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This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly brings together shipwrecked treasures, mountain-backed beaches, and a haunting legend from Caithness.

We begin with the curious tale of the Mermaid of Dunnet Head, a local story with a dark twist. What starts as a seaside romance quickly turns into something else entirely. Greed has its price, and in this case, it’s paid in chains and cold sea caves.

Further north and west, Graeme Johncock takes us on a full-day journey around the Isle of Harris. From ancient stones and ruined churches to windswept beaches and tweed shops, it’s a route packed with stories, scenery, and plenty of spots to stop for coffee or a dram.

We’re also marking the anniversary of Walter Scott’s death on 21 September 1832, with a look at his life and legacy at Abbotsford. From Waverley to Ivanhoe, few writers shaped the image of Scotland so lastingly.

There’s the usual quiz, a curious fact or two, and a reminder that the full back catalogue of Hidden Scotland Magazine is now available to read online for members.

Thanks, as always, for reading and for being part of the Hidden Scotland community.

The Mermaid of Dunnet Head

There was once a beautiful Mermaid frequently spotted around Caithness, appearing on the beaches near Dunnet Head. She would just sit quietly on the rocks, combing her long blonde hair and minding her own business. If anybody tried to approach, the mysterious figure would quickly slip into the water and disappear without a trace.

One afternoon, a young lad turned a corner on the beach and stumbled upon the mermaid while she was daydreaming. Nobody had ever been this close and before she could escape, the boy managed to strike up a conversation. It went against all of her instincts, but something convinced the mermaid to stay and talk.

The intruder turned out to be very charming indeed and the pair made an agreement to meet at that same spot every day. Over time, they grew close and the mermaid began bringing gifts along to impress her human companion. There were countless shipwrecks along this coast and she had built up a stash of shiny artefacts from their cargo.

Little did the Mermaid know that her lover was using her gifts of gold and jewellery to woo the girls on shore. The man started to forget about meeting the mermaid some days and when he actually was there, seemed more interested in what she had brought than actually spending time with her.

When she eventually discovered what her gifts were being used for, the Mermaid was furious. She waited until the man came to visit her and began his usual questions about what presents she had for him today. This time, the mermaid asked if he’d like to see where she kept these treasures.

He was delighted at the thought. This way he could help himself whenever he pleased rather than relying on the mermaid to bring them to him. He was going to be rich!

The mermaid led him in a little boat around the coast to a tiny cave, hidden away near Dwarwick. Inside, the man was gazing at the enormous stash of wealth before him with eyes wide and mouth open. He didn’t even notice when the mermaid clasped a solid chain around him until it was too late.

There she cursed him for his greed. He would forever be a prisoner there, surrounded by all the gold and jewels he could ever want, but never able to leave. When the seas were calm and the tide was low, the foolish boy could peer out and catch a glimpse of his hometown that he would never walk in again.

Words by Graeme Johncock

To read this online click here

On This Day in 1832: Walter Scott Dies at Abbotsford

On 21 September 1832, Walter Scott, Scotland’s most celebrated author, died at his beloved home of Abbotsford on the banks of the River Tweed. By the time of his death, Scott had become one of the most famous writers in Europe, known for works such as Waverley, Rob Roy, and Ivanhoe, which helped to define how Scotland was seen both at home and abroad.

Scott had suffered a series of strokes in his later years and returned to Abbotsford after seeking treatment abroad. Surrounded by family, he passed away in the library he had filled with books and curiosities. His funeral in Edinburgh drew vast crowds, a sign of the profound mark he left on literature and national identity. Abbotsford remains open today, a place where visitors can step into the rooms where Scotland’s great storyteller lived and died.

A Day On The Isle of Harris

When most people think of the Isle of Harris, they conjure up images of beautiful sandy coastlines with mountains looming in the distance. I won’t deny you can find some of the best beaches in Scotland here, but there’s also a lot more to Harris than that. This is an island with a very long history and as a lover of stories, as well as outdoor spaces, Harris is somewhere I never get tired of visiting.

Begin in Tarbert

Tarbert is the main settlement on the Isle of Harris, where most visitors arrive by ferry and that goes a small way to explaining the name. Tarbert literally means “drag boat” and centuries ago, sailors would rather drag their vessels across this narrow point than sail all the way around the island! It’s somewhere most people will begin a day around Harris and if you’re looking for a morning coffee then look no further than the Loomshed Deli!

Nisabost Beach & MacLeod’s Stone
20 minute drive

Driving through the rugged landscape of Harris is an attraction in itself, almost like you’re on another planet. Eventually, the rock gives way to the sea and you’ll arrive at a parking spot beside Nisabost Beach. Keep your eyes open for cows as you walk along the sand, but the real highlight comes after a short hike.

