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This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly begins in August 1460 at the siege of Roxburgh. King James II was killed when a cannon exploded, and within days his nine-year-old son was crowned at nearby Kelso Abbey. There was no grand procession or public celebration, just a hurried gathering of nobles in a cold stone church marking the start of a long and often troubled reign.

We’re also taking a quieter route this week, following the less-travelled road around Loch Awe. It’s Scotland’s longest freshwater loch, edged by forest tracks, hillside views, and places that don’t make it into the guidebooks. The main road only tells part of the story.

Graeme Johncock is back with a tale from Loch Linnhe, where a farmer in a storm found himself rowing alongside a mysterious passenger with strength far beyond her years. It’s one of those stories where myth and memory merge on the water.

There’s also a Fringe-season food guide for Edinburgh, a set of quick and good stops for when the next show is only minutes away. From French toast in the New Town to Nepalese street food by the water, these are the places worth knowing when time is short.

And, as always, we’ve got this week’s quiz, an accommodation pick, and more new features waiting on the site for members.

Thanks for reading and for being part of the Hidden Scotland community.

A farmer called Shalvach McKelvie had been delivering goods across the other side of Loch Linnhe, when he saw a storm whipping up. Rushing back to the water's edge, he saw the usually calm loch getting choppier by the minute. His boat was the only one left, everybody else was almost halfway across and already struggling with the waves.

He started to push his way out when a little old lady approached, asking if there was space to join him across the loch. McKelvie was a kind man, happy to oblige but he warned her it would be a rough and dangerous voyage.

"If you're happy to cross then so am I" she replied.

The big farmer began to row them out into the stormy water as fast as he could. Things were getting rougher and even somebody as strong as McKelvie was struggling to handle both oars.

His passenger asked him to hand her an oar and together they would fight the storm. McKelvie took one look at the wee, old lady and chuckled. He needed all of his strength just to hold on so she would probably be dragged overboard!

Their situation was only getting worse though. Soon it was clear, if he carried on like this then they'd inevitably sink beneath the water. With nothing to lose, he passed an oar to his companion.

It turns out this old lady wasn’t what she seemed. As she heaved on her oar, the boat began to turn to the side and McKelvie had to put all his strength into matching her strokes and keeping them steady.

Now they were in sync and with every pull on the two oars, the pair began to pick up speed. They were moving so fast that they practically skimmed across the surface of Loch Linnhe. They overtook all of the other little rowing boats and landed on the other side with such force that they skidded up the banks.

McKelvie turned in awe to this powerful, old lady he had underestimated. Without her help, he would have surely drowned, and he happily invited her in for dinner to show his gratitude. With a smile, she politely declined and told him she had better be on her way.

The farmer started to walk home but turned in wonder at the last moment, just catching a glimpse of his new friend diving below the surface of Loch Linnhe. McKelvie realised, he had been in the company of an incredibly powerful Glaistig.

Words by Graeme Johncock

Edinburgh Grazing: the best foodie pitstops during the Fringe

Navigating the Edinburgh Fringe (which runs for three weeks from 1-25 August) can feel like a Herculean task; the sheer number of shows (nudging 4,000), the vast number of venues (literally hundreds) scattered across a city which, although compact and walkable, is also hilly and cobbled. This is the world’s biggest festival of the performing arts, a feast of comedy, music, theatre, dance and cabaret. The mad dash between shows can be frantic - trying to figure out where to stoke up on the way? 

An early morning caffeine fix is, thankfully, no problem. Edinburgh has a vibrant coffee culture with more than its share of artisan roasters and third wave coffee outlets. Even Grow Urban a bijou plant shop on St Stephen Street in Stockbridge serves a good flat white and cake. What you won’t have time for is to join the snaking queue outside Lannan Bakery nearby. Another time. 

Instead head to one of the branches of artisan bakery Twelve Triangles scattered around the city. Or for one of the best breakfasts in Edinburgh book a table at Urban Angel in the New Town. The French Toast is legendary, thick slabs of toasted brioche topped with streaky bacon and swimming in maple syrup. If you’re down in Leith where there’s a smattering of Fringe venues, Toast on the Shore is another good brunch spot dishing up Mexican huevos rancheros: chipotle spiced tomato and black bean stew on a corn tortilla, with crumbled feta, two poached eggs and smashed avo.

