Hi 👋

We’re kicking off the week by heading underwater. From dolphins and porpoises to the return of humpback whales, this week’s main feature explores the marine life found just off Scotland’s coasts, along with the stories of the people working to protect it. There’s also a fresh itinerary from Graeme Johncock, this time exploring the lochs, legends and landscapes of Rothiemurchus and Glen More in the Cairngorms.

Plus, this Sunday’s special offer is now live. Save over 30 percent on our set of Hidden Scotland Magazines, issues 02 to 11, now £90 while stocks last.

A World Beneath the Waves

When searching for some of Scotland’s most impressive wildlife, it helps to look where the eye doesn’t usually see.

Scotland is famous for its wildlife. But when you picture it, you probably see a red deer on a misty morning, a red squirrel on a pine tree, or a golden eagle soaring through the sky.

However, there is much more Scottish wildlife than what can be seen on land and in the air. In fact, the waters around Scotland hold some of our best (and biggest) creatures. From the diminutive harbour porpoise to the enormous fin whale (the world’s second longest-living animal), over 28 species of dolphin and whale call the Scottish coastline home. Minke whales are the most commonly spotted whale species, occurring mainly during the summer but with some individuals remaining over the winter. 

Humpback whales are also making a return, and the Hebridean seas host one of the highest densities of harbour porpoise in Europe. There is even a resident pod of orcas, known as the West Coast community. Unfortunately, the pod hasn’t reproduced in decades and so may not be around for much longer. 

On the whole, whales and dolphins appear to be doing very well in our waters, and with them, they have brought new opportunities for coastal communities as people flock to see these unique animals. But, like many other European countries, Scotland’s relationship with whales wasn’t always so respectful.

A History of Whaling 

For hundreds of years, ships departed Scotland bound for remote parts of the world with a single goal in mind: hunting and harvesting whales. Whaling was an extremely lucrative trade. Whale oil was used for street lighting and in-home heating and was a crucial component in the jute sacking industry. While the meat would have rotted long before reaching home, a single whalebone might sell for up to £3,000 and would be used as a high-end construction material that found particular use in the assembly of corsets. Dundee, Peterhead and Greenock were Scotland’s most important whaling ports, and the Southern Ocean and Antarctica the most common destination. In fact, the first known photographs of Antarctica were taken during the Dundee Whaling Expedition in 1892, and Antarctica’s geography is littered with Scottish place names, including Dundee Island, Mount Dalrymple and the Scotia Sea. In 1986, the International Whaling Commission banned commercial whaling around the world. However, whaling had effectively ended in Scotland long before this date, as the industrial revolution increased reliance on alternate fuels and whaling trips became prohibitively costly. And yet, a legacy remains. In fact, if you find yourself on The Shore in Leith, you will see a harpooning gun that was once used in this cruel industry. 

If you go down to the waters today 

After centuries of persecution, whale populations are believed to be recovering worldwide. This gives us an incredible opportunity to study these elusive mammals, and there are several Scottish organisations devoted to doing just that. Based on the Isle of Mull, the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust (HWDT) has been pioneering the conservation of whales, dolphins and porpoises in the waters of western Scotland for over two decades. Today, much of HWDT’s work is learning about the different populations off Scotland’s coast and helping them thrive. “You can only protect what you understand, so we’ve been trying to deepen the knowledge of whales and dolphins in Hebridean waters,” says Morven Summers, Communications Manager at HWDT. 

“Our conservation work is underpinned by our long-term data collection programmes. Through citizen science and long-term research projects, HWDT generates the knowledge and evidence needed to drive effective marine conservation.” This is important because, while whaling has ended, whales and dolphins still face many threats. “Globally, whales and dolphins are faced with climate change, bycatch, pollution, habitat degradation, to name a few,” continues Morven, “Off the west coast of Scotland, we are concerned about noise pollution and entanglement in fishing gear and marine debris.” “Entanglement is the largest identified cause of death due to human activity in minke and humpback whales in Scottish waters.” But, partially through the efforts of HWDT, there is hope. Recently, a ground-breaking project to help reduce wildlife entanglement in creel fishing gear in Scottish waters was announced. 

