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This week’s email begins with an important reminder for anyone sending gifts overseas, as the final posting date for international delivery arrives on 24 November. From there, we head north to Shetland for Laurie Goodlad’s in-depth guide to Up Helly Aa, a winter festival unlike anything else in Scotland. Laurie takes you through the history, the procession, the long night of celebrations and the practical details that help you make the most of a visit.

You’ll find new arrivals in the shop, including the return of the Orange Spice Candle Tin from Cairn Candles, a Christmas favourite, along with a closer look at Park Cottage on Alvie Estate, a Highland retreat surrounded by the drama of the Cairngorms. Graeme Johncock continues the journey with a full day along the Kintyre coastline, from the ruins of Tarbert Castle to Skipness, Carradale, Saddell Bay and Campbeltown.

As always, there’s this week’s quiz, a few things we think you’ll enjoy and details on the Christmas Gift Box before the deadline approaches.

Last Chance to Order for International Delivery

Our last posting date for international Christmas orders is approaching, with 24 November as the final day to guarantee delivery in time for the holidays. If you’re sending Hidden Scotland gifts overseas, now is the moment to order.

Wrapped copies of Issue 11, our Christmas Gift Box, the 2026 calendar and products from Scottish makers are all available while stock lasts.

Each wrapped magazine includes a festive tag and an art card, and gift boxes are prepared with care and detail. Place your order soon to make sure it reaches friends and family abroad before Christmas.

Use code CHRISTMAS for 10% off today only.

Your Essential Guide to Up Helly Aa

If you’re looking to experience a wild northern winter, punctuated with a dash of culture, fire and Viking tradition, then Up Helly Aa is an unmissable experience in Shetland’s cultural calendar. Laurie Goodlad explains the best way to make the most of Shetland’s festival of fire.

With no more than six hours of daylight throughout January, Shetland is a land of winter darkness. It’s an island hammered by Atlantic storms, fierce winds and biting cold, but within this, Up Helly Aa is the event longanticipated throughout the year which lights up the night sky and warms the hearts of thousands of participants and onlookers every year.

Between January and March, the islands celebrate the festival of Up Helly Aa, with 12 Fire Festival and Up Helly Aa celebrations featuring fiery processions, Viking dress and all-night parties following the burning of a Viking longship. Of these, the largest and most well-known is the Lerwick Up Helly Aa, which takes place on the last Tuesday of January.

Up Helly Aa’s roots can be found in the 19th-century tradition of ‘tar-barrelling’, a practice, eventually outlawed, which saw the town’s young men rolling burning barrels of tar through the narrow streets of Lerwick throughout the 24-day festival of Yule.

Up Helly Aa is not an ancient festival from Viking and Norse times but a celebration with its roots firmly embedded in Victorian Shetland, and like any proper Victorian soiree, theatrical pomp and ceremony were, and still do, flow unbridled.

Lerwick Up Helly Aa’s festivities last for 24 hours, attracting thousands of visitors each year from across the globe. A torchlit procession, led by the Guizer Jarl (chief Viking), weaves its way around the streets of Lerwick with over 1,000 people carrying burning torches. Following the parade, the guizers or squads (as participants are known) throw their burning torches into a replica Viking longship and sing the Norseman’s Home. The atmosphere during the procession is electric as street lights are extinguished, and spellbound spectators throng the streets, jostling for the best view. As the town glows under the light of the burning torches, the smell of paraffin and smoke permeates everything, as the rousing cheers echo around the buildings into the cold night sky.

After the ceremonial burning, a night of celebration commences as around a dozen public halls open their doors to welcome the squads (or groups) of guizers who perform a sketch or dance for the crowds. These are private, ticketed parties, and those attending must get an invite from one of the venue’s hosts or hostesses who organise the after-party. With impressive spreads of soup, sandwiches and home bakes, everyone remains wellfuelled, ensuring they can dance right into the next day.

