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This week’s email starts in Dumfries and Galloway, where Louis D. Hall heads into the region that helped shape Peter Pan, then out across dark skies, forests, coasts and small towns with long memories. From there, Graeme Johncock takes the wheel for a daytrip from Oban to Glencoe, with stops that make the drive feel like the point rather than the gap between them, then finishes with a simple shortlist of places to stay nearby.

There’s a Sunday Special Offer running this weekend too. Our magazine set is £90 (usually £150), and we’ll include The Best of Skye book free with every set ordered before the offer ends. (last few hours).

Elsewhere, this week’s accommodation pick is The Coach House at Glen Dye, a restored former toll house beside the Bridge of Dye, now set up for exclusive-use stays with five bedrooms, a wood-fired hot tub, and access to the estate’s BYOB pub, sauna sessions, and shared spaces.

Enjoy the extra long quiz this week, and good luck.

Dumfries and Galloway has long drawn storytellers, from Barrie’s Neverland to Burns, Reivers and writers who followed. Louis D. Hall traces its art, dark skies, forests, coasts and communities, and the wildness that sits close by.

Defining this region depends on who you ask. Author of Peter Pan, J.M. Barrie, attributed the creation of his neverland tale to the ‘enchanted’ land where he spent much of his youth, ‘our escapades in a certain Dumfries garden… was certainly the genesis of this work.’ Inspiring Jessie M. King, EA Taylor and many of ‘The Glasgow Boys’, artists from Kirkcudbright might also agree. Fearing French invasion, however, over one hundred years previously, crouched over an ale in Dumfries’ Globe Tavern, Robert Burns illustrated the area with scenes of patriotism: The Nith shall run to Corsincon, And Criffel sink in Solway, Ere we permit a foreign foe. Before the Act of Union in 1603, hardy inhabitants in the east of the region may have disclosed a realm of violence and secrecy; Reivers - sheep and cattle thieves from both sides - roamed in darkness across the ‘Debatable Lands’ between England and Scotland. Beyond the UK, Sir Walter Scott brought Dumfries and Galloway to international fame in fictional books such as Guy Mannering and Redgauntlet, while writer John Buchan fuelled the romantic mirage of an escapists’ realm in Thirty-Nine Steps.

Yet as words and depictions continue to evolve, the essence of this place remains the same: eclectic in production, rich in history, and centred around community. Although one county, Dumfries and Galloway was once divided into three: Dumfriesshire, Wigtownshire and Kirkcudbrightshire (the last two collectively known as Galloway). Forging the border at the most easterly point of Dumfriesshire is the tweed, craft and textiles town of Langholm and the Famous Blacksmiths Shop of Gretna Green - a notorious elopement destination since the 1760s. If you head northwest up the river Annan, you come across Moffat, UK’s first ‘Dark Sky Town’ set in the heart of the Southern Uplands. With its own distillery and at the crossroads of three national trails, it’s a great spot for unrushed explorers and star gazers alike. Six miles north lies the historic hollow in the hills (1400 feet deep): The Devil’s Beef Tub. Named after the cow hustling Border Reivers, it also claims host to ancient woodland, the notorious sixth century ‘wizard’ Merlin, and Robert the Bruce; the King of Scots made use of this area during the Wars of Independence against the bordering English.

As impossible a task as it may be through words, attempting to impress the sheer extent of Dumfries and Galloway’s natural beauty is worthwhile. Once described as a ‘rural backwater,’ a sure source of the area’s rich biodiversity surely relies on its ‘out of the way’ location. In 2012, Galloway was recognised as Scotland’s first UNESCO biosphere, ‘a world-class environment for people and nature.’ At a local level, with centuries of sheep, dairy and beef farming, the area thrives chiefly on agriculture. While traveling through, nothing quite beats the sight of a herd of Belted Galloway cows roaming on a lush green hill, a thick white stripe belting their black bellies. Forestry is key here too. Dumfries and Galloway is home to the largest wooded region in Britain: the 300 square mile Galloway Forest Park. With over 7,000 stars and planets visible, and attracting rare birds such as Capercaillie, Golden Eagle, and Ospreys, nature’s hold is real and flourishing.

On the west side of the park lies Glentrool, otherwise known as the Galloway Highlands. While boasting Southern Scotland’s highest peak (the Merrick), it was from Loch Trool that Robert the Bruce launched his campaign which culminated in the Battle of Bannockburn. Beyond the dense life found among the forests, lochs, skies and verdant hills, the region has a multitude of protected areas that maintain the county’s immense biodiversity. To name but a few: Stranraer’s Glenwhan Gardens, ‘the most beautiful gardens in Scotland’; the birdwatchers paradise of RSPB Mersehead; Grey Mare’s Waterfall in Moffat Water Valley; the 20,000 acre Caerlaverock National Nature Reserve (a unique expanse of sand, sea, mud and merse along the Solway Coast), and Scotland’s most southerly point, the Mull of Galloway. Identifiable offshore by the operational 85-foot lighthouse, the Mull is a hidden gem beading out into the Irish Sea. Like much of the North Channel coastline, the Mull’s warm climate from the Gulf Stream allows for stunning gardens above, most notably the Logan Botanic Garden (‘Scotland’s Most Exotic Garden’). The wide stretching beaches below provide some of the best places in the UK to view mink whales, dolphins, puffins, kittiwakes and guillemots. Arrive on the last Sunday of the month and you’ll hear the lighthouse foghorn reverberate along the cliffs, booming across the water.

To read more of Louis Articles click here.

