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This week’s email moves between island exploration, history, and a few quieter corners worth noting. Graeme spends a full day on Iona, going beyond the abbey to uncover more of the island, while we take a closer look at Duntulm Castle on Skye and the stories that still linger around its ruins.

Issue 12 is now live and available to pre-order, with new features spanning the Borders, Rum, Oban, and Inverness, alongside conversations, recipes, and places to stay. All pre-orders come with a Brodie Castle bookmark and an A5 print of the cover image, available for a limited time.

We’ve also included a peaceful accommodation pick at the Dell of Abernethy, set within the Cairngorms.

Enjoy the quiz, and good luck.

What’s in this week’s email.

The latest issue of Hidden Scotland magazine is now live and ready to pre-order.

Inside this issue you’ll travel from the quiet bays of the Scottish Borders to the Isle of Rum, meet wildlife filmmaker Gordon Buchanan, discover Scotland’s best farm shops, explore beautiful boutique hotels, and dip into some of the country’s open-air lidos.

You’ll also find Lorna Freytag’s guide to Oban, a recipe from Edinburgh’s Lannan Bakery, beachcombing with Laurie Goodlad, and a detailed guide to Inverness and the surrounding area.

All pre-orders include:

→ A 'Brodie Castle' bookmark
→ A5 print of the front cover image

Order soon, as the A5 print and bookmark are available for a limited time only.

What’s inside

We visit the quiet bays of the Borders, travel to the green contours of the Isle of Rum, meet experts in ceramics and wildlife film-making - Gordon Buchanan fans you’re in for a treat - and turn deserved attention to everything from modern lifestyle stores to medieval castles.

A common theme in the issue is a sense of character and purpose. We round up some of the country’s best farm shops, all of which reconnect people with local produce; visit a truly stylish selection of independent boutique hotels; and take a bracing dip in some of Scotland’s most notable open-air lidos (this is, after all, the Spring/ Summer issue).

There’s much more to enjoy, too. Artist Lorna Freytag gives excellent advice on how best to spend time in and around Oban, Darcie Maher of Edinburgh’s Lannan Bakery shares a recipe for spelt jammies, while writer Laurie Goodlad rambles the shorelines to highlight the many pleasures of beachcombing.

We take a detailed look at Inverness and the surrounding area, spotlighting what to see, where to eat and stay, and how to make the most of a trip to one of Scotland’s most varied regions.

All pre-orders will come with a free A5 print of our front cover image and a Brodie Castle bookmark. A note to all our subscribers, this is also included with your magazine.

To secure your pre-order click the link below.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

The Isle of Iona is an incredible wee place, there’s nowhere else like it in Scotland! Most people who make the long pilgrimage to this holy island only spend a couple of hours there, seeing little more than the abbey. However, there’s so much more to Iona and if you have the time, it deserves an entire day of exploring

Start At Fionnphort

Most journeys to Iona begin at Fionnphort on Mull, where the ferry leaves from and it’s worth taking a moment to appreciate the views across the Sound. It’s foot passengers only on the boat, taking around 10 minutes which flies by as you gaze at the picture-perfect abbey!

Iona Nunnery
2 minute walk

It’s natural to want to make a beeline for the abbey, but to get there you have to pass another curated pile of ruins. This is Iona Nunnery, built in the early 13th century with Beatrice, daughter of the great Gaelic warlord Somerled, appointed as the first prioress. It would have been a quiet life of prayer and contemplation for the nuns here, mostly illegitimate daughters or widowed wives of nobility. If any female pilgrims travelled to Iona, they would have found shelter in these walls!

Iona Abbey
5 minute walk

Continuing along the path brings you to the star of the show - Iona Abbey, the spiritual heart of the island. It was here in 563AD that St Columba founded a monastery that would help spread Christianity throughout northern Scotland. The building we have today dates from around the year 1200, built by Ranald, Beatrice’s brother! Restored from ruin in the early 1900s, as well as being a tourist attraction, it doubles as a working church and attending a service here is one of my most special Scottish experiences! While you could spend a long time wandering the abbey buildings and admiring the enormous stone crosses, don’t miss the museum round the back. It’s small but packed with incredible artefacts and carved effigies of Highland warriors.

Reilig Odhrain

Right outside the abbey, the Reilig Odhrain is probably the most important graveyard anywhere in Scotland. This is where some of the most important Kings of Scots lay buried, like Macbeth and Kenneth MacAlpine, along with chiefs of clans like the MacDonalds, MacLeods and MacLeans.

Iona Community Shop
2 minute walk

Not far from the abbey sits the Iona Community Shop. The staff are always welcoming and you can find out more about how the group operates as well as pick up some gifts or supplies - the book collection is particularly impressive. Even when the shop isn’t open, this is where you’ll find toilets since they’re not available in the abbey.

Traigh Bhan Nam Monach
25 minute walk

Now it’s time to stretch your legs, heading almost to the far north point of Iona, crossing a field to Traigh Bhan Nam Monach, otherwise known as the White Strand of the Monks! It’s one of my favourite beaches anywhere in Scotland, with unbelievably white sand stretching into the turquoise water.

Grab Lunch At Columba's Larder
25 minute walk

There are a few good spots for lunch on Iona, such as Ailidh Pizza, but I like to pop into the St Columba Larder for a takeaway. The sandwiches are great (smoked trout especially) along with a cup of warming soup!

Creative Shops of Iona
2 minute walk

You can find a great cluster of small, creative shops on Iona to pickup some authentic souvenirs to remember your trip. Oran Crafts exclusively sells items made on the island by residents and Aosdana creates incredible jewellery. My favourite is the Iona Craft Shop, both for the great shop and because they do incredible coffee!

