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This week’s email takes you from the Black Isle to the southern tip of Shetland, with stories and suggestions that celebrate Scotland’s quieter corners. Illustrator and shop owner Tori Gray offers her insider’s guide to exploring the Black Isle, from sea swims and local coffee spots to browsing handmade finds. Meanwhile, Graeme Johncock continues his journey north, uncovering tales of ancient brochs, wartime bravery, and windswept headlands in Shetland.

We’ve also got a few festive reminders. Our 2026 Calendar is nearly sold out, and the limited Christmas edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine is down to the last few copies. There’s still time to enter our winter escape giveaway too, with a two-night stay at The Lovat on Loch Ness up for grabs.

A weekend exploring The Black Isle - a local’s guide

Tori Gray lives and works in Fortrose in the Black Isle. In this feature Tori shares her insight into the area’s top attractions, activities, as well as where to eat, drink and shop like a local.

Meet your local guide - Tori Gray

I’m Tori, illustrator and owner of Harbour Lane – a bricks and mortar shop selling the work of over 100 different UK-based makers and small businesses. We are best known for our range of homeware that features my illustrations that we handmake to order in store. Our lampshades are our hero product with people buying one and then coming back for more and more. We have had our shop in South Queensferry for eight years and just moved up to the Black Isle in December so that we could open shop no.2. We live above the shop so we can juggle shop life with parenting our two young kids. In fact Calder was born in the middle of the shop renovations and was only just eight weeks old when we opened the doors to Harbour Lane Highlands.

How long have you lived in the Black Isle, and what brought you here?

We have lived in the Black Isle for just over six months now so I suppose we are still newbies to the area but we have completely fallen for it. We moved here in the depths of winter when I was eight months pregnant because we’d found a house with a shop attached that would allow us to juggle shop owner life and parenting without the need to commute. Both the house and the shop were ‘fixer-uppers’ but it was perfect for us and what we wanted to try and achieve.

What is it that you particularly enjoy about living and working in this part of Scotland?

I know we haven’t been here long but inspiration hit immediately. We live just a five minute dog walk from the beach so we are there twice a day, every day. I’m always happiest next to water and our local harbour is such a hub of activity. From sailing, to paddle boarding and a whole bunch of wild swimmers, there is always something different happening in the water no matter the weather so you can’t help but soak that all up.

What advice would you give to anyone looking to explore the area?

My first bit of advice would be to bring clothing to suit every eventuality. It is the Highlands after all so the weather is ‘changeable’ at best, but also to give yourself plenty of time. I know it doesn’t look like a huge area on the map but it definitely needs more than a day or two to fully explore and discover all the hidden gems we have here. I think people possibly think they can do it as a wee ‘day trip’ from Inverness and although you’d definitely still enjoy that, you’d be missing out on so many things the area has to offer.

Can you give us a rundown on what the Black Isle is like as the seasons change, and in your opinion when is the best time to visit?

We haven’t been here a full year yet but I would say we have experienced the two extremes of the seasons. Winter is definitely cold and dark, things slow down and quite a few businesses reduce their opening hours. I don’t mind that though as everything feels calmer and quieter. It’s the chance to reflect and get cosy compared to the summer when it barely gets dark and there is much more of a buzz about the place. Both are good, it just depends what vibe you’re looking for.

Tori’s ideal weekend in the Black Isle..

DAY 1 

Start the day with a dog walk or a swim down at Fortrose beach to get the endorphins going and then walk up and grab a just-out-the-oven pain au chocolat from Bakhoos Bakery to help warm you up. Then mosey along the road to visit us at Harbour Lane and get your dopamine hit from a bit of retail therapy. All that shopping obviously makes you hungry so nip along to IV10 and grab something fresh and yummy to help you refuel. End the day with a locally brewed beer from Black Isle Brewery.

DAY 2

Check the tide times so you can catch a glimpse of the dolphins out at Chanonry Point then hop in the car and make your way over to Cromarty to get a coffee and a cake from Slaughter House Coffee. Then a wander along the front to take in the view and treat yourself to an ice cream from the van in Fishertown Inn. Cromarty has lots of independent shops so it’s great for a nosey and to treat yourself to something before grabbing a takeaway pizza from Sutor Creek and heading home.

To read the full article and all of Tori’s suggestions, click here.

To learn more about Harbour Lane, visit their website.

Last few Calendars remaining

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2026. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

Special Sunday Offer

Add our new Hidden Scotland 2026 Calendar to your order and enjoy £5 off as a seasonal thank-you. The calendar features twelve A4 photographic prints and is produced on premium matte stock, making it a beautiful addition to any wall.

Use code 2026 to redeem.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

A Day In The South Of Shetland

It takes a bit of effort for most people to get to Shetland, but a trip to Scotland’s most northerly islands is well worth it. I’ve been lucky enough to make the journey a few times and every time I’m blown away by the local history, scenery and culture. Shetland is unlike anywhere else in Scotland and just a single day in the south of the main island makes that very apparent.

Wander Lerwick’s Old Town

Most journeys to Shetland will involve stepping off a ferry in Lerwick in the early hours of the morning. I like to start the day exploring the old streets of the islands’ main town. One house stands out in particular, known as The Lodberrie, famous as the home of Jimmy Perez in the hit TV show – Shetland. There were once many more buildings like this, right on the shore with their own warehouse that allowed merchants to move goods immediately inside rather than carting it along from the harbour.

