Hi 👋

This week’s email takes you from the standing stones of Kilmartin Glen to the shores of Islay, where wintering geese fill the skies and the island settles into its quieter season. Graeme Johncock shares the final chapter of his touring year, travelling from ancient rock art and hilltop castles to the strongholds of the Lords of the Isles. There’s a look at Rhuroin, a peaceful Highland escape on Loch Shieldaig, and a beautifully observed feature on Islay’s autumn arrivals from wildlife guide David Dinsley.

You’ll find this week’s quiz, a new seasonal favourite from Edinburgh Honey Co., and an update on our 2026 Hidden Scotland Calendar, which is already proving popular ahead of the new year.

As always, a few discoveries, a few stories, and something special from the shop.

Have you got your 2026 Calendar?

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2026. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

Special Sunday Offer

Add our new Hidden Scotland 2026 Calendar to your order and enjoy £5 off as a seasonal thank-you. The calendar features twelve A4 photographic prints and is produced on premium matte stock, making it a beautiful addition to any wall.

Use code 2026 to redeem.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Scotland’s Quiet Season Begins

As November begins, Scotland’s tourist season ends with the majority of attractions, cafes, castle and accommodations closing their doors. Usually this is when I would start to take a little bit of time off from showing people around the country and rest before getting back out there to do some exploring for myself. However, I had one last tour to pack in before then!

That trip took me to two places that underlined an important point I love making, what I consider the essence of real Scottish adventures. You don’t always need to visit the big-name attractions or spend lots of money to enjoy your time here. Scotland is blessed with fascinating places and spectacular views that are just out in the open, waiting for you to find them.

The first place that reminded me of this was Kilmartin Glen, somewhere that I’ve visited plenty of times, but it never gets old. Well, actually it stays old – very, very old! The glen is absolutely packed with standing stones, burial cairns and strange, swirling rock art that stretches back thousands of years!

Not everybody is as fascinated by ancient history, but they’re bound to be impressed by a walk up to Carnasserie Castle. Even at this time of year, the door is left unlocked for visitors to wander the ruined hall and climb up to the top of the still sturdy tower. Once home to the first Protestant Bishop of the Isles, he certainly knew how to pick a good view.

From Kilmartin we were heading to Islay, somewhere that I haven’t been able to spend as much time in as I’d like. It’s famous for whisky, with 10 currently working distilleries and more on the way – the majority of them notable for their smoky flavour. However, there’s a lot more to find on this island than just a tasty dram!

This was the main base of the Lords of the Isles, chiefs of Clan MacDonald who controlled vast swathes of Scotland’s west coast. From Finlaggan on Islay, they held parliaments with chiefs of other clans, issued proclamations and granted land, just like a king would do. While the visitor centre was closed, walking around the ruins of Finlaggan is just as atmospheric regardless.

That might have been where all the administration took place, but the MacDonald stronghold on the island was at Dunyvaig Castle. It’s a crumbling ruin today, but it still clings dramatically onto a cliff above crashing waves in the south of Islay.

It was “blowing a hoolie” when I approached and it took more than a little effort to stay upright in the wind. Even the seals were taking shelter, with about a dozen bobbing around, keeping a watchful eye on me, apart from one diving for fish. That was all the inspiration I needed to go looking for some lunch.

There’s one place I was very happy hadn’t closed for the winter yet – The Islay Oyster Shed on the shore of Loch Gruinart. The oysters are grown in the water right beside the café and thankfully they had a cooked option for me. As much as I like to fit in with the locals, I’ll take lemon and breadcrumbs over raw oysters any day!

Written by Graeme Johncock

Edinburgh Honey Co. Gingerbread Infused Honey

Indulge in the festive charm of Edinburgh Honey Co.'s Gingerbread Infused Honey, a delightful 120g jar that captures the essence of the holiday season. Crafted in collaboration with Spice Kitchen, this exquisite honey blends Scottish Rapeseed Honey sourced from Longniddry with the warm, spicy notes of gingerbread.

Perfect for enhancing your Hot Toddies, cosy evening teas, or as a sweet touch in your baking, this honey is more than just a seasonal treat. With its rich pollen content, it also offers potential relief from hay fever, making it a thoughtful addition to your pantry. Embrace the warmth of Scottish sweetness and elevate your festive moments with this unique infusion.

Use code CHRISTMAS for 10% off today only.

Rhuroin

Rhuroin is a Highland self-catering holiday house, in a woodland setting on the shores of Loch Shieldaig. The house sits in an enviable position, with views to the iconic red roofed house, Inverbain Island and the Torridon mountains. It is set amongst mature Scots pine, rowan and birch trees, and a sheltered bay adjacent to the property is home to otters and herons. There is direct access to the water for wild swimmers and kayakers and space to store your kayak by the shore. A rough lawn runs down to the sea and at the right time of the year, pods of dolphins can be seen feeding in the loch.

Find out more here.

The Wintering Geese of Islay

Autumn is a season of change: leaves are shed, fires lit, fungi flourish, ghost stories are shared, and our skies buzz with migrating birds. Here in the Inner Hebrides, tens of thousands of geese journey back to us. Travelling from Greenland each year, these noisy birds make their annual pilgrimage back to the Isle of Islay, escaping the harsh winter of their arctic breeding grounds for a milder Hebridean one.