Iona Heritage Centre
2 minute walk

Although easily missed, make sure to pop into the Iona Heritage Centre to find out the real history of the island. The abbey was abandoned after the reformation in the 16th century, but life continued on the island and the heritage centre tells fascinating stories of those who have called Iona home for centuries.

Bay At The Back Of The Ocean
30 minute walk

Not many visitors to Iona take the time to walk to the west or south of the island, making it a great way to escape any crowds. At the end of the tarmac road, you cross a small golf course to reach the Bay at the Back of the Ocean. The waves can be wild here, but as you stare out to sea there’s no land between you and Newfoundland!

St Columba's Bay
15 minute walk

Over a small hill, skirting a tiny loch, suddenly St Columba’s Bay comes into sight. It’s a stunning little spot, where the Irish saint is said to have first landed on Iona. The beach is covered in small pebbles and if you look closely, you might find some green Iona marble. It’s a calm, quiet, spiritual place that many find almost overwhelming. I could sit there for hours, but it’s important to make sure there’s plenty of time to get back to catch the last ferry home!

Written by Graeme Johncock To check out more of Graeme’s Scottish Itineraries, click here.

It’s a figure that catches people off guard, even those familiar with the country. Scotland’s terrain was carved by glaciers, leaving behind thousands of basins that later filled with water. Today, lochs appear across the mainland and islands, from vast stretches like Loch Lomond to small, easily missed pockets in remote glens.

Loch Ness holds the greatest volume of freshwater in the UK, its depth giving it a very different presence. The word “loch” comes from Gaelic and covers both freshwater and sea inlets, which helps explain the scale of the total.

Travel anywhere in Scotland and they become a constant feature, appearing around bends in the road or sitting quietly in the distance, part of how the land is understood and experienced.

Perched on a cliff near Skye’s most northerly point, Duntulm Castle has a fascinating reputation. Not just as a formidable fortress with a very long history, but as a home to more than its fair share of ghosts.

Long before the medieval castle, an Iron Age broch took advantage of this strategic position. For hundreds of years, while Skye was firmly under Viking influence, those Norsemen utilised the old stone towers themselves. Eventually, Duntulm Castle began to take a more recognisable shape after the powerful Clan MacLeod moved in.

They might have built the castle we see today, but they weren’t the only family to live there. Epitomising the long-running conflict that dominates the island’s history, Duntulm Castle was passed unwillingly to the MacLeod’s arch-nemesis, Clan MacDonald.

By 1730 even the MacDonalds had abandoned this windswept stronghold and it was left to slowly tumble into the sea. It may well have been too old-fashioned or uncomfortable for them now that they weren’t under constant threat of attack. However, if the stories are to be believed, then the real reason may have been that Duntulm Castle was overrun with restless spirits.

One common, ghostly visitor to the ruins is the treacherous Hugh MacDonald, a man who was determined that he should lead the MacDonalds of Sleat. His attempt to seize control and become clan chief failed and instead the traitor was imprisoned in the dungeons of Duntulm. To ensure an agonising death, Hugh was given nothing but salted beef to eat, without a drop of water to wash it down. The rasping groans of his thirsty spirit can still be heard around the clifftop.

Joining Hugh is Margaret MacLeod, seen amongst the ruins of Duntulm weeping from her single eye. Her mistreatment at the hands of her husband, a MacDonald chief, was the match that lit the fuse of the ferocious War of the One-Eyed Woman.

Donald Gorm the 8th MacDonald Chief has a less tragic story even though he’s known as a much more aggressive ghost. Donald enjoyed nothing more than the clash of battle and his life was defined by the many conflicts he both won and lost. When he couldn’t find any MacLeods to pick on, he liked to start fights with his own clansmen just for fun. He still stomps around Duntulm Castle in a loud, drunken manner trying to find one last brawl.

The final ghost has the most upsetting story of them all. While the high cliffs of Duntulm are perfect for defence, they also made it a very dangerous place to live. A careless nursemaid once dropped the baby of a MacDonald chief from one of the window ledges. It was a tragic accident, but that didn’t stop the nurse from being killed as a punishment. Her ghost haunts the castle ruins and the cliffs below, desperately searching for the child.

With walls filled with this much tragedy and so many restless spirits roaming the halls, it’s no wonder that Duntulm Castle didn’t have enough room for the living anymore.

This week's accommodation recommendation…

The first signs of spring at Dell of Abernethy

Tucked within three acres of mature grounds, where owners Polly and Ross encourage guests to enjoy them as their own.

Mornings here begin with birdsong echoing through the trees and cool forest air, while evenings end beside a crackling fire. A peaceful base for exploring this corner of the Cairngorms National Park.

The Dell Grocer sits beside the houses and offers some of Polly and Ross’s favourite local produce, along with Scottish-made gifts. It’s open to guests and the wider community.

The garden has its own small adventures waiting, with an adult-sized zip line, slackline, trampoline and a den ideal for little explorers. A network of forest paths surrounds the area too, perfect for walking and mountain biking, and in winter, cross-country skiing.

There’s plenty to explore nearby too. Loch Garten, known for its wildlife and woodland walks, sits around ten minutes away.

There is currently an offer on at the moment of 15% off stays before the 27th March. Use DellCollective on their website to redeem.

Find out more

Hidden Scotland is delivered twice a year, arriving with the first look at each new issue before it reaches the public. Subscribers receive every magazine hand wrapped in tissue, with a bookmark and an A5 print of the cover image included as a small extra. Each edition is a carefully curated guide to Scotland’s makers, places to stay, evocative journeys, and the quieter corners that are easy to miss.

Subscriptions are billed just before dispatch in April and October, making it a simple way to keep Scotland’s best stories arriving straight to your door.

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