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This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly includes one of the Highlands’ most distinctive places to stay and a journey through Highland Perthshire’s winding roads, ancient trees and quiet chapels.

We start at Newhall Mains, a restored farmstead on the Black Isle where you can arrive by small plane, borrow an e-bike or simply stay put and enjoy the croquet lawn. Then on to Perthshire, where Graeme Johncock shares his favourite detours from Birnam’s Shakespearean oak to painted ceilings and Jacobite leaps.

Elsewhere on the site, we’ve published new features for Hidden Scotland Members including articles on Edinburgh Castle’s darkest hour, Scotland’s best boutique hotels and a woodland retreat in Glen Dye that pairs hot tubs with forest walks.

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Newhall Mains: One of Scotland’s Finest Farmstays

The plan was to fly all the way down to Kenya from the Black Isle in Bessy his little six-seater Beechcraft Bonanza, Euan Ramsay is telling me. These American planes, in production since the late 1940s, have been nicknamed the Cadillac of the skies.  He made it as far as Abu Simbel in southern Egypt on the border with Sudan but was warned not to go any further as they were likely to be shot down. “We looked for an alternative route, but couldn’t get fuel in Saudi,” he continues, so they had to turn back.  

We’re sitting in the courtyard of Newhall Mains sipping Negronis in the sun overlooking the croquet pitch as he explains his passion for small planes and why, one of the first things he did when converting the farm’s 18th-century ‘Mains’ building into a luxury boutique hotel was put in a grass airstrip.

He offers to take me up in Bessy another time – normally she’s in the hanger but is currently away for a little mechanical TLC. So does the runway get a lot of use I wonder? “Three or four planes a week,” he nods, “hobbyists who fly up and stay for a night or two.”  

If you don’t have your own plane, the hotel can arrange scenic flights with Highland Aviation taking off from the grass runway and flying up the Great Glen over Loch Ness and the ruins of Urquhart Castle to Ben Nevis on the west coast before bearing right to the Isle of Skye. Other excursions include boat trips from nearby Cromarty to spot bottlenose dolphins in the firth and guided tours of the local whisky distilleries. 

Or you can just stay closer to home soaking up the tranquillity of this dreamy rural retreat, just a small detour off the popular NC500 roadtrip route. Sandwiched between the Cromarty and Beauly firths the Black Isle is a sleepy low-lying peninsula often overlooked as tourists career north.  

The hotel also has a fleet of smart e-bikes, lined up under the courtyard’s arched entrance, which you can borrow. But with two dogs in tow, watching me from the kitchen door of my ‘cottage’ as I enjoy pre-dinner drinks - and safely inside after a mini confrontation with the robot lawnmower tending the beautifully manicured lawns - I’m sticking to a yomp on the gorgeous curve of sand at nearby Rosemarkie.  

The Mains was once the beating hub of the farm. It was here that the workers on the 900-acre estate lived until, after the Second World War, advances in technology reduced the need for human labour. Euan’s family has farmed this land for four generations, but when he was growing up here these buildings were already derelict.  

After working in hospitality, as maître d’ at The Wolseley down in London, it was natural for him to be the one to head up the renovation and the farm’s first foray into tourism. The Mains is now a glorious honey-hued and lavender-lined quadrangle, comprising five cottages and four double bedroom suites, the interiors bold and colourful, wreathed in sumptuous fabrics – and dog-friendly. A dog basket and treats – wolfed down in seconds – was just inside the door.  It is a ‘hotel’ from April to the end of October and then for the winter season is available for self-catered holidays. New this year is a bespoke outdoor sauna and cold plunge pool in the middle of one of the fields by the old walnut tree. 

Food is one of the hotel’s main highlights, the chef, Matt Heeley, until recently worked at The Newt in Somerset, and the restaurant was awarded a Michelin Key in the inaugural awards in 2024. In the courtyard every Sunday afternoon guests can tuck into a wood-fired Sunday roast, with classic cuts from the farm slow-cooked over the Argentinian asado grill. Going on an excursion? Order a picnic hamper packed with local produce. 

In the main restaurant for dinner, the farm’s former grain store, my hand-dived Orkney scallops in a shellfish bisque are exquisitely tender, the space natural light-infused and elegant, the walls decorated with artworks on loan from the Royal Scottish Academy in Edinburgh, the view through the vast picture windows equally captivating: the estate’s fields rolling into the distance. 

Find all the details for booking your stay at Newhall Mains.

Lucy Gillmore is a freelance journalist who left a newspaper travel desk for the Highlands’ hills. Dipping into Scotland’s ever-evolving food, drink and accommodation scene she will be bringing us the latest news stories, dates for the diary and shining a light on local food heroes in a regular column.  You can follow her on @lucygillmore 

A Roadtrip Through Highland Perthshire

When it comes to spending a day in Highland Perthshire, you’re spoilt for choice! While people are often in a rush to head up the main road towards Inverness, I prefer to take my time and explore some of the scenery and history in this special part of Scotland. You might be surprised at what you find down a few of those side roads!

