. While the practice is steeped in pagan origins, it seamlessly adapted into the Christian era. Today, despite historical fluctuations in acceptance, this age-old tradition of holistic healing continues to captivate visitors, making the Clootie Well a uniquely intriguing Scottish landmark.
Historic Kilbride
Oban
Situated in tranquil Lerags, Historic Kilbride marks a place of Christian worship dating back to the 6th century. This significant site houses the Church of Saint Bride the Virgin and the graves of Clan MacDougall's Chiefs, interwoven with major Scottish historical events. The non-profit organisation, Friends of Kilbride, maintains and promotes this treasured heritage site, inviting visitors to immerse themselves in a uniquely preserved slice of Scotland's spiritual and cultural past.
The Church Built By A Kelpie
St Vigeans is a small settlement on the edge of Arbroath, believed to have once been an important Pictish centre. The church sits dramatically on top of a small mound, surrounded by graves packed onto the sloping hillside. Even more dramatic, is the story of the churchâs construction.
Local folklore claims that the hill is entirely artificial, built on top of thick iron bars that prevent it falling into a loch deep below. The builder of St Vigeans church had captured the bridle of a terrifying Kelpie who lived in that loch. This powerful, shape shifting water-horse would be under his control for as long as he held that bridle.
With the strength of 10 regular horses, the Kelpie was forced to drag heavy blocks of stone into position. Then he built the mound and the church, all against his will. Kelpies are proud creatures though and once finally released, he put a curse on the church. One day a minister would kill himself and on the very next communion, the church would tumble into the loch below.
The story was passed down through the ages, with local people taking pride in their unique legend. Then one day in the late 17th century, tragedy struck and a minister did tragically kill himself. The congregation of St Vigeans then refused to take communion there for the next 37 years.
Eventually in 1736, somebody was brave enough to take the risk. Just before communion, the entire congregation ran outside to watch from a safe distance, terrified that the church would collapse into a hidden loch.
Fortunately for St Vigeans, nothing out of the ordinary happened and the church still stands well above the ground.
Words by Graeme Johncock, Illustration by Joe Mclaren
1.How high does a Munro have to be?
2.Where was Scotlandâs National Poet Robert Burns born?
3.Which castle sits on the shore of Loch Ness?
Cliffs and Castles in East Lothian
Ding doon Tantalloun, Ding doon Tantalloun,
mak a brig to the Bass!
So chanted the soldiers of King James V in 1527 as they battered the walls of Tantallon Castle with every gun and war machine they could muster. Though they pocked the walls with cannon shot and damaged sections of the castleâs vast curtain wall, they ultimately failed. It seemed the rhyme rang true â building a bridge to Bass Rock would be easier than getting in the castle uninvited.
The promontory fortress of Tantallon is a well-known East Lothian landmark, towering upon the cliffs looking upon to the broad mouth of the Firth of Forth. It was one of the mightiest castles in Scotland, a single wall standing 50ft high (though it feels at least twice that from the ramparts) guarding a bustling courtyard filled with the soldiers and servants of the Red Douglases.
The open courtyard, and indeed the top of the castleâs wall, are ideal lookout points for Bass Rock, a vast volcanic plug used as a medieval prison and in modern times by the worldâs largest colony Northern gannets some 150,000-strong. Sailings around it and landings on it can be arranged at the Scottish Seabird Centre in North Berwick. Approaching it by boat is an exhilaratingly primal experience that is the closest I have ever felt to being in Jurassic Park.
Not many know of the second castle tucked away just around the corner from Tantallon, Auldhame Castle. An overgrown ruin with tumbledown fragments and a freestanding arch dotted like a trail through the trees and nettles, Auldhame dates from the 16th century. Prolific Scottish historical fiction author and castle expert Nigel Tranter aspired to restore Auldhame and make it his family home, but alas, it did not come to pass. You can learn more about Tranter at the Flag Heritage Centre not too far away in Athelstaneford
Continuing down the track from Auldhame brings you to Seacliff Harbour. A broad sandy beach is a mecca for surfers, but itâs the genuinely epic view across the bay to Tantallon Castle and the sheer, beguiling oddity of the smallest harbour in Britain that make this place worth visiting over and over again.
Cut straight down into the red rocks is a miniscule harbour carved out by Andrew Laidlay in 1890 with just a steam engine and compressed air. It has room for one small boat, and the rare occasion when you catch the boat entering or leaving it makes for incredibly tense viewing as the crew use poles to avoid bumping the sides of the narrow channel. Sit on its edge with your feet dangling over, listen to the waves lap the shore, and cast your eye across the bay to the storybook ruins of Tantallon Castle beyond. This is hidden Scotland at its best.