During these 24 hours, Lerwick’s rule is handed over by the police to the Guizer Jarl, and the Town Hall proudly flies the Raven Banner flag

Top tips for enjoying Lerwick Up Helly Aa 

Book ahead. Up Helly Aa is a popular event, with accommodation booking up sometimes years in advance and travel to the islands limited. You can get to Shetland by overnight ferry from Aberdeen or fly from most Scottish airports with Loganair. Bring warm clothing and waterproofs as the procession is often cold, wet and windy – but the effort to watch it is well worth it! Arrive early to the procession to ensure that you get a good viewing point. Attend the Junior procession for better views with less people. The day after Up Helly Aa is a public holiday so you may want to stock up on food supplies beforehand. Check what else is on around Up Helly Aa, including pop-up markets and musical concerts. 

What to expect on the day 

Lerwick takes on a whole new character on Up Helly Aa day, and with a real festival feel buzzing around the town, the atmosphere is electric. The Jarl Squad Timetable (available online at www.uphellyaa.org) provides all the key timings for the event. Check this before you attend so that you can make the most of the day and know where to see them and when. Check out the Up Helly Aa Bill at the Market Cross for a tongue-in-cheek, satirical look at events in the community over the past year. The Bill is available from 6 am on Tuesday until 5 pm.

Timings 

0900 
Muster at the Lerwick Legion and follow the Jarl Squad towards the Esplanade in the centre of town with the galley. The galley remains here, beside the Bressay Ferry Terminal, until 6 pm. 

1500 
Jarl Squad visit Shetland Museum & Archives. Book a ticket online at www.shetlandmuseumandarchives.org.uk. 

1730 
Attend the Junior Procession before the main parade. Fewer people turn out for this, so you’re assured a good view of proceedings and plenty of photo opportunities. 

1930 
Main procession, torchbearers begin at Hillhead

After-party tickets: Hall tickets/invites are generally reserved for locals; however, they can sometimes be sourced. If you are looking for tickets for the halls, contact the Tourist Office for information, or keep an eye on the local press as tickets become available throughout the day. You DO NOT need a ticket/invite to attend the procession, only the after-parties.

words - Laurie Goodlad // photography - David Gifford

To read the full article online click here

Back in Stock! Orange Spice Candle Tin

Introducing the Orange Spice Candle Tin by Cairn Candle Co, a captivating fragrance that brings warmth and zest to any room, no matter the season. Originally a festive favourite, its blend of spiced notes and fresh nectarine has become a year-round staple. The cosy, uplifting scent combines cinnamon, nutmeg, and clove with a burst of bright orange to create a comforting and joyful atmosphere.

Use code CHRISTMAS for 10% off today only.

Park Cottage, Cairngorms

Set on Alvie Estate near Aviemore, Park Cottage is a beautifully restored Highland retreat for up to six guests. Traditional from the outside yet stylish within, it combines wood-burning comfort, mountain views, and a garden hot tub with easy access to walks, wildlife, and the natural drama of the Cairngorms.

Find out more here.

Travelling the Kintyre Coastline

If you enjoy getting off the beaten track in Scotland, the Kintyre Peninsula is definitely for you. This part of Argyll deserves a lot more attention, but because it takes a little more time to get to, it took me until last year before even I visited! I was blown away by how much Kintyre had to offer in just a single day’s journey.

Tarbert Castle

Begin at the very top of the peninsula in Tarbert, a harbour town protected by a prominent, but sadly ruined, royal castle. Only a small remnant remains of what was once an enormous fortress, guarding not just passage up Loch Fyne, but also across land.

The name Tarbert literally means “Drag Boat” and it’s where sailors could drag their vessels across a narrow strip of land to save travelling all the way round Kintyre! The castle has a long history, but most people climb up here just for the view. Be aware that there are usually sheep roaming, so keep dogs on leads.