Birnam Oak

On the banks of the River Tay, often overlooked for its larger neighbour Dunkeld, there’s one thing very special about Birnam. A short walk from the main road takes you to the historic Birnam Oak. This gnarled tree is around 600 years old, with a hollow trunk to hide in and sticks holding up the heavy branches.

You might recognise the name, since this is one of the last survivors of the great Birnam Wood, immortalised in Shakespeare’s Macbeth. While not quite old enough to have met that King of Scots, there’s every chance that Shakespeare saw it as a sapling during his theatre tour of Scotland!

Dunkeld Cathedral
2 minute drive

Dunkeld isn’t a large town, but it’s got a lot to offer. Aside from the shops, eateries and scenery, it’s Dunkeld Cathedral that draws my attention. One of the oldest and most historic churches in Scotland, there’s an added surprise hidden inside.

Right at the back of the church, behind a wooden screen, lies the tomb of Alexander Stewart – the Wolf of Badenoch. The son of King Robert II, his effigy lies in full armour – fitting for his violent reputation!

Killiecrankie Visitor Centre
30 minute drive

This area of Perthshire is often called “Big Tree Country” and there are plenty of woodlands perfect for a wander. Killiecrankie is one of my highlights, with the River Garry tumbling through the pass and an epic story to go with it.

In 1689, an outnumbered Jacobite army won a great victory here against the odds, charging down the steep hillside and crashing into the government army. In the rout that followed, one of the government troops escaped by leaping over the river at a place now known as Soldier’s Leap.

Blair Castle
10 minute drive

The ancestral home of the Dukes of Atholl and Clan Murray, Blair Castle is a shining white guardian of this crucial route through the Highlands. The oldest part of the castle dates all the way back to the 13th century and there are centuries of history to uncover as you walk through the rooms.

Outside, take a stroll through the gardens and you might even catch a glimpse of the only private army in Europe – the Atholl Highlanders!

Lunch at House of Bruar
5 minute drive

The House of Bruar is famous as a luxury mall, but aside from the shopping, there’s a great restaurant for lunches. Local produce goes into delicious food with an especially good carvery on Sundays.

Queen’s View
25 minute drive

For sweeping vistas, there aren’t many that can compete with Queen’s View – made famous by Queen Victoria although often claimed to be named after one of Robert the Bruce’s wives. Looking out along the length of Loch Tummel, the pointed summit of Schiehallion can be seen clearly.

If the weather is clear and your eyes are good, then you can even see all the way to Glen Coe!

Scottish Crannog Centre
40 minute drive

A beautiful drive takes you to a fascinating reconstruction on the banks of Loch Tay. A visit to the Scottish Crannog Centre lets you wander through an Iron Age village, learning all about the life, traditions and crafts of Scotland’s ancient people.

Crannogs were wooden roundhouses built either on stilts or artificial islands in lochs around Scotland, only accessible via an easily defended walkway. A replica is currently under construction after an earlier version tragically burned down a few years ago.

St Mary’s Grandtully
20 minute drive

St Mary’s at Grandtully is one of my favourite hidden gems in all of Scotland. As you first approach, the building looks like an old cow byre, but step through the door and you’re met with something extraordinary.

This old chapel dates back to the early 1500s, but it’s the 1636 ceiling that rightfully gets all the attention. Clad in wooden panels, painted with heraldic images, birds of paradise, and Biblical scenes, it’s one of only two survivors in all of Scotland! It’s the perfect example of never judging a book by its cover.

The Highland Chocolatier
5 minute drive

A sweet treat is the perfect way to end the day and The Highland Chocolatier more than has that covered. Frequent winners of “World’s Best Truffle”, the selection of flavours is amazing. Aside from those, my personal favourite is the Dark Chocolate Frozen Ganache. Trust me, you won’t be disappointed!

This story was written by Graeme Johncock, to read more of Graeme’s Articles, stories and itineraries click here. Photographs by Simon Hird.

Available to read online - Issue 10

Our latest issue of Hidden Scotland Magazine, Issue 10, is now available to read online with a Hidden Scotland Membership. This edition marks a milestone and celebrates some of the inspiring people who shape Scotland today. Inside, you’ll find ten standout stories of creative projects across the country, a local’s guide to Glasgow, interviews with shop and gallery owners in Leith, and a conversation with Kim and Andy Murray about their award-winning hotel.

We’ve also followed the Highland Boundary Fault on a journey through landscapes and lives, explored the Borders, profiled a new Edinburgh restaurant, and dug into the story of Scotland’s ancient grains. Members get full digital access to this issue, along with every other edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine, all travel guides, new features, and curated itineraries. Membership starts from £3.33 per month.

