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We’re excited to bring you another edition of Hidden Scotland Weekly. As always, we hope you enjoy reading and find inspiration for your next adventure.

We’ve made some big updates to the Hidden Scotland website recently and are working on even more new features — now’s a great time to have a look around. You can explore the latest articles, itineraries, and travel ideas at hiddenscotland.com.

One of the latest additions is our new daily quiz — a brand new set of questions goes live every night at midnight to test your knowledge of Scotland’s history, places, and folklore. Give it a go at hiddenscotland.com/quiz.

We’ve also had a full restock of books in the Hidden Scotland Shop. You can browse the full selection here — but be quick, they tend to go fast.

As a thank you for being on this email list, you can get 10% off today with the code SUNDAY10

Enjoy this week’s edition, and have a fantastic Sunday!

Were Scotland’s Standing Stones the First Way of Measuring Time?

On Arran’s west coast, in a quiet valley shaped by wind and time, the standing stones of Machrie Moor remain fixed in place — but not in meaning. They draw you in. Not with answers, but with questions. Were they built to hold memory, mark ritual — or measure the returning light?

I’ve stood at Machrie Moor in drizzle and in sun, in silence and in the company of dogwalkers and distant cows, and still the stones offer no certainty. Just questions. Six circles scattered across moorland, each one slightly different. Some weathered down to stumps, others still upright, holding the skyline. What they were built for is unknown, but I keep returning to the idea that maybe — just maybe — they helped measure time.

There’s a particular stone in the group known as Machrie Moor 2 that gets mentioned a lot. At sunset on the summer solstice, its shadow is said to align with another megalith. Not precisely enough for a stopwatch, but enough to suggest intent. In the Neolithic and early Bronze Age, long before mechanical clocks or written calendars, this kind of shadow would have been meaningful. A line across the grass at the longest day of the year.

Whether the builders of Machrie Moor were sky-watchers or simply laying out sacred space is still debated. The site lies in a shallow bowl between low hills, with views towards the sea. Excavations have uncovered timber structures beneath some of the circles — wooden posts that were later replaced by stone. Over time, the layout evolved. What stayed constant, it seems, was the orientation.

Historic Environment Scotland notes that several of the stones appear to be aligned with notable landscape features, including the prominent peaks of Beinn Tarsuinn and Cnoc na Dail. And some archaeologists, including Professor Alexander Thom, have long suggested that ancient stone circles in Britain were used as astronomical observatories. His work is not universally accepted — but it opened the door for more serious consideration of these alignments.

What intrigues me is the scale of care involved. The stones weren’t dumped here. They were hauled from different parts of the island — some granite, some sandstone — and positioned in relation to one another. That suggests planning, coordination, perhaps even a shared purpose across generations. If not to track time, then to mark something just as steady.

It’s easy to romanticise. But it’s also worth asking what these structures would have meant to those who built them. On Arran, the winter can be long and low-lit. Watching the sun begin to return in late December wouldn’t have been a poetic moment. It would have been practical — a sign to plan, plant, or gather. Could the stones have helped? Could they have marked turning points in the year?

We know that in Orkney, at Maeshowe, the tomb’s entrance is aligned so that the setting sun at winter solstice illuminates the inner chamber. At Callanish on Lewis, the main avenue points to where the moon sets during its most extreme southern cycle, which only happens every 18.6 years. These sites weren’t random. They were rooted in observation.

So when you walk among the stones at Machrie Moor and hear people say, “No one really knows what they’re for,” that’s true — but it’s not the end of the story. It’s the beginning. What we do know is that patterns of light, shadow, and orientation seem to repeat at sacred sites across Scotland. Whether the purpose was ceremonial, agricultural, or both, these builders had their eyes on the sky.

I don’t think the people who built these circles would have called them calendars. They probably didn’t even think of time the way we do. But they may have marked days that mattered: solstices, harvests, migrations. Time felt in the body, not the wrist.

Machrie Moor isn’t the only place to show signs of this kind of intent. There are cup-and-ring marks across Argyll and Kilmartin Glen, which some believe were placed to correspond with lunar phases or seasonal change. In Shetland and Caithness, stones and chambered cairns line up with sunrise points. It's not universal, but it's frequent enough to be noticed.

