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This week’s Hidden Scotland Weekly begins with a moment that reshaped the country. On 3 August 1305, William Wallace was captured near Glasgow. After years of resistance, it was betrayal that brought him down. His execution was meant to send a message, but it became something else entirely. A turning point in a much longer struggle.

We’re also looking back to 1263, when a storm off the Ayrshire coast helped tip the balance in Scotland’s favour. King Haakon of Norway arrived with a vast fleet, but the weather and the timing worked against him. The Battle of Largs did not settle everything, but it ended centuries of Norse control in the west.

Graeme Johncock is back this week with stories from Cupar and Roxburgh. Both places are easy to miss on the map, but each carries a long, royal history.

We’ve also shared a new feature on Lochview, a quiet retreat on Skye with wide views over Loch Dunvegan, a sauna and hot tub tucked into the trees, and space for four. For those travelling in a larger group, it sits just next door to Tigh an Tobair.

And for the first time, the full Hidden Scotland Magazine archive is now available to read online for Hidden Scotland members. Every issue from the very beginning is included. That means hundreds of pages filled with travel features, long-form stories, interviews, and local recommendations from all over Scotland. If you’ve never had the chance to read them all, now’s the time. Every edition is there to browse at your own pace, included with membership.

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In the early 13th century, much of western Scotland and the Hebrides was under the control of the Kingdom of Norway. Evidence of this long chapter of Viking history is still evident in modern day place names. But in 1263, the King of Scots Alexander III decided it was time to claim this part of Scotland back.

King Haakon of Norway was happy with things just the way they were. It might be a long way from his throne, but he wasn’t willing to let this territory go without a fight. Haakon sailed around the north of Scotland and into the Firth of Clyde with an enormous fleet in a clear demonstration of strength. There the Norwegian King waited to deal with the King of Scots, just off the coast of Ayrshire.

Alexander could clearly see he didn’t have enough men to defeat the battle-hardened Norsemen. When it came to negotiations, he was in no position to be making any demands. The King of Scots delayed the talks again and again, giving time for his army to slowly coming together further inland. He knew that it was late in the year and so storm clouds were gathering along with the Scots.

King Haakon had finally had enough, and it looked as if the Norwegians were going to be released to cause havoc on the Scottish mainland. Then Alexander got what he had been praying for, a fierce autumn storm whipped across the water. Norwegian ships were torn from their anchors, smashed to pieces and washed up on the beach at Largs.

When a small force of the Norwegians landed to try and repair the damaged ships, Alexander sprung his trap. The Scottish army swarmed towards the beach to meet the invaders. The Battle of Largs was fierce, the Norwegians might have been battered by the storm, but they weren’t beaten yet.

Both sides fought each other to a standstill, neither able to gain the upper hand. When the battle died down and the armies withdrew, Haakon was forced to retreat with his remaining ships all the way back to Orkney.

The King of Norway died there that winter, along with his hopes of holding on to western Scotland. His successor would officially sign any claim he had over to King Alexander. The Battle of Largs might not have seemed like an overwhelming victory, but it had changed the course of Scottish history.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

If you happened to read my monthly roundup for June, then you’ll know that I recently got married. That meant half of the last month was taken up with a Honeymoon (it’s a hard life, I know), so there wasn’t as much time for exploring Scotland as usual. 

So, as I eased back into normal life, I decided to focus on exploring my local area. At first glance, there’s nothing too special about the wee town of Cupar in Fife, but don’t be too quick to judge a book by its cover. For centuries, this was the main town in the entire region, sitting at an important crossroads between Edinburgh, St Andrews, Perth and Dundee. 

While the castle was destroyed long ago, it was once the main seat of Clan MacDuff and played host to numerous kings and queens. In fact, Margaret the first wife of Alexander III even died there in the 13th century! 

The oldest still standing building in Cupar is the old church tower, dating from 1415 and there’s one stone in the graveyard with a very interesting story. Two heads and a hand are carved onto the grave marker, representing the parts of three Covenanters buried beneath. These men were killed for their religious beliefs in the 1600s and interred here, in the main legal seat in Fife, as a warning. 

In my opinion, no visit to Cupar is complete without a short trip up to Hill of Tarvit Mansionhouse. Built in the early 1900s by the wealthy Sharp family, it’s become a regular dog-walking spot for me and Molly. Inside, the house is incredible, like a scaled down version of the Downton Abbey set. 

Out in the grounds, the view from the top of the hill stretches for miles as well as garden paths and woodland trails for those not feeling too energetic. There’s even an old hickory golf course available to play, although I’m truly terrible at the sport! 

I did manage to get out of Fife at least once though in July, heading down to the Borders to find stories around the town of Kelso. This busy market town is centred around the ruins of Kelso Abbey, but there’s a huge part of Scottish history here that often goes undetected by visitors. 

Before the modern town of Kelso existed, one of Scotland’s most important royal burghs lay here – Roxburgh. It’s now entirely disappeared, beneath a field used for showjumping, but you can still see parts of the old castle. Sitting on a small hill, wedged between the rivers Tweed and Teviot, this fortress was pivotal in the Scottish Wars of Independence. 

It was the location of the royal mint, birthplace of Alexander III and passed back and forward between the Scots and English as each side tried to hold onto the castle. In 1460, James II was killed trying to re-take Roxburgh and it was subsequently destroyed so it could never be held against the Scots again. 

Wandering around the sparse ruins of what was once such an important place is a humbling experience. You need a lot of imagination to see Roxburgh as it once was and so it’s not the kind of place everybody would appreciate. For me though, it’s somewhere special that comes alive thanks to the stories it has to tell.

You can read more of Graeme Johncock’s stories and itineraries over on our site — including his latest travel guides, historical insights, and curious tales from across Scotland.

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On This Day in 1305: The Capture of William Wallace Shook Scotland

He’d been hunted for years. After Falkirk, after the burnings and the retreats, after the last safe doors closed behind him, William Wallace was still moving across the land, still refusing to kneel. On 3 August 1305, it ended in a quiet spot near Glasgow. Robroyston. A name not many remember, but it was there he was taken. Not by force, but by betrayal. John de Menteith, a fellow Scot, handed him over to the English.

Wallace had led a fight few believed could be won. Stirling Bridge was his moment. Two thousand English dead, pushed back by tactics they hadn’t expected. He’d been made Guardian of Scotland after that. Not king, not even noble by birth, but something else. A symbol. When the tide turned and the nobles made their peace with Edward, Wallace didn’t. That’s what sealed it.

They dragged him south, across the border, bound like a criminal. In London, they gave him no defence. Treason, murder, war. He denied none of it, only the charge of treason. He said he owed Edward no loyalty. They executed him slowly, publicly, in parts. It was meant to scare others off.

It didn’t. It did the opposite.

Read the full story here.

Lochview, Isle of Skye

Set just above Loch Dunvegan on the Isle of Skye, Lochview is a quiet, design-led retreat for four.

Floor-to-ceiling windows look west across the water toward the Outer Hebrides. Inside, you’ll find a warm, open space finished in soft tones, with a wood-burning stove at its centre and two ensuite bedrooms designed for rest. The kitchen is well equipped and the living area invites slow mornings and longer evenings. Outside, a wood-fired hot tub and sauna sit tucked beneath the trees, with a firepit nearby and seating that makes the most of the view. The Three Chimneys is just down the hill and Dunvegan Castle is a short drive away. For those travelling with family or in a larger group, Lochview sits next door to Tigh an Tobair, which sleeps eight and shares the same peaceful outlook. Both places are set apart, but close enough to stay connected.

Find out more here.

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