The first of its kind in the UK, this project brings together commercial creel fishers, NatureScot, research scientists, and marine mammal conservation and rescue charities to better understand the scale and impact of marine animal entanglement in Scottish waters. Creel fishers participated in training events and workshops to promote best practise, reduce entanglement risk, and learn how to safely disentangle marine animals from their gear. It’s just one of many programmes around the country that aims to ensure that Scottish waters are always welcome to whales and dolphins, as well as the visitors they inevitably bring.

Want to see for yourself? 

So, where can you go to see whales and dolphins for yourself? Well, if you’ve got sea legs and fancy getting out on the water, a boat trip will offer some of the best and certainly closest encounters. There are now guided boat tours and whale watching cruise operators around the Scottish coastline. The HWDT advise always going with an operator that has undergone WiSe training. The WiSe Scheme teaches boat operators how to responsibly watch for wildlife on the water, and details of certified tour operators can be found on the WiSe website. And if you are lucky enough to see a whale or dolphin in Scottish waters, you can contribute to the work of the HWDT by reporting the sighting using the free Whale Track app. These sightings help the HWDT track the movements of coastal species and uncover the mysteries of rare visitors, including humpback and orca. Every sighting adds to the growing understanding of whales and dolphins in Scottish waters. So whether you see a pod of humpback whales or a single harbour porpoise, add your sighting and help the HWDT learn about and protect the species. If you’d like to support the Hebridean Whale & Dolphin Trust or report a cetacean sighting, visit their website on hwdt.org or download the free Whale Track app.

To find a certified tour operator or to learn more about the WiSe Scheme, you can visit wisescheme.org.

words // Kieran Lynn - photography // Becky Dudley

Sunday Special Offer - The Set

£90.00 £150.00

Save on the complete set of Hidden Scotland Magazine issues 02 to 11, now £90 from the original £150. Each edition is filled with rich photography, in-depth features, local recommendations, and inspiring stories that uncover the character and charm of Scotland. From coastal escapes to cultural insights, this bundle makes a thoughtful gift or keepsake for anyone passionate about Scotland. Please note, Issue 01 is not included as it is sold out.

£90.00 £150.00

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

A Day In the Cairngorms – Rothiemurchus & Glen More

In the heart of Scotland, you’ll find the Cairngorm mountains and at the heart of the Cairngorms, you’ll find Rothiemurchus & Glen More. Tucked away behind the popular town of Aviemore, it’s a vast estate with lochs, hills, forests and above all else, stories. Sometimes I treat it as a stopping point between Perth and Inverness, but if I have the time, it’s the perfect place to spend an entire day!

Loch an Eilein
15 minute drive from Aviemore

After leaving the town and heading along a few winding roads, you’ll reach Loch an Eilein where there’s a good-sized car park, although it costs a small fee. The name means the loch of the island and if you head along the path through the trees along the right-hand side of the water, it soon comes into view. Even in its dilapidated state, you can’t miss the ruins of Loch an Eilean Castle, taking up almost the entire island with the water lapping at its walls. Built in the 13th century, it was once home to the notorious Wolf of Badenoch. Amazingly, it was still lived in by Jean Gordon when she sheltered fleeing Jacobites there after Culloden in 1745!

White Croft Company

Before heading back to the car, take a short detour to the White Croft Company shop in an old cottage near the toilets. While you can grab some snacks or ice cream inside, it’s the scattered collection of antiques and local crafts that always grabs my attention!

The Doune of Rothiemurchus
5 minute drive 

One of my favourite locations to show people isn’t far away at the Doune of Rothiemurchus. There’s no car park, so it can take a little bit of time to walk from the nearest safe space, but it’s well worth the effort. As you plod down a grassy track between ancient pines, oaks and sycamores, eventually an enclosure surrounded by yew trees appears. Inside lies the ruins of an old church with very peculiar grave covered in a metal cage. That’s the resting place of Seath Mor, chief of Clan Shaw in the 14th century and said to be a fearsome warrior. It’s believed his spirit roams Rothiemurchus challenging travellers to fight! On his grave, 5 strange looking stones can be seen beneath the cage. Local legend says that anybody who touches the stones will suffer great misfortune and there were so many victims that the grave had to be protected this way in the 1980s!

