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This week’s email heads north to the cliffs, caves and quiet beaches around Durness, where Graeme Johncock continues his journey along Scotland’s far edge. You’ll find history, folklore and a few surprises woven through this rugged stretch of coast, along with a beautifully told story from photographer Virginie Chabrol on an icy morning atop Goatfell.

With Christmas now in full swing and the last posting dates approaching, we’ve gathered a small selection of Scottish-made gifts from the shop to help with your festive planning. Thoughtful pieces, well crafted, with plenty still available if you’re ticking off a list this weekend.

If you’d like more Scotland delivered to your door, you can subscribe to Hidden Scotland Magazine. Subscribers receive each issue first, along with a free print and bookmark, and can now view a PDF version of Issue 11 through our new digital subscription.

Glencoe Lochan - A Canadian Love Letter

Many people view Glencoe as only a place to stop briefly and marvel at the iconic Three Sisters while passing through. They might think that walking here is only for those adventurous hikers heading up to Bidean nam Bian or the Pap of Glencoe. Fortunately, there’s another option. A gentle stroll for all abilities and with a tender love story behind it.

Amidst the landscape of soaring mountains and heather, the serene Glencoe Lochan is a welcome change. If the woodland walk feels a little out of place in this area of the Highlands, then that’s because it is. This entire area was created as a little slice of Canada by Lord Strathcona in the 1890s. 

Born in Forres, Donald Alexander Smith didn’t start off life with a silver spoon in his mouth. His father worked as a saddler, but Donald was lucky enough to benefit from a school education. After being offered an apprenticeship as a lawyer, the young man looked set for an ordinary, respectful life. That was until his uncle, the explorer John Stuart, returned to Scotland from Canada and filled the boy’s head with wild stories of adventure. 

Aged 18, Donald set off across the ocean to make his fortune with the Hudson’s Bay Company. There he met the beautiful, free-spirited Isabella Hardisty. The pair were immediately drawn to each other but there was a problem. Isabella already had a son with another man and Donald wasn’t somebody who would welcome a scandal. In the end, even this figure of respectability couldn’t ignore his heart. 

Donald took in Isabella’s son as his own and the couple were soon married with another child of their own. Over the years, he rose through the ranks in the company, becoming incredibly wealthy in the process. He even made a name in politics and from his humble beginnings, Donald was created Baron Strathcona and owner of Glencoe Estate. 

Donald built Glencoe House and moved back to Scotland with his family. The couple loved each other dearly but the new Lady Strathcona loved one thing above all others, her Canadian homeland. Even amongst the majestic beauty of Glencoe, with her husband at her side, she longed to see the trees and lakes of Canada again. 

Donald was crushed to see the love of his life so unhappy in Scotland. Instead of simply moving his family back to Canada, he tried his best to bring Canada to them. In a grand romantic gesture, Lord Strathcona created the beautiful scenery around Glencoe Lochan, planting the area with trees shipped over from British Columbia. 

Sadly, Donald’s efforts were in vain. Even this picturesque landscape wasn’t enough to cure Isabella’s homesickness. Before long the couple left Glencoe, heading back to the Canadian mountains. It may not have been enough to convince Lady Strathcona to stay but today this Canadian love letter is a perfect alternative to the more strenuous routes in the area. 

Walkers can take their pick from three routes either around Glencoe Lochan, through the soaring woodland, or a steeper path up the hillside.

words // Graeme Johncock - photography // Daniel Casson

Have you got your 2026 Calendar?

We are delighted to be back with our wall calendar for 2026. Enjoy a selection of stunning photography that captures some of Scotland's best bits throughout the year.

The A3 landscape wall calendar is printed on a beautiful matt art paper stock that makes the images really stand out. The landscape layout allows for an A4 image on one side, which can be utilised as a print afterwards.

As well as a square for each day for you to add those all important events and special dates you have coming up in the new year. There is also a notes section for any additional information you need to jot down for that month.

Special Sunday Offer

Add our new Hidden Scotland 2026 Calendar to your order and enjoy £5 off as a seasonal thank-you. The calendar features twelve A4 photographic prints and is produced on premium matte stock, making it a beautiful addition to any wall.

Use code 2026 to redeem.

Graeme Johncock, the travel blogger and storyteller behind Scotland's Stories, is now bringing his adventures to us in a weekly column. He will journal about his explorations around Scotland, sharing fascinating stories and highlighting unique places to visit. Accompanied by his dog Molly, Graeme continues to uncover and share the rich history and beauty of Scotland.

Driving Scotland’s North Coast

In recent years, the north of Scotland has had a lot more attention thanks to the North Coast 500, but the coastline between Durness and Thurso often gets rushed along. It’s somewhere packed with history and folklore in some of the most beautiful surroundings – all things I like to focus on when travelling!

It doesn’t matter which direction you go, there’s a lot see between point A and B on Scotland’s north coast.