Skipness Castle
30 minute drive

First built by the powerful MacSweens in the early 1200s, Skipness Castle is a much more impressive sight! The walls are just a stone’s throw from the water and along with Lochranza Castle on Arran, they guard passage through the Kilbrannan Sound.

It’s grown over the centuries, falling first into the hands of the MacDonalds and later the Campbells and even in its ruined state, it’s remarkably intact. Through the summer months, you’ll be able to climb right up onto the tower for spectacular views of Arran!

Skipness Chapel

A short stroll along a grass path brings you to Skipness Chapel, moved here away from the castle by the MacDonalds. It’s much larger than the average church from this time, showing just how important the castle once was and you’ll find ornately carved graveslabs of important residents from the past. As you walk back from the chapel towards the car park, make sure to pop into either the smokehouse or seafood cabin to sample some local delicacies!

Take A Walk At Carradale
40 minute drive

As you head south, the views of the Arran mountains are stunning, but keep your eyes on the narrow winding road! Once you arrive in Carradale, it’s time to stretch your legs and you’ve plenty of choice. You could wander the small village, down to the harbour and beach or head into the trees of Crow Wood. If you’re feeling really energetic, you could head to the very top of Cnoc nan Gabhar – Deer Hill and back down in around two hours.

Beinn an Tuirc Distillery
15 minute drive

You’ve earned a drink after all of that and thankfully, Beinn an Tuirc Distillery isn’t far away. This is where Scotland’s “other” national spirit is made – delicious gin! This is a small, family run operation, powered by hydroelectricity so not only is your tipple tasty, but it’s sustainable too!

You can book onto a guided tour of the distillery, get in depth with the gin school or just enjoy a taste in the café. This is also a great spot to enjoy lunch with soup and a sandwich!

Saddell Abbey
10 minute drive

In a little hollow at the meeting of roads, the 12th century Sadell Abbey seems very removed from the world. Founded by the famous warlord Somerled, who carved himself out a kingdom from parts of Scotland under Norse control, it shows he was as pious as he was violent. There’s not a lot left to see of the abbey building, but the collection of carved gravestones protected in a shelter are amongst the best in Scotland. To me, these are an incredibly evocative link to the past, a clear sign of the warrior culture in the West Highlands and they’re enough to get any imagination running wild!

Saddell Bay & Castle
10 minute walk

A short walk away leads you towards Saddell Castle, once home to the Bishop of Argyll and actually built using stone from the abbey ruins. Today, it’s a holiday home, but you can walk past it straight onto the sweeping sand of Saddell Bay. You might recognise it from the famous “Mull of Kintyre” music video, but I can’t promise a pipe band will appear on the beach behind you…

Explore Campbeltown
15 minute drive

Known as the Victorian Whisky Capital of the World or sometimes “Whiskyopolis”, Campbeltown is one of the most underrated places in Scotland. It might not be home to dozens of distilleries anymore, but it’s packed full of character and history. Walk past the 650-year-old town cross to explore the streets and independent shops like Coorie Doon or Kintyre Larder.

Glen Scotia Distillery

It wouldn’t feel right to visit Campbeltown and not enjoy a dram, it is what made the town famous after all! My favourite is undoubtedly Glen Scotia, a place that truly represents the spirit of the town. Even if you’re not in time for a tour, it’s worth stopping into the shop to try a sample and pick up a bottle. It’s the perfect way to reward yourself after an epic day exploring the Kintyre coast!

To read online and view more of Graeme’s Stories and itineraries click here.

Buy gift wrapped issue 11 today

This year’s gift wrapping returns for Hidden Scotland Magazine Issue 11, featuring paper designed by Scottish illustrator Joy Nevada, a festive tag option, and an A5 art card of our much loved squirrel cover image by photographer Bret Charman.

Each wrapped magazine comes with a festive gift tag, either left blank for your own message to deliver by hand or completed with a handwritten note from us using the message you provide.

A Christmas sticker on the tag lets the recipient know it’s not to be opened until 25th December.

Quiz Answers

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