Tantallon Castle, managed by Historic Environment Scotland, is 3.5 miles east of North Berwick. There is a regular bus service that stops out front of it as well as nearer Seacliff Harbour, and itâs a 15 to 20-minute walk along the road between the two. Conditions are easy-going, though climbing Tantallonâs walls involves many narrow steps. Be careful with the tides at Seacliff as some parts exposed at low tide get cut off as the tide rushes back in.
Scottish Proverb of the Week
âNever cast a clout till May be ootâ â Donât put away your cold weather clothes just yet, you can never trust the Scottish weather.
The Treehouses at Lanrick
Perthshire
Discover true escapism nestled amidst the serene Perthshire woodlands. The Treehouses at Lanrick, located on the River Teith banks, offer eco-luxury in five distinctive treehouses. Be whisked away to a world enveloped in nature's embrace, a stone's throw from Trossachs National Park, yet within reach of Glasgow and Edinburgh.
Barley Bothy
Aberdeenshire
Welcome to Barley Bothy, a unique, upcycled Scottish cabin offering a quirky blend of rustic charm and luxury. This countryside retreat invites you to soak in a hot tub under starry skies, craft pizzas in a wood pellet oven, and snuggle in king-sized box beds with stargazing windows. Experience idyllic bothy life, with unforgettable memories awaiting.
Loch Venachar Lodges
Loch Lomond & The Trossachs
Nestled on the shores of Loch Venachar in the heart of the Trossachs, Loch Venachar Lodges offer unrivalled, award-winning luxury. Perfect for families, couples, or dog-lovers, these self-catering retreats provide a serene base to explore Scotland's nature, engage in myriad sports, or simply unwind with hot tub views over the magnificent loch.
ARAN Bakery
Dunkeld
ARAN is an artisan bakery nestled in the heart of Dunkeld, Highland Perthshire. Reviving a 200-year-old previously derelict building, ARAN has transformed this historical site into a vibrant hub. Once a lemonade factory, a dentist's office, and a newsagent, it now serves as a bakery, infusing the high street with inviting aromas. Opening in October 2017, ARAN has consistently met high demand, even expanding into a new production kitchen in 2018 to double its output. Visitors can still observe the baking process in the open kitchen, and enjoy a range of delectable offerings, from breakfast and lunch menus to celebration cakes and patisseries.
Some more worth a mention
Escape with: Tommy Fitchet
Explore some of Scotlandâs most beautiful locations and hidden gems in our Escape With series where we ask people about their connection to a favourite place.
Edinburgh-based landscape artist and Saorsa Art Gallery owner Tommy Fitchet is constantly inspired by the landscapes and seascapes of Scotland in his work, and he is particularly drawn to the west coast and the islands of Arran, Lewis and Skye. As he says: âThe weather can change so quickly around the islands and even when itâs kicking up a storm, it can be incredibly and powerfully beautiful.â
Tommyâs abstract paintings capture the dynamic energy of these ever-shifting skies and landscapes. When asked about his favourite place, as he says: âThere are many choices!â But, as for most of us, thereâs one place that Tommy is always drawn back to; a place that inspires his creativity and one thatâs filled with memories of past trips to this dramatic stretch of coastline.
Tell us about your favourite place - where is it?
The one that stays with me and has the warmest memories is on the island of Arran: a stretch of beach and hills between Machrie beach and the series of caves including Kingâs Cave on the west coast of Arran.
The unspoilt beaches and the smooth, light sandstone rocks here are so beautiful, and this adds to the beautiful light that can make this place so surreal with the sound of the waves and the crystal clear water. Itâs what makes this stretch of coast one of my favourites.
Why does this place mean so much to you? And why are you always drawn back there?
I am inspired but the light around the islands and Arran just blew me away with its constantly changing light and stunning sunsets. I love to sit on Machrie beach and sketch and paint, trying to catch the light kissing the sea and the landscape. The whole island is wonderfully beautiful but I am drawn to Machrie as the light is so pure, and there arenât many buildings on this part of the island so you really feel like you have escaped to somewhere magical.
Do you have a first memory of visiting this place? Or a favourite more recent memory perhaps?