Balnakeil Church

Starting almost in the very northwestern corner of the mainland, Balnakeil is just a short hop from the village of Durness. Beside a beautiful sandy beach, you’ll find the ruins of an old church that’s home to two very different men.

An obelisk remembers Rob Donn Mackay, a poet, a cowherd, a poacher turned gamekeeper and somebody who stood up for social justice! Although illiterate, his words are an incredible commentary on the turbulent 18^th century Highlands, thankfully written down by the local minister’s daughter.

Inside the church you’ll find a stone marking the resting place of a much less respected character. Duncan MacMorrach, known as MacMurdo, was a dangerous enforcer for the local Mackay Lairds and somebody you didn’t want to cross, otherwise you might disappear…

Smoo Cave
10 minute drive

One of the most spectacular sights anywhere in Scotland, Smoo Cave is an impressive natural wonder. This enormous cavern hasn’t just been formed by the waves crashing into the cliff, but by a river that pours through a hole in the top too! On most days, once inside, you can follow a walkway to get pretty close to the crashing waterfall.

This place is packed with legends, from the murderous MacMurdo disposing of bodies down the hole to the evil Wizard of Reay – a former resident of the cave. It doesn’t take long to walk around, but you can see why a place like this is firmly rooted in local folklore!

Ceannabeinne Village Ruins
5 minute drive

There’s only a small parking lane and it’s easy to miss, but the ruins of Ceannabeinne Township are well worth taking the time to explore. In 1841, this was a busy community of 50 people but by 1842, it was entirely abandoned.

Follow the trail around the information boards and learn how the local families fought against their forced evictions. It was part of the brutal Highland Clearances, with landowners more interested in profit than in people. The residents may have lost their battle, but their plight soon brought around lasting change!

Ceannabeinne Beach
2 minute drive

Just below the township, but accessed from another car park, Ceannabeinne Beach is one of the best examples of the many stunning beaches on the north coast. It’s a bit of a hike down, but worth it if you have the energy to get back up. If the weather is good, thrillseekers can even zipline across the beach from the cliffs on either side!

Loch Eriboll Viewpoint
30 minute drive

The scenery as you drive around Loch Eriboll is breathtaking and it’s well worth stopping at the viewpoint to take it all in. It’s been used as a natural harbour for centuries, including by King Haakon’s Norwegian fleet on its way to the Battle of Largs.

It became important during WWII, with bombers using the islands to practice their operations and later seeing the surrender of 33 Nazi U-boats! 

Lunch At Norse Bakehouse
30 minute drive

Delicious food with a beautiful view, sit outside if the weather is good enough and enjoy one of their delicious focaccia sandwiches!

Castle Varrich
5 minute drive

This is clan Mackay territory and the chief’s old tower keeps watch at the top of a hill above the village of Tongue. It’s a very small ruin and takes around an hour round trip to walk to, but the sweeping views from the top of the walkway inside make it worthwhile if you have the time.

Strathnaver Museum
30 minute drive

Found in the old church at Bettyhill, the Strathnaver Museum is packed with local history and one of my big highlights from the entire north coast. While there’s history stretching back thousands of years, including a Pictish stone in the graveyard, there’s a strong emphasis on the Highland Clearances.

One of the most poignant items in the collection is also probably the largest - the church pulpit where the minister was forced to read the eviction notices. Hundreds of people gazed at this very structure when they heard the news that flipped their world upside down!

Forsinard Flows
45 minute drive

As you head east, you’re leaving the mountains behind and entering the Flow Country. While it’s a bit of a detour, the vast peat bog is best seen from the tower built at Forsinard Flows.

Take in the vast landscape from here and keep your ears and eyes open for the wide variety of birds that call this place home, but make sure to get back across the walkway before sunset – you don’t want to risk stepping in the bog on your way back to the car!

Written by Graeme Johncock To check out more of Graeme’s Scottish Itinearies, click here.

Visiting the Isle of Skye in 2026?

Welcome to Hidden Scotland’s guide to the extraordinary Isle of Skye. Many islands around Europe can claim to be blessed with grand scenery, but precious few can match the raw, elemental drama of Skye. Craggy slopes and muscular headlands stretch across the map like works in some gargantuan open-air gallery, while a glimmering array of lochs, burns and white-sand bays offset the towering geology. 

The island is no pocket-sized retreat. Covering more than 1,650 square kilometres, it stands as a realm of its own, a land where eagles soar, skies brood and single-track roads snake off into the distance. As a cultural destination, meanwhile, it’s vibrantly alive, with a string of historical settlements and a population of some 12,000. Among these locals runs a rich vein of creativity and a long tradition of producing artists, musicians and makers – indeed, spend long enough among Skye’s cloud-snagged mountains and wave-bashed peninsulas and it’s hard not to feel inspired yourself.    