Lunch at the Rothiemurchus Barn
5 minute drive

After spending the morning on Rothiemurchus estate, it makes sense to eat some local produce at the Barn! The specials are laid out canteen style with local meat usually on the menu, although I tend to go for the Cullen Skink. You can find more local produce in the wee shop next door.

Loch Morlich
10 minute drive

Deeper into the mountains along Glen More, Loch Morlich with its beautiful sandy beach. No matter the weather, this scenic spot is a special place with crystal clear water reflecting the vast forest and surrounding mountains. For anybody interested in water sports, there are boats, kayaks and canoes available to hire or it’s a 6km circuit around the loch if you need to stretch your legs.

Cairngorm Reindeer Herd
2 minute drive 

For something truly unique, these mountains are home to Scotland’s only wild herd of reindeer! A visit to the Cairngorm Reindeer Centre gives you the chance to get up close and personal with these amazing animals that once roamed much of Scotland. Sadly, they were hunted to extinction and so this reintroduced herd have to be carefully managed. If you have plenty of time, then tickets are available to head out to the hills to feed the main herd for a couple of hours. For those without the time or fitness to manage that, the reindeer spend a few days in a paddock at the centre on rotation. They can’t be fed or handled in the paddock, but you’ll still be able to admire them up close!

An Lochan Uaine
45 minute walk

End the day with a short hike out to an extraordinary wee place. An Lochan Uaine is much smaller than Loch Morlich, but it’s got a very special quality – it’s green! Nobody knows for sure where the Green Lochan gets its colour, theories stretch from the reflection of the trees or a special type of algae, however, storytellers know better. We know that this is where the fairies wash their clothes! Fairies are typically portrayed wearing green, so the colour of their laundry has leaked into the water here and turned it this vibrant colour! It’s a quiet spot and an easy stroll to get here, just hope you don’t bump into any mischievous fairies on the walk back!

Written by Graeme Johncock To check out more of Graeme’s Scottish Itinearies, click here.

Did you know that Wick in Caithness was once a dry town?

When we think of prohibition, minds might jump to 1920s USA, but Wick in Caithness was a dry town for almost twice as long as America! In the later 1800s, Wick was a major herring port and during the fishing season, the workers drank a lot of whisky to keep them going. The drunken state of the workforce got so bad that by 1922, the people of the town voted for prohibition. Every pub and bar in the town had their license revoked, with secret drinking dens popping up around the streets instead. Secret knocks and passwords were needed if you wanted to gain entry. Everybody else took the train to Lybster or Thurso on the weekend, until the ban on alcohol was lifted 25 years later

Enjoy 10% Off Your Winter Escape at Atholl Estates

Atholl Estates is offering 10 percent off winter stays across a selection of Highland lodges and cottages, available from early January through to March. Set across woodland and lochside locations near Blair Atholl, the properties range from shepherd huts and traditional cottages to contemporary cabins. It is a good time to explore Highland Perthshire at a quieter pace, with winter walks on the doorstep, Pitlochry Festival Theatre nearby, and House of Bruar within easy reach.

10% OFF WINTER STAYS*
USE CODE: BOXINGDAY10

Find out more

*Valid for stays from 5th January - 15th March 2026.

Ready for issue 12? - Subscribe today to read it first.

Be the first to discover what’s inside the next issue of Hidden Scotland Magazine. Subscribers get early access before the public launch, along with a beautifully wrapped copy that includes a free bookmark and A5 print of the cover. Sign up today to stay ahead and receive every issue first.

Free Gift

As a subscriber you will receive a free bookmark and A5 print of the cover image with each magazine. This will come hand wrapped in tissue and sealed with a sticker.

How it works

Issues launch in April and October, with subscribers receiving their copies first. They arrive hand wrapped in tissue and accompanied by a bookmark and an A5 print of the cover image. Subscription fees are automatically billed just before dispatch.

First Look

Subscribers not only get first look at our cover image, they also receive the magazine before the public launch.

Quiz Answers

Issue 11 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 11.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!