This weekend we’re running a very special offer on our magazine set. Receive every available issue for £90 (usually £150), and when you order the set this weekend, we’ll include our The Best of Skye book (worth £18) free of charge, packed in with your order.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

The town of Oban on Scotland’s west coast is one of my favourite places to visit. It might be known as the Gateway to the Isles, but its position in Argyll also makes it the perfect place to explore areas of the Scottish mainland. In just one short hour, you can reach Glencoe in the north, but if you have the time, I’d recommend making it a daytrip!

Castle Stalker View
30 minute drive

Clinging desperately to a tiny island in Loch Laich, Castle Stalker makes one of the most picturesque views on the west coast. Once a stronghold of the Stewarts, in the 1400s their chief was killed by the Campbells, the castle captured and the chief’s baby son whisked away to safety!

Nicknamed Donald of the Hammers, the boy returned as an adult to raise the clan and win back his home! Incredibly, 200 years later, his descendants lost Stalker again in a drunken bet. Thankfully, it was restored in the early 1900s and remains in private hands.

There are occasional boat tours during the tourist season, but it’s impressive enough just to look at from the viewpoints by the loch or café on the hill.

Glencoe Lochan
25 minute drive

After travelling along the coast of Loch Linnhe, the Pap of Glencoe soon comes into sight. Before heading into the narrow glen itself, pass through the village to the hidden trail around Glencoe Lochan.

There are routes for all abilities in surroundings that most visitors miss. Skirting the loch is the quickest option, with conifers and mountains reflected in the calm surface of the water. The trees were planted by Lord Strathcona in the 1890s as a romantic gesture to help cure his Canadian wife’s homesickness.

Glencoe Visitor Centre
10 minute drive

One of the highlights of Glencoe involves a trip to the Visitor Centre. Weave your way through the shop and out the back to find the reconstructed Glencoe Turf House, showing how people in much of Scotland lived in the 17^th century!

The smell of peat smoke has been absorbed by the building, giving the surroundings even more character. Imagine a family sitting with their neighbours around the fire, telling stories of ghosts, fairies, kelpies and heroes!

In 1692, a regiment of soldiers were sheltered by the MacDonalds of Glencoe, in houses just like this, for almost two weeks. Shockingly, at 5am on the 13^th February, orders were given to the soldiers to massacre their hosts. It was an act of infamy that’s echoed down through history.

Lunch at Clachaig Inn
5 minute drive

Easily my favourite place to have lunch in Glencoe, the Clachaig Inn is packed with personality. It sits in the shadows of the mountains and the towering views outside can be a little bit intimidating!

My personal recommendation here is always the ham, cheese and chutney sandwich with a mug of soup.

Three Sisters of Glencoe
5 minute drive

The Three Sisters of Glencoe make one of Scotland’s most iconic scenes. These three hills, backed by even taller mountains, are simply stunning at any time of the year. There are a few different viewpoints along the glen, each giving a different appreciation of the surrounding scenery.

Feel free to go for a wander on the paths around the lower slopes and see if you can spot the entrance to Coire Gabhail. Often known as the Hidden/Lost Valley, this sheltered spot between Beinn Fhada and Gearr Aonach is said to be where the MacDonalds of Glencoe hid cattle stolen from their neighbours!

 Rannoch Moor Viewpoint~
15 minute drive

Leaving the mountains of Glencoe behind, you suddenly burst into the starkly different landscape of Rannoch Moor. This vast, flat expanse is a dangerous combination of lochans and bogs interspersed with tufts of heather, known as one of Europe’s last great wildernesses. On a clear, still day, the water reflects to distant peaks perfectly.

Kilchurn Castle
40 minute drive

Upon reaching Loch Awe, take a very short detour to the A819 layby overlooking Kilchurn Castle. Built in the 1400s by the Campbells of Glenorchy, their power grew astronomically until they abandoned this scenic spot for a more luxurious home in Perthshire.

Kilchurn fell into the dramatic ruin that we see today, perfectly seen from this spot across the water!

St Conan’s Kirk
5 minute drive

Not far away, the architectural wonder of St Conan’s Kirk is as beautiful as it is bizarre. While it looks centuries old, it was only constructed in the late 19th century! Walter Campbell built it as a chapel of ease for his old mother who struggled with the coach journey every Sunday to the church at Dalmally.

Entry is by donation and make sure to admire the effigy of Robert the Bruce as well as the view from the sundial out over Loch Awe!

Stormhouse in Appin is a smart pick if you want to stay closer to Oban and Castle Stalker, while still being within easy reach of Glencoe the next morning.

Kabn on Loch Fyne suit anyone stretching the trip into a wider Argyll loop, with a quieter, design-led base away from the A82.

Glencoe House is the most direct option for a luxury stay in the glen itself, ideal if you want to slow the day down and avoid the late drive.

RiverBeds at Woodlands Glencoe is your own magical miniature hotel, tucked into the forest with a private Jacuzzi hot tub.

The Clachaig Inn is the classic Glencoe base, handy for food, a pint, and a straightforward overnight right in the heart of the glen.

No.26 By The Sea in Oban is a well-finished small hotel right on the waterfront, ideal if you’d rather keep Oban as your base and set off early.

Written by Graeme Johncock To check out more of Graeme’s Scottish Itinearies, click here.

This week's accommodation recommendation…

This former toll house and resting/stabling place sits beside the original Bridge of Dye built in 1680. It has been in continuous use since then, latterly as a farm house. In 2022, we revitalised the building and reinstated its original purpose. The Coach House now has five bedrooms and three bathrooms. There is one family room, two double rooms and two twin rooms.

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