The following pages are your guide to making the most of the island (as well as its far smaller but similarly lovely sister island, Raasay). In your hands you’ll find an overview of the best places to stay, the best things to do, the best locations to visit and the best spots to eat and drink.

As you’ll no doubt be aware, visitor numbers here can be high in peak season. With this in mind, we’ve also made an effort to spotlight a whole host of lesser-known attractions, championing the places and people that truly make Skye what it is. It’s somewhere to explore at length, a destination where the choicest rewards are often found in the quietest, most unexpected places – and we hope this guide allows you to enjoy this very special island to the full.

Use code CHRISTMAS for 10% off today only.

The Lodge at Dun Aluinn

Dun Aluinn is a striking Queen Anne-style house, carefully restored and reimagined as a contemporary, design-led retreat while preserving its original period detailing. Grand proportions, ornate plasterwork and polished wood floors set the tone, offset by a curated collection of modern furnishings including a tangerine Patricia Urquiola sofa and a 5.5-metre bronze dining table, custom-made to seat twenty guests. The interior palette leans into inky blues, warm neutrals and tactile materials, with handpicked artworks and textures layered throughout. Despite the scale and elegance, the mood is intimate. Roaring fires, soft throws and long valley views lend the house a warmth that’s immediate and quietly immersive.

Find out more here.

Behind the Lens with Virginie Chabrol

Photographer Virginie Chabrol shares the story behind one of her most striking images, captured during a summit camp on Goatfell, the highest peak on Arran. Braving freezing winds and heavy mist, she found the perfect moment in fleeting conditions—when a figure emerged from the fog and brought the scene to life

Arran is said to be Scotland in miniature. It is crossed by the Highland Boundary Fault and, like the mainland, is divided between flat and fertile areas and mountainous landscapes. This was my first visit to the isle, despite several years spent in Scotland and its proximity to my adopted home town of Glasgow. Yet, I had felt compelled to explore the tumultuous slopes and rocky ridges of the Goatfell range since I had seen a photo taken from its highest peak. 

It was in autumn. James – my partner and fellow photographer – and I knew that rain was coming but according to the weather forecast we had a clear window of a few days. We took our chances. Our plan was to climb Goatfell and to camp on its summit to make the most of the light. 

Goatfell was hidden in the clouds when our ferry reached Arran and the weather did not improve during our walk up the mountain. We pitched our tent in a sea of thick clouds and hoped for the best. At least, it was not raining... 

Little did we know that we would wake up in a frosted ice world! Outside the tent, the rocks scattered on the summit were all covered with rime ice drawing delicate feather-like patterns. No need to say the views had not improved. Were they even getting worse? It was hard to say as we could barely see a few metres away. 

The cold and the wind were biting, but the atmosphere was magical and so we quickly began wandering around, exploring the summit draped in its new frozen coat. James and I quickly lost sight of each other as often happens when photographing. The landscape was totally alien – a photographer’s dream – so we had to make the most it. 

I kept shooting – interesting details and shapes, disappearing paths, icy boulders emerging from the mist... but even if the conditions were incredible I knew I was missing something. The mountain was lost in the clouds and everything was in the same shades of greys and whites. Without any element to give depth and scale, it was hard to make sense of it all, photographically. 

Then James appeared from nowhere – a shadow moving in the fog - and it all clicked perfectly. The boulders next to me, the human barely visible, the greyness of it all... I could tell the story of the eeriness of the moment in one single frame. 

When shooting personal projects and stories, I don’t like staging my photos as it feels like I lose spontaneity. Sometimes, though, I will ask people to stay where they are when I can see I could use a little bit more time to get the photo I want. The wind and the lack of visibility made it impossible in this case and I only had time to shoot a few frames before James disappeared again. Yet, I was lucky it was enough time to get what I knew would be the photo revealing our experience.

Words & photography by Virginie Chabrol

Want to share your photograph and stories? reply to this email with your ideas.

To read the full article click here.

Gift the Limited Christmas Edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine

Gift the Limited Christmas Edition of Hidden Scotland Magazine with a parcel that feels special the moment it arrives.

Gift the new Hidden Scotland Magazine – Issue 11 this Christmas. Each copy arrives beautifully hand-wrapped in bespoke paper designed by Scottish illustrator Joy Nevada, ready to place under the tree.

Inside, the magazine is accompanied by a collectable A5 art print of the front cover image and a Hidden Scotland bookmark, all presented in our custom Hidden Scotland box. You can send it directly to the recipient or have it delivered to you for gifting in person.

P.S. Our Christmas Gift Box has now sold out, though there’s still a great selection of festive gifts available. You can browse the full range here and use the code CHRISTMAS for 10% off your order.

Quiz Answers

Issue 11 Sponsors

It is with great pleasure that we introduce you to the sponsors of Issue 10.
We invite you to learn more about them by clicking their logo.

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!

If you would like to email us about any suggestions or feedback please email [email protected] with the subject feedback. Thanks!