Join today to read it all. Start Reading

Interesting news this week in Scotland

800-Year-Old Fyvie Castle Begins £5M Transformation
Fyvie Castle in Aberdeenshire, once linked to Robert the Bruce, is undergoing a £5 million upgrade as part of a bold ten-year restoration by the National Trust for Scotland. The first phase will conserve historic stonework, reopen hidden rooms, and convert a derelict Victorian farm into a vibrant visitor hub. New exhibitions, improved access, and updated storytelling will help bring the castle’s 800-year history into a new era.

Making Waves in Fife: International Art Exhibition Opens at Bowhouse
Running 19 July – 31 August, Making Waves; Breaking Ground returns to Bowhouse with a new summer show curated alongside London’s Purdy Hicks Gallery. Eleven international artists explore the natural world through painting, photography, and film—featuring mica seascapes, radioactive prints, and clay-based desert works. It’s Bowhouse’s third major summer show, affirming its place as one of Scotland’s most intriguing rural art destinations.

Masterplan for New Chapter in Fyvie’s 800-Year Story
The National Trust for Scotland has unveiled a long-term masterplan to revitalise Fyvie Castle. The vision includes enhanced public engagement, storytelling, and access, all while safeguarding the estate’s architectural and cultural heritage. Conservation and creativity go hand in hand as Fyvie prepares for a new era.

Newhailes Hosts Its Most Playful Summer Yet
Newhailes House & Gardens has launched its most family-friendly summer season to date. A giant sandpit, creative outdoor games, and hands-on activities reframe the historic estate as a place where heritage meets play—inviting visitors of all ages to explore the 17th-century grounds in new ways.

North by East: Paul Furneaux Exhibition at Drum Castle
Drum Castle presents North by East, a new exhibition of woodblock prints by Scottish artist Paul Furneaux. The show draws on his travels through Japan, the Americas, and Northern Europe, bringing global perspective into dialogue with one of Scotland’s oldest tower houses.

Outlander Dress Travels Through Time to Culross Palace
A costume worn by Geillis Duncan in Outlander is now on display at Culross Palace. The exhibit connects the screen drama with authentic 17th-century heritage, offering fans a deeper look at where film, fashion, and Scottish history meet.

Millais Returns to Perth: 300 Personal Treasures to Go on Display
Opening 25 July, Millais in Perthshire at Perth Art Gallery will display over 300 personal items belonging to Victorian painter John Everett Millais. On long-term loan from his great-grandson, the collection includes paintings, studio tools, letters, and heirlooms from Effie Gray. Entry is free.

Ancient Toys Go on Display in Shetland Museum
Shetland Museum’s new exhibit, Play in the Past, explores how Neolithic and Iron Age children learned through play. Highlights include miniature tools, toy millstones, dice, and a carved child’s sword—offering rare insights into early childhood in prehistoric Scotland.

After 500 Years, Cranes Are Returning to Aberdeenshire
Eurasian cranes—once extinct in Scotland—are nesting in Aberdeenshire again after five centuries. Thanks to habitat restoration, breeding pairs are now being recorded across the northeast, including Moray and the Black Isle. It marks a milestone for Scottish conservation.

For more interesting news from across Scotland, visit hiddenscotland.com/news and sign up to the Hidden Scotland Membership to receive news updates from your local area or the regions and topics you're most interested in.

New Articles On the Site

Newhall Mains: One of Scotland’s Finest Farmstays
Set on the Black Isle, Newhall Mains is a rare blend of heritage architecture, design-led interiors, and working farmland. This new feature explores why it’s become one of Scotland’s most sought-after rural retreats. Read the full story now.

Remembering the Battle of Halidon Hill
On the anniversary of one of Scotland’s most devastating defeats, this article revisits the events of 1333 and the choices that shaped a generation of war between Scotland and England. Read the full feature now on Hidden Scotland.

The Best Boutique Hotels in Scotland
A curated guide to the best boutique hotels across the country, from converted lighthouses to lochside hideaways. This new collection highlights places where good design and thoughtful hospitality meet. Explore the full guide now.

Edinburgh Castle’s Darkest Day – The Burning of Janet Douglas
This new historical feature uncovers the tragic story of Janet Douglas, Lady Glamis, accused of witchcraft and executed at Edinburgh Castle in 1537. It’s a tale of power, fear, and royal vengeance. Read the full article now.

Escape to Glen Dye: A Woodland Retreat with Hot Tubs and Wood-Fired Saunas
Glen Dye isn’t your average countryside stay. With outdoor baths, wood-fired saunas, and miles of forest at your doorstep, this new feature dives into what makes the retreat special. Read it now on Hidden Scotland.

9 Gardens in Scotland Worth Planning a Trip Around
From hidden physic gardens to grand castle estates, this new feature rounds up nine gardens across Scotland that are worth the journey. Read the full collection now.

For lots more articles, guides, and itineraries like these, we update the site every day for Hidden Scotland Members.

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