On a grassy hill above the beach, keeping watch across the waves crashing below, stands MacLeod’s Stone. Raised a few thousand years ago, it far predates Clan MacLeod and nobody knows for sure where it gets the name. As well as a mystery to ponder, it’s a wonder to marvel at, covered in moss and soaring around 3 metres high!

St Clement’s Church, Rodel
20 minute drive 

At almost the southern tip of Harris lies one of my favourite places on the island, but somehow one of the least appreciated – St Clement’s Church at Rodel. Built in the early 1500s by Alasdair Crotach MacLeod, the 8th Clan Chief, it’s known as the best piece of medieval architecture in the Outer Hebrides.

Step inside and soak up the atmosphere, admiring Alasdair’s carved effigy, kitted out in full armour, lying in his elaborate tomb. Two other MacLeod chiefs were buried in this special spot, but the church was soon abandoned after the religious Reformation in the mid-16th century. It’s a special spot where you can really feel the history

Granny Annie’s
2 minute drive 

On your way back north, make sure to stop in at Granny Annie’s, a small shop tacked onto the side of a house. It’s easily missed but well worth the visit, full of tweed, gifts, curios and vintage goods. Just make sure to keep kids away from the corner full of rude words and sweary slogans...

Lunch at Talla na Mara
20 minute drive

Talla na Mara, meaning Hall of the Sea, is easily my favourite place to eat in Harris. It’s a community café serving up soup, sandwiches and great coffee. The views out to sea are spectacular and it makes a good shelter when the weather isn’t too friendly. Next door, you’ll find a few studios for local creatives, with incredible art for sale to make the perfect memento.

Luskentyre Beach
20 minute drive

Harris might not just be about beaches, but you’d be missing out if you didn’t take the time to enjoy some of the sandy coastline. Luskentyre is probably the most famous on the island and once you’ve walked along the short track from the car park, you can see why. The white sand seems to stretch away forever while in the distance loom the hills of Harris across the waves. No matter what the weather is like, calm and sunny or wild and stormy, it’s a truly incredible location. There are spectacular views from the top of the low hill behind the beach, but be careful not to damage the sensitive machair grassland.

Harris Tweed Shop in Tarbert
20 minute drive

Back in Tarbert, take the time to visit the Harris Tweed shops – one sells lengths of the fabric while the other has products made from it. Harris Tweed is an icon of the entire Outer Hebrides and an important part of the local economy. By law, it has to be made from virgin wool in an islander’s home under their own power. If you see the Orb mark then you know it’s real Harris Tweed and that you’re getting something made by a true craftsperson.

Isle of Harris Distillery
Very short walk

There’s no better way to end the day than with a dram and no better place to do that than at the Isle of Harris Distillery. Whether you’re a fan of Harris Gin or one of their Hearach whiskies, they’re more than happy to help you out. If you’re lucky, the distillery might even be having one of their social ceilidhs to finish your trip around Harris in truly spectacular style!

You can read more of Graeme Johncock’s stories and itineraries over on our site — including his latest travel guides, historical insights, and curious tales from across Scotland.

Cottonrake Café, Glasgow

Cottonrake Café on Great Western Road in Glasgow’s West end builds on the success of its well-loved bakery, offering a larger space where breakfast, brunch, and coffee take centre stage. The menu is carefully considered, with a focus on high-quality ingredients and well-executed dishes that keep regulars coming back. Turkish eggs are a standout, with their rich, spiced yoghurt base, while eggs Benedict, sourdough toast with bacon, and a Scandinavian-inspired rye plate provide a mix of comforting and lighter options. The café's pastries, carried over from the original bakery, remain a highlight, with almond croissants and cakes often in high demand.

For more info visit https://www.cottonrake.com/

Read the Full Back Catalogue of Hidden Scotland Magazine Online

With a Hidden Scotland Membership, you can now read the full back catalogue of Hidden Scotland Magazine online. From Issue One to the latest release, every edition is available in full. That means hundreds of pages of in-depth travel features, historical deep-dives, local interviews, and carefully curated recommendations—ready to explore at your own pace.

Each issue is designed to immerse you in a different part of Scotland. You’ll find long reads on remote islands, insider tips from local makers, hidden walking routes, and the kind of insight that comes from real connection to place. Whether you’re planning your next trip or just dreaming from home, the full collection is now just a click away.

Members get unlimited access to all digital editions, plus exclusive travel guides, themed itineraries, and new content each week.

Join today to unlock it all.

Dun Aliunn

On an elevated site overlooking the vibrant market town of Aberfeldy and the River Tay, Dun Aluinn is cradled by 5.5 acres of private grounds with a sweeping terrace offering stunning views down the Tay Valley to one of Scotland’s most famous mountains, Schiehallion. Those panoramic views can also be enjoyed from the wood-fired, cedar hot tub, hidden away in the woods beside the house.

For more information visit https://www.dunaluinn.com/

Quiz Answers

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