What makes Machrie stand out is how accessible it feels. You reach it via a simple track through farmland, the stones revealed all at once, as if rising out of the moor. There’s no visitor centre, no ropes, no explanatory panels. Just sheep, wind, and these slow silhouettes holding their line.

And maybe that’s part of the appeal. The stones don’t offer answers — they hold a question steady. One that points, year after year, to something larger than us, and older.

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This is just one of many stories we’re publishing each week — exploring ancient places, hidden histories, and the people who shape Scotland today.

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Words by Jack Cairney.
Photography Simon Hird.

A Day On The Isle of Barra - An Itinerary

Barra might be small, but it makes a lasting impression. From castles in the bay to hilltop views, gin tastings and a runway on the sand, this island packs a lot into a single day. We’ve put together a detailed itinerary to help you explore it all at a relaxed pace—whether you’re planning your first visit or returning for more. To access the full itinerary, along with our complete library of handpicked Scottish itineraries, become a Hidden Scotland member today. New ones are added every week.

Scotland has over 90 permanently inhabited islands to explore, but most people will only ever see Skye, Mull, Harris or Lewis. One of my favourite hidden gems is somewhere a little quieter, at the very south of the Outer Hebrides – the Isle of Barra. I’ve travelled there both by plane and by ferry, but no matter how you arrive, this is how I would spend a day there.

Kisimul Castle

An icon of the Isle of Barra stands proudly on a rock in the middle of the aptly named Castlebay – Kisimul Castle. Once home to Clan MacNeil, they had a particularly impressive chief in the later 1500s known as Ruari the Turbulent.

He pillaged so many passing ships that Kisimul’s cellar was full of the finest wine and wall’s decorated in expensive silks! Unfortunately, due to conservation work, the castle is closed to visitors at the moment.

During the tourist season, Historic Scotland do run free boat trips which should be booked in advance, however, even the view from the village is incredible!

Isle of Barra Gin Distillery 
3 minute drive or 15 minute walk

While Scotland might be famous for whisky, if you’re on the Isle of Barra then I highly recommend sampling their gin! While the distillery doesn’t offer tours, there is an onsite shop that allows you to try some samples and pick up a bottle to take home. As well as being delicious, you can feel good that profits go back into supporting the local community!

Cille Bharra
25 minute drive 

Head to the very north of the island and explore the unassuming church of Cille Bharra, set in beautiful surroundings. Most of the 12th century buildings are in ruins, but this has most likely been a religious site since the 600s! It’s dedicated to St Barr, the early preacher who gives the island of Barra its name. The only part that still has a roof is the 16th century North Chapel, used as a mausoleum for MacNeils and usually left unlocked for visitors. Inside, as well as spectacularly carved graveslabs, is the Kilbar Stone.

With a Christian cross on one side, there are Norse runes on the reverse – the perfect example of the Outer Hebrides Viking past!

Lunch At The Airport
5 minute drive

The airport might seem like a strange place for a lunch recommendation, but trust me that the food here is absolutely outstanding. As well as soups and sandwiches, we enjoyed specials like smoked mackerel, local lamb stew and hand-dived scallops. As an added bonus, if timed right then you can watch the tiny planes landing on the world’s only commercial beach runway!

Climb Heaval
15 minute drive

To work off all of that lunch, take a hike up Heaval, the highest point of Barra. If you park at the foot of the hill, then it’s a short but steep hike of less than an hour to the summit, but you can also walk in from Castlebay, making the round trip closer to 3 hours. On a clear day, the views go on for miles around the surrounding lower islands. As an extra incentive, there’s a beautiful statue of the Virgin and Child high up the slopes known locally as Our Lady of the Seas.

Barra Heritage Centre 
1 minute drive

Learn all about the history and culture of Barra and what life was once like on the island with a visit to the Heritage Centre. There are artefacts, photographs and videos to explore as well as a reconstruction of what life in a traditional Blackhouse would have been like.

Head To Vatersay Beaches
15 minute drive

Now linked to Barra by a causeway, there’s no better way to end the day than a visit to the pristine twin beaches of the Isle of Vatersay. The main road travels between Bàgh Siar (West Bay), and Bàgh Bhatarsaigh (Vatersay Bay) and while both are beautiful, my personal favourite is the eastern beach. Cross over the fine grassy machair, through a dilapidated gate and walk out where white sand meets turquoise water. It looks like paradise, although the water isn’t quite as warm as the Caribbean! It’s still a popular place for a swim or even a snooze, but be aware that there are over cattle grazing around the beach so just be careful where you step!