Explore Clickimin Broch
5 minute drive

On the edge of Lerwick, you get your first taste of Shetland’s ancient history at Clickimin Broch. Standing on a peninsula in a small loch, this is one of dozens of brochs around the Shetland Isles. These drystone towers were built around 2000 years ago and while most are just piles of stones, Clickimin has been tidied up in recent history.

We don’t know much about how brochs were originally used, but wandering the few stone passageways and admiring the carefully constructed 5m high walls gives a small insight into the builder’s lives. It’s hard to believe that a man called Hugh Mackay cared so little that he robbed much of the stone to build his stables in the 19th century!

Visit The Old Capital Of Scalloway
10 minute drive

Travelling west across the mainland brings you to the old capital of Shetland – Scalloway. It’s home to one of the few castles in the Northern Isles and although the doors are closed for conservation, it has a story so dark that’s maybe for the best. This was built in the 16th century by Patrick Stewart, the most wicked man in Shetland history. He ruled by fear and oppression, using locals as forced labour and legend says their blood is mixed into the mortar of the castle. He was eventually arrested by the Scottish crown after being caught hiding in the tower of Scalloway Castle!

Learn About The Shetland Bus

Near the castle you’ll find a monument to one of the most remarkable stories from World War II. When the Nazis invaded Norway in 1940, many fishing boats escaped across the sea to find shelter in Shetland. Amazingly, they then volunteered to go back! The fishing boats were used to smuggle weapons and agents into Norway, loading up with refugees for the return journey. Forced to wait for the longer winter nights, it was an extremely dangerous journey carried out by incredibly brave men and forever remembered as The Shetland Bus!

Lunch in The Hoswick Visitor Centre
20 minute drive

One of my favourite places for lunch in Shetland is the Hoswick Visitor Centre, usually packed with locals. Make sure to try the local delicacy of bannocks with salt beef which go very well with soup!

Grab A Gift From Shetland Woollen Co

Almost next door to the visitor centre, the Shetland Woollen Co makes an excellent place to pick up a lasting souvenir. Shetland has a long history of knitwear and not only do their traditional jumpers look good, but they come in very handy on a cold day!

Cross Over To St Ninian’s Isle
15 minute drive

One of the most beautiful scenes in Shetland is the tombolo of sand leading to St Ninian’s Isle. Waves crash on either side as you make the short walk over to this tiny island that was once home to a medieval chapel. In 1958, a schoolboy uncovered a buried hoard of Pictish silver there, a copy of which is held in the Shetland Museum in Lerwick!

Discover the Shetland Crofthouse
15 minute drive

Walking inside the Shetland Crofthouse is like stepping back in time, as if the last inhabitant has just gone to tend the animals. It’s presented exactly as it would have been in the 1870s, complete with peat fire burning in the hearth! It’s simple but it’s very homely and would once have been a common sight across Shetland. The guides are incredibly knowledgeable, friendly and willing to answer all of your questions about the various tools and toys scattered around the croft!

Walk Through History At Jarlshof
10 minute drive

Jarlshof is easily one of the most incredible places I’ve ever visited, where you can literally walk through thousands of years of history. In the late 1800s, a storm uncovered evidence of something exciting beneath the ground and as archaeologists dug through the sand, they peeled back layers of history.

Now, visitors can walk through Neolithic huts, Bronze Age roundhouses, a broch, Viking longhouses and a medieval farmhouse! It’s truly incredible to see how many times this seaside spot was reused by Shetlanders who probably had no knowledge of what was beneath their feet!

Climb to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse

At the very southern tip of the Shetland mainland, a short uphill walk takes you to Sumburgh Head Lighthouse. On a clear day, the views are vast from up here and seabirds soar and dive all around the cliffs. It’s the perfect spot to watch the sun dip before retracing your steps north back to Lerwick!

Written by Graeme Johncock To check out more of Graeme’s Scottish Itinearies, click here.

Win a Winter Escape to the Lovat Hotel

Escape to the banks of Loch Ness with a two-night stay at @thelovatlochness in Fort Augustus.

We’re giving one winner the chance to experience this beautiful Highland hotel, complete with breakfast each morning and dinner for two at @stationroadlochness

To enter head over to our Instagram for more details

Cut-off time is Sunday 18th December at 12pm, with the winner announced the next day.

The stay can be taken between 15th Dec ’25 and the end of April ’26, excluding Christmas and Hogmanay, and is subject to availability.

Last Chance to order

Gift the Limited Christmas Edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine with a parcel that feels special the moment it arrives.

Gift the new Hidden Scotland Magazine – Issue 11 this Christmas. Each copy arrives beautifully hand-wrapped in bespoke paper designed by Scottish illustrator Joy Nevada, ready to place under the tree.

Inside, the magazine is accompanied by a collectable A5 art print of the front cover image and a Hidden Scotland bookmark, all presented in our custom Hidden Scotland box. You can send it directly to the recipient or have it delivered to you for gifting in person.

P.S. Our Christmas Gift Box has now sold out, though there’s still a great selection of festive gifts available. You can browse the full range here and use the code CHRISTMAS15 for 15% off your order.

Quiz Answers

Issue 11 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 10.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!