This seasonal surge of geese is a spectacle to behold, with wave after wave of them arriving around early October. Arriving from the north, with Mull to their rear, they begin their descent into the mouth of Loch Gruinart and on towards the head of the loch, where they arrive on the Gruinart flats. In a matter of just a few weeks, Loch Gruinart is completely transformed into a hive of noisy activity, as hundreds of geese become thousands, and a wall of sound envelops the landscape. Upon their arrival, the geese will congregate across the surrounding mudflats, salt marsh, and grasslands, using this part of the island as a meeting location to socialise and gather, before eventually spreading across Islay as winter progresses. Though high numbers of birds do remain around Gruinart throughout, Bridgend is also an important location with both of these sites situated on tidal sea lochs; they are used as key roost sites. Thousands of geese roost together on the loch, mudflats and salt marsh for safety.

The two key species we have as wintering tenants are the Barnacle Geese, and to a lesser extent the Greenland White-fronted Goose. Both very different looking species of geese, but equally as charismatic. In recent years, around 30,000 Barnacle Geese and 5,500 Greenland White- fronted spent the winter on Islay. Their calls provide an indicative soundtrack to winter on the Queen of the Hebrides. 

Barnacle Geese are unmistakable in their pied appearance; they have a distinctive black neck, head and breast, silvery belly, and sport a creamy- white face. These are by far the most numerous goose and are easily seen from the roadsides as they graze on the grasslands, foraging for leafy grasses. You’d be hard pressed to visit Islay during the winter months and not see several hundred of these birds without even trying - approximately 60 per cent of the Greenland population of Barnacle Geese spend the winter with us on Islay.

My particular favourite is the Greenland White- fronted Goose, a gorgeous dark brown bird with white under-tail feathers and black blotches or ‘tiger stripes’ on the belly of the adults; these markings being unique to each individual bird, much like a fingerprint to us. Other more distinctive features are their bright-orange legs and bill, and the classic white on the forehead of adults, giving them their namesake attribute. White-fronted Geese tend to socialise in family groups, and prefer peatland and damp meadow habitats, something we have in spades out here. Unlike the more numerous Barnacle Goose, the white-fronts don’t roost on sea lochs and salt marsh, instead choosing to roost on the bog pools of local moorland and peatland.

So why do so many geese come to Islay?

Islay has an oceanic climate and doesn’t sit very high above sea level, and so has an abundance of grassland, arable land, stubble, fen, and large areas of estuarine and salt marsh habitats on the lower ground, providing perfect conditions for foraging and roosting geese. Nature reserves such as RSPB The Oa, and in particular RSPB Loch Gruinart manage large areas of their grassland and wet meadow habitat to provide feeding grounds for the geese throughout the winter - Gruinart being an internationally import wintering site for both of these species. An area of wet grassland features known as ‘the Gruinart flats’ is vitally important for feeding geese and wading birds. Huge numbers can easily be seen from the road that goes through this location and it’s well worth stopping in one of the many lay-bys to soak in the wildfowl ambience with stunning views. 

We are also joined by Greylags, Brent Geese, and the occasional Pink-footed Geese. Most years, the occasional rarer vagrants are recorded, species including Red-breasted Geese, Todd’s Canada Geese, Lesser White-Fronted Geese, and Cackling Geese; caught up in the flocks of Barnacles and White-fronts as they travelled south on their migration. Trying to pick out these odd rarities amongst a sea of several hundred other geese isn’t always a picnic, but a challenge that the wintering twitchers are always geared up for.

In recent years, the abundance of so many geese hasn’t gone unnoticed. White-tailed Eagles, the largest raptor in the UK, have rapidly learnt to take advantage of this bountiful food source. These massive birds of prey now gather in larger numbers than ever before and annually set their sights on this wintertime feast. It’s no surprise that White-tailed Eagles from across Scotland make their return to Islay to take advantage of such prey availability. For the younger eagles that join us, this is an excellent opportunity to practice and hone their hunting skills whilst food opportunities are so fruitful. The drama of an eagle hunt is an incredibly exciting event, the goose flock exploding into the sky in an adrenaline-fuelled cacophony of noisy wing beats and frantic vocalisations, with massive eagles cutting through the flock to grab an unfortunate victim. 

If you’re on Islay between October and April and you want to savour something that isn’t served in drams, then you have to experience the sight and sound of thousands of overwintering geese. A nature spectacle up there with some of the best, and right here in Scotland.

Words & photography by David Dinsley

To read the full article click here.

Gift the Limited Christmas Edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine

Gift the Limited Christmas Edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine with a parcel that feels special the moment it arrives.

Gift the new Hidden Scotland Magazine – Issue 11 this Christmas. Each copy arrives beautifully hand-wrapped in bespoke paper designed by Scottish illustrator Joy Nevada, ready to place under the tree.

Inside, the magazine is accompanied by a collectable A5 art print of the front cover image and a Hidden Scotland bookmark, all presented in our custom Hidden Scotland box. You can send it directly to the recipient or have it delivered to you for gifting in person.

P.S. Our Christmas Gift Box has now sold out, though there’s still a great selection of festive gifts available. You can browse the full range here and use the code CHRISTMAS for 10% off your order.

Quiz Answers

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!