Later, for lunch-on-the-go you could stock up on picnic staples at Edinburgh’s peppering of gourmet delis such as legendary Valvona & Crolla or little Herbie down in Stockbridge and head to Inverleith Park or the Meadows. Or tuck into a Big Hot Sandwich from Alby’s (Leith and Southside). The doorstep sarnies are bursting with fillings such as fried oyster mushroom, Sichuan seasoning, doubanjiang mayo, pickled chillis, carrot, daikon and sesame slaw and shredded Chinese cabbage. If you’d rather grab a table, veggie restaurant Henderson’s has a good £12 Lunch Deal Monday to Friday 12-4pm, think Mac’n’Cheese with nasturtium, spinach pesto, onion bread crumbs and mixed leaves.

Some shows even offer food. At Venue 572 (that’s the Yotel on Queen Street) Daniel Martiniez’s lunchtime flamenco show at 1pm every day gives a flavour of Spain with tapas and a glass of wine, while at Fringe hubs such as the Pleasance Courtyard there’s a huddle of food stalls where you can grab a quick bite from Edinburgh stalwarts such as Mimi’s Bakehouse to Harajuku Streetfood.

A little out on a limb, but perfect for a break from the crowds, a breath of sea air and views over the Firth of Forth to the Forth Bridges, Street food market The Pitt moved recently from Leith to Granton. During the Fringe they’re hosting an exhibition, Brick Journeys, models built from LEGO® bricks, celebrating how humans have travelled through time from hot air balloons to rockets – including a model of the iconic Forth Road Bridge. The resident food trucks range from Buffalo Truck (buttermilk fried chicken burgers) to Choola’s award-winning Nepalese street food and Lazeez for authentic Lebanese mezze.  

Edinburgh might not be the cheapest city in terms of accommodation, especially during the summer’s festival frenzy, but eating out at the Fringe at least doesn’t have to come with a hefty price tag.

Lucy Gillmore is a freelance journalist who left a newspaper travel desk for the Highlands’ hills. Dipping into Scotland’s ever-evolving food and drink scene she will be bringing us the latest news stories, dates for the diary and shining a light on local food heroes in a regular column.  You can follow her on @lucygillmore

New Skíō Pottery Collection Available Now

Skíō Pottery is run by Kayti Peschke and Luke Seaton, working from a small studio that looks out across Loch Bay on the Isle of Skye. The sea, the light, and the weather are part of their daily view, and those changes find their way into what they make. Their stoneware is produced in small batches, each one shaped, glazed, and fired by hand.

The colours and finishes are drawn from the island itself. Some pieces start with basalt-black clay, others are glazed in tones that call to mind seaweed on the tide, pale lichen on rock, or the soft grey of low cloud. They keep their designs simple, letting the texture of the clay and the glaze speak for themselves.

Alongside mugs and bowls made to be used every day, they also work on one-off designs. Both have a patience for the slow process of making, and the results carry that care in how they feel in the hand.

We now have a new collection from Skíō available to buy. Each piece carries the same link to Skye’s land and sea, offering something practical and beautiful, made in the place that inspired it.

Find out more.

On This Day in 1460: A Nine-Year-Old Was Crowned King of Scotland at Kelso Abbey

James II died suddenly at Roxburgh in August 1460, killed when a siege cannon exploded. His son, just nine years old, was hurried to nearby Kelso Abbey. There, among hurriedly gathered nobles and clergy, James III was crowned. The crown sat heavy on his head, robes pooling at his feet. There was no time for pageantry. Within days, Roxburgh fell and its walls were torn down. The boy was king, but Scotland’s real power lay with those who stood beside him that day.

The Hay Loft at Glen Dye

The Hay Loft at Glen Dye is far from the working barn it once was. From the track it appears spruce clad and sharply finished, but inside there is warmth. Stacked logs by the stove, open plan living, sunlight pooling across the floor, and the scent of pine drifting in from the surrounding woodland. Beyond the picture window the hillside rises toward the granite peak of Clachnaben. Outside, a wood fired hot tub waits beneath the trees. Trails begin at the door and lead into 30,000 acres where comfort and landscape sit easily alongside one another.

Find out more here.

Following The Quiet Road Around Loch Awe

For most people travelling to Oban, Loch Awe will be a familiar sight. There are some popular stops to experience on its banks, but the main road only reveals a tiny portion. This is Scotland’s longest freshwater loch and when I turned onto the road less travelled, I discovered a quiet place with less obvious attractions, but a lot more serenity!

To read this full itinerary please click here.

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