Machrie is one of the first places where I parked my car, took my coffee flask and sandwiches, and just sat on the beach watching the sunset over the island over a couple of hours.
It took me back to my childhood days and the wonderful memories of summer, freedom, embracing nature, and how wonderful and beautiful Scotland is.
Has Machrie changed over the time that youâve visited?
It has never changed. I am pleased about that and I hope that it stays this way for generations to come. Itâs one of the things that I love about places like this in Scotland; these wonders have probably been this way for hundreds, thousands of years, and they will hopefully be like this for thousands of years from now.
How does this place inspire your work?
I remember the light, the sun on my face, the cooling, salty breeze from the sea, and this felt like home to me; something familiar to me. This is what I try to convey in my paintings. I paint from my memories and they appear to me like Polaroids so I can remember the feeling, the light, the ambience of that particular moment, and this part of the island just feels so familiar and a part of me that will never leave. I hope that viewers of my paintings get to experience some of this when they experience my art.
If someone was thinking of visiting Machrie, whatâs the one thing they should know?
Take your time, slow down, take a blanket and some food and drink. Let time slow down and take it all in.
Whatâs the place youâd most like to explore in Scotland, that you havenât yet?
I have been looking at the Shetland Islands for some time now and in particular Unst. The remoteness of these islands, and the beauty and powerful weather climate and the stunning light, really interests me as an artist.
Tommy Fitchet will be exhibiting work at the Graystone Gallery in Edinburghâs Leith from Friday 5th May to Saturday 27th May.
Interviewed by Fiona Reid / Photography by Simon Hird
Itâs little surprise that a country as famous for rainy weather as Scotland would have invented the waterproof jacket. If people wanted to be protected from the elements before this, they were forced to wear something like cotton that had been oiled. While that worked, it was heavy and smelly in equal measures. Glasgow-born Charles Macintosh accidentally discovered that after sticking two pieces of fabric together using rubber as glue, they became resistant to rain once dried. While his first prototypes werenât without setbacks, the famous Macintosh waterproof coats had been born!
Bouncing Back in Time: Falkland Palace's Royal Tennis Court
Falkland Palace in Scotland houses the oldest real tennis court in Britain, originally commissioned by King James V in 1538. This unique, open-air court, once favored by Scottish royalty, reflects influences from the French Court, where the sport, originally known as 'paume,' was prevalent. Despite falling out of fashion in Scotland in the mid-1600s and descending into disrepair, the court was revitalized in the 1890s and is now preserved by the National Trust for Scotland. Today, the Falkland Palace Royal Tennis Club keeps the ancient sport alive, hosting games that utilize the court's historical features and remind players of the sport's storied past.
Potfest Scotland: 9, 10 & 11 June 2023 - Potfest Scotland, celebrating its 26th year, invites you to Scone Palace, Perth to meet 90 ceramic artists in large marquees, explore the stunning grounds, interact with the creators, and purchase unique pottery, fostering a vibrant blend of community, artistry, and history.
Sandbanks Brasserie, Broughty Ferry - MasterChef champion Jamie Scott and his wife Kelly launch Sandbanks Brasserie in Broughty Ferry, offering a casual dining experience filled with flavourful dishes made from local produce and the fresh baked goods supplied by their own bakeries, thereby adding a unique, relaxed venue to their successful culinary portfolio.
Campletown Malts Festival: 23-24 May 2023 - Glen Scotia Distillery joyfully hosts the return of the Campbeltown Malts Festival in 2023, offering an abundance of whisky chats, tastings, live music, and local cuisine, all set within a lively courtyard atmosphere, promising conviviality and the finest malts, come rain or shine.
The Tall Ships Races Lerwick 26-29 Jul 2023 11am: Europeâs largest free family festival, will see an impressive fleet of traditional sailing ships crewed by young trainees, traverse from Holland to the UK and Norway before arriving in Shetland on 26th July for a vibrant harbourside event, culminating in a parade of sail on 29th July.
Got an event or newsworthy story? email [email protected]
Whatâs new on the website
Unraveling the Mysteries of the Touchstone Maze in Strathpeffer. (link)
Seilich Skincare's Wild Journey from Scottish Meadows to Radiant Skin. (link)
10 Interesting Things to do in Stirlingshire (link)
Chocolates of Glenshiel (link)
Comrie Croft Farm Shop (link)
Your Kind Lifestyle (link)
Small Planet Trading (link)
Quiz Answers
Over 3000 feet
Alloway
Urquhart Castle
What would you like to see more of? |