The full itinerary is available exclusively to Hidden Scotland members. Join today to unlock this and dozens of carefully curated routes across Scotland — with new additions every week.

Around Scotland with Graeme Johncock

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

June has been a wild whirlwind of a month for me, not just because of the usual travelling around Scotland, but also because I just got married! I’m writing this a few days before the big day (so hopefully haven’t jinxed anything), but as you read these words on Sunday, I’ll have tied the knot yesterday!

In fact, tying the knot comes from a Scottish tradition that we’ve included in our own marriage ceremony – handfasting. Two pieces of tartan are wrapped around the couple’s hands before being tied into a knot and pulled tight, joining them together as one.

Tradition states that a handfasting ceremony could take place in lieu of a full wedding, binding them together for a year and a day as a trial period. If they weren’t happy by the time that was up, they would go their separate ways.

The only story I know that includes handfasting was between the Chief of the MacDonalds and Margaret, the sister of the MacLeod Chief. Unfortunately, before that year was up, Margaret had lost an eye and the MacDonald Chief didn’t want to marry her anymore.

To add literal insult to injury, he sent her home to her brother on a one-eyed horse, led by a one-eyed man, accompanied by a one-eyed dog. That was how the War of the One-Eyed Woman began. Hopefully, my marriage is going to be a wee bit more successful than that...

I’ve still managed to get a few trips around Scotland in alongside the wedding planning. The pick of those was out to Mid-Argyll. It’s a region that doesn’t get nearly enough attention in my opinion. Most visitors that reach Oban will turn to the north and head up to Glencoe, but there’s a lot to see if you travel south.

This isn’t the place for mountains, but it’s a rugged land pierced with sea lochs, forming long peninsulas to explore. Each one has its own secrets to share, from tiny, ruined chapels like Keills or Kilmory Knap to incredible castles like Sween and Carnasserie. Not to mention the amazing Neolithic landscape of Kilmartin Glen, packed with standing stones and ancient cairns.

I had Molly the Labrador along for the ride, and while she can’t manage any Munros at 14 years old, there were plenty of low-level walks to keep her happy. One of my favourites goes through the woods beside Loch Coille Bharr, coming out to the cleared township of Kilmory Oib.

This was a place of laughter, life and stories for centuries until it was cleared to make way for sheep in the mid-1800s. Those flocks have all disappeared now, leaving the ruins to become overgrown with bracken and brambles. Plenty to keep both inquisitive minds and Labrador noses busy!

We finished the day, thanks to a lucky break in the weather, with the short hike up Dunadd. This was the heart of the Kingdom of Dalriada, where the Kings of the Gaels placed their foot into a carved hollow in the bare rock during coronations. With incredible views in every direction, it’s a place that will never get old for me!

You can read more of Graeme Johncock’s stories and itineraries over on our site — including his latest travel guides, historical insights, and curious tales from across Scotland.

Would You Like to Read More?
Here are the latest members-only articles — thoughtful reads on quiet places, curious history, and stories from across Scotland 👇

👉 Inside Eagle Brae: The Quiet Highland Stay That Keeps Drawing People Back
👉 Who Built Scotland’s Most Bizarre Building — and Why?
👉 10 of Scotland’s Most Peaceful Beaches
👉 Skye’s Smallest Museum Honours Its Tallest Highlander
👉 Scotland by Bike: 10 of the Best Trails to Ride
👉 Scotland’s Greatest Rail Journeys (and Where They’ll Take You)
👉 Scotland’s Quietest Cabins, Bothies and Retreats
👉 Small Museums, Big Stories: The Unsung Curators Preserving Scotland’s Past
👉 Caerlaverock Castle: Scotland’s Only Triangular Fortress
👉 Brodick Castle: A Fortress of Power on the Isle of Arran
👉 What Was Scotland’s Most Impenetrable Castle?

👉 Join now to play daily - New quiz drops every day at midnight.

We’ve also had a full restock of books in the Hidden Scotland Shop. You can browse the full selection here — but be quick, they tend to go fast.

As a thank you for being on this email list, you can get 10% off today with